new rig quesitons

hboy1

Active Member
Can anyone tell me what the red circled switch controls in the UDS? It's in a Road Warrior 355.

Also, in the garage where the ramp door opens, on one corner of the ceiling there is motor (I believe that operates the power beds), on the other corner there are some wires hanging down. The camper has a back up camera prep (furrion system I believe). I'm wondering if these wires are part of the back up camera prep.?

Our camper has the 3 season patio door option. If you have the patio door, should it also come with the pull down screen, or is it one option or the other?

And lastly, With the yeti package, there is a switch labeled Yeti Package. Then below that switch closer to the floor is 2 unlabeled switches. I've read about the red switch on this forum. The other is a 3 stage switch next to the red switch. Are all these switches part of the tank heater system?

Any one in the know, I'm grateful for your help.
udc.jpg
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi hboy1,

It's a little hard to make out the switch in the UDC picture, but if it's a small rocker switch, it's probably a 2nd switch for the water pump, so you can winterize without going back and forth into the coach.

The 3-stage switch is probably the air conditioning power routing switch. The position determines which 2 of the 3 air conditioners can be run at any one time.
 

hboy1

Active Member
Hi hboy1,

The 3-stage switch is probably the air conditioning power routing switch. The position determines which 2 of the 3 air conditioners can be run at any one time.

Interesting. It's weird because this 3 stage switch (looks more like a residential light switch) is located about 1-2 feet above the floor. The rig does have 3 a/c units.

Thank you.
 

Treyz71

Member
I have a RW 355 and hboy1 is on the money. The switch in the UDC is for the water pump to help when winterizing. The inside, three position switch is to toggle between the bedroom and living room air conditioners.
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
I have a RW 355 and hboy1 is on the money. The switch in the UDC is for the water pump to help when winterizing. The inside, three position switch is to toggle between the bedroom and living room air conditioners.

For those of us that dry camp most of the time, having that switch in the UDC would be great for using the outdoor shower and not having to run inside to to the pump on/off.
 

Shortest Straw

Caught In A Mosh
For those of us that dry camp most of the time, having that switch in the UDC would be great for using the outdoor shower and not having to run inside to to the pump on/off.



I agree! If anyone has done something like this I hope they chime in with parts and what-to-do with them.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I agree! If anyone has done something like this I hope they chime in with parts and what-to-do with them.

I haven't done it, but have looked at the wiring on another coach. You need to replace the inside switch with a 3-way rocker and install a 3-way rocker in the UDC. The wiring is shown in the upper left corner of the attached diagram.

A 3-way rocker just has 3 terminals on the back instead of 2.
 

Attachments

  • Control Panel Wiring.pdf
    14.3 KB · Views: 50

Shortest Straw

Caught In A Mosh
So really you just wire it up like you would a light in your s&b that is on 2 switches? There needs to be a carrier wire between the two switches?
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
So really you just wire it up like you would a light in your s&b that is on 2 switches? There needs to be a carrier
wire between the two switches?

Three way switch. Both switches must be ON/ON not ON/OFF that is currently used in your 5er. IN is +12V and OUT is to you device (light, motor, etc.) Switches must be derated for the current draw. Should be derated to 75% of the switches rated DC or AC which ever is applicable. Current rating of 10A the derated is 7A for 5A it is 3.75A max, etc. Every time a switch is thrown with a load the contacts arc. To get reliable long life from the switches they need to be derated.

ON:ON 3-WAY Switchs.jpg
 

BAT

Member
This is an old thread so I'm thinking that you figure your last question out but if not, the 3 position switch is for selecting which AC is powered. Up is the Main AC the middle is off and the bottom is for the Bedroom AC
 
I bought a 2015 RW 305 in April 2016. The walk through was terrible. In another RW section I read about batteries not lasting when dry camping. On our first trip we have had to pull the batt. Every day to charge.
I did not know the switch in this area was a three way, so I'll have to,check that.
I just purchased a TST monitoring system and a set of G614 Goodyear tires, but the tire shop says I need new rims. He has not seen my aluminium rims and I don't know how to check the rim for a code to tell me. I also read that the factory is installing G rated tires as of 2016, but I still have the junk. My previous trailer had the same tires & wheels, which I ended up having to change after a short, unloaded, trip down hwy 101. We were short of our destination by three hours, and the local dealer could not get to us for evalueation for three weeks. Turned out the equalizer,springs,hardware was all bad destroying the new 10ply tires. We spent over 2200.00 on parts and I installed everything in an RV park.
Any suggestions on the rims stock on these rigs? Do I need steel rims? The Goodyears are rated at 110 psi, but I read the factory is installing the G rated on new rigs. Any change in rims?
we have a switch between the main sw panel and the TV, which we figured out was for one of the vent cieling fans. Why only one fan?
Also I was wondering if there was a ladder for the bunk bed and a pole for opening the vents?
We found another sw in the cargo area, right side, next to the jack system. It appears to be a redundent switch for the right side light cargo light.
I had also seen that one of the folks here installed a very well done multiple 6volt batt system retaining the sealed compartment. I loved what was done, but not sure I have that kind of room. I may have to stack the system but with a 4 way marine hi amp rated switch will be the only way to dry camp successfully.
On my 2013 Evergreen I had also added 40 gallon propane tanks and it was a smaller rig.
As a toy hauler I was disappointed that the 40 gallon fresh water and 17 gallon gas for gen set and toys. Yet there are two gray water tanks and one black water tank.
Guess I still have a lot to learn about this Heartland. For the price tag I don't care for the foe leather. It is very thin and we destroyed it on the first trip. Are there any companies that make covers for this Lane RV furniture? Alternatives at furniture stores are quite expensive and generally heavier.
thanks for any help or referral to a previous thread I might have missed.
 
I just received my G rated Goodyear tires suggested on this forum and found out that they are LT tires! Whats up? ST has stiffer side walls for trailer vertical loading. Are we into future problems with thes softer side walls on aluminum rims rated for 10 ply e rated 80 psi tires?
what is the factory installing at this time? If these are the wrong tires, anybody want a set of G614's?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I just received my G rated Goodyear tires suggested on this forum and found out that they are LT tires! Whats up? ST has stiffer side walls for trailer vertical loading. Are we into future problems with thes softer side walls on aluminum rims rated for 10 ply e rated 80 psi tires?
what is the factory installing at this time? If these are the wrong tires, anybody want a set of G614's?
Goodyear G614 tires are designed and marketed specifically for trailer applications and have steel belts running from bead to bead. The LT designation indicates they have also been tested to the more stringent requirements for vehicles that carry passengers.
 
Goodyear G614 tires are designed and marketed specifically for trailer applications and have steel belts running from bead to bead. The LT designation indicates they have also been tested to the more stringent requirements for vehicles that carry passengers.
Thank you. The trailer tire web site did say that designation LT after the size was approved for trailer, but LT listed before size was vehicle only.
Does not make sense to me. Still, the local tire shop won't install the tires on rims not specifically marked for Heavier weight, higher air pressures.
The tire shop says they have to see the rims first. Another post here indicated his aluminum rims were cracking. Appreciate the response. I'll keep investigating the rim designation. I may just go ahead with steel 8 spoke.
This is all money I am spending on a new rig I shouldn't have to just to get safely down the road, or camp dry longer than 12 hours.
I love the rig, but the shine left after the third trip for warranty work with more scheduled.
 
danemayer, I just went to another marine trailer tire site and they explained the "LT" disignation much better. The location of the LT is simply a different designator for the same heavey or reserve load for trucks and trailers. Appreciate the info and flad I checked further.
Rims next...
 

danemayer

Well-known member
The G614 tire has a max cold inflation of 110 psi stamped on the sidewall. The rim has to match. Most rims have the max psi/max load stamped on the inside surface that you can see from under the trailer. Look for either 110 psi or 3750 lbs.
 

Bones

Well-known member
IMG_20150330_202027.jpg
Your rims should have something stamped in them similar to how this is stamped. I don't have a picture of the weight and PSI but it will state it.
 

hboy1

Active Member
I see your issue is a month old, but how'd your tires work out?

The tires that came on our RW355 are H rated 125psi Goodyear tires.
 
Top