View Full Version : Happijac-bunks-UtVs and modifications

06-13-2016, 06:01 PM
I just purchased a Honda Pioneer 700-4. I had done much research and knew that there was not enough head clearance for the roll cage and had planned to either remove the cage when transporting or have the cage modified. I was not looking forward to either. My happijack system has the lift braces under the lower bunk that are about 4 inches wide. This was fine for the two Honda quads but a problem for the Pioneer.

I called Happijac this morning to see if smaller brackets were available. They are not, but I found out that they are about a month away from a new bracket for the lower bunk that will allow the bunk/seat to be flipped up or down (I don't know which) and stored on the side of the garage. This opens the clearance to 80" from floor to the bottom of the top bunk. Boy am I anxious to get this mod. I also found that I can remove the bunk/seats to load the Pioneer and reinstall after unloading. I don't like that method as much but either keeps me from having to remove the roll cage and drop it for transport.

I will report as the mod progresses.

I tried to edit the photo and could not get it done so I then tried to delete and could not get that done either so it stays sideways.

06-13-2016, 06:40 PM
Let us know when the folding brackets come out. I would be interested unless they are higher than a cats back.

06-13-2016, 06:48 PM
Will do.

06-13-2016, 10:43 PM
Interesting. My pioneer 1000 has at least 5-6" of clearance on the bottom of my bunks on my road warrior. Wouldn't think there is a difference.

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06-15-2016, 07:41 PM
You don't have any info as to what rig you have. I see it is a Warrior but what year? later years Cyclones have a different brace that holds the lower bunk. The roll cage on my Pioneer is 76" at the highest point. If you have two bunks I would be interested in knowing what floor to bottom of the bottom bunk measure at. With the bottom bunk out of the picture I would have 80" to the bottom of the top bunk.

Does your Warrior have double bunks and does the bottom bunk turn into seating for the table that then goes between? Maybe a different design but I would be interested in knowing.

Out of curiosity, I pulled up different Warrior floor plans. Not even close to my Cyclone.

06-15-2016, 09:45 PM
I have a 2014 road warrior RW415. It has the double bunks. If I remember correctly it has 86" to the bottom bunk. The road warriors are basically a cyclone with less options and different colors.

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06-16-2016, 12:11 PM
Not saying you do not. I am saying that yours and mine are not the same floor design and the difference of three years probably makes a difference in garages. I have 74" to the bottom bunk, if the 4" bunk supports were not in the way and they are, so I have 70" of clearance to get a 78" roll cage in. I am sure that Heartland heard from UTV owners and made some adjustments. The clearance I have was fine for my two Honda quads but when UTVs started becoming more popular that clearance was not enough. Also I am guessing that since the number on yours is 415 that it is somewhere near 41 feet long and has a 12 foot garage. I could not find that model listed anywhere to check. I am 35 feet long with a 10 foot garage. Apples and Oranges.

06-16-2016, 12:21 PM
Gotcha. I didn't know your year and model. I thought the difference might be in 700 vs 1000 cage height which would have been more curious to me. Anyways, carry on. [emoji1303]

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07-12-2017, 07:48 PM
Post to re-open

07-12-2017, 08:02 PM
OK, so long story but after a year of tracking this mod I found that it is still in the works and no future date for happening, however there is another mod that will allow what I am looking for and the parts total about $420 through Happijac. I have been emailing with them and this mod involves changing out parts of the trolley and some new lower brackets for the bottom bunk/bench. My contact has been Gary Scothern at Happijac in Utah but I do have a parts list and cost if someone is interested and wants to PM me.

I tried to load the video of how this works and it will not let me load that large of a file. Basically this allows the lower bunk to fold down against the garage wall. The top bunk does not change.

07-12-2017, 09:45 PM
I tried to load the video of how this works and it will not let me load that large of a file. .
You could upload your video to Youtube and then provide a link.


07-13-2017, 10:23 AM

Here is the video sent to me by Happijac. Let me know if you cannot open it.

07-18-2017, 12:26 AM
This would be awesome for me! My Ranger cage bumps the support braces of the lower bunk. I would like to lift my ranger but not an option unless I can modify the bunks!



I have a 2015 Road Warrior RW348 and it's 75" from floor to bottom of the support braces on my lower bunk.

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07-18-2017, 10:07 AM
Mine will not even come close to fitting in with the lower bunk on. Right now I have to remove both sides, store them along the side of the garage, and reinstall them after arriving at camp. Then I go through the same routine to get home. That involves either two people to steady one side while removing screws or balancing it on saw horses to remove and reinstall. It is 3-4 hours labor for a shop to do the install but it will be worth it to me since it involves removing both sides of the trolley to install the new "slot trolley" lifts. Just trying to remove the upper bunk to do that would be a major PIA so I will pay to have it done. Plus I have no desire to do this work in 105 temps with 40% humidity.

07-18-2017, 11:33 AM
The upper bunk appears really easy to remove if you have a helping hand. It's just 4 quick pins and it should lift up and off the support brackets.

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07-18-2017, 11:47 AM
Mine bunk is not the slotted trolley so it has to be unscrewed and taken out. You might check yours because if the middle/bottom trolley is the slotted system you may not have to do any more than purchase the bunk brackets and locks. With mine I have to remove the entire system to get to the trolleys from the bottom and replace them with slotted. PM me an email and I will send you the info that I have.

07-19-2017, 04:00 PM
Can't zoom in too far, but on mine, where I've circled in your pic, there are little quick release pins. Then the bunk will lift off of those brackets for removal. Now to remove the brackets from the rail, that's another story!

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07-19-2017, 04:10 PM
Yeah, probably so. I had not looked at it that close. But my big issue is doing this job in July in Phoenix. Not going to happen, by me anyway.

The brackets do not need to come off since the top bunk attachment remains the same but the rails need to come off of the wall so that you can get to the bottom of the trolley to make the changes. It probably can be done without but the instructions say it is easier by removing them.

07-19-2017, 04:30 PM
Yeah, probably so. I had not looked at it that close. But my big issue is doing this job in July in Phoenix. Not going to happen, by me anyway.

The brackets do not need to come off since the top bunk attachment remains the same but the rails need to come off of the wall so that you can get to the bottom of the trolley to make the changes. It probably can be done without but the instructions say it is easier by removing them.

oh yeah, the heat is too much in July... even here in TX.. the humidity is killer.

07-19-2017, 05:24 PM
Right now with Monsoon it ain't a dry heat!

08-11-2017, 04:47 PM
We leave for high country Sunday and I now have all the parts to do this job. I am going to do it where temps are 70 rather than 105. I have all of the instructions for install except one part of the lift system. There is nothing in the tools section for this one so I am hoping that someone has disassembled their HappiJac bed system and has some pointers. The one area that I am not sure of is the motor/shaft system. I can get the rails down and the new trolleys in but I am not sure of how to take the motor/shaft off without things falling into pieces. I have also searched on HappiJac's Web page and through the Internet but there is very limited info.


01-04-2018, 09:58 AM
Did you ever get the project finished?

01-04-2018, 10:22 AM
Yes and it was not difficult other than it takes making sure that all chains and blocks are installed and lined up correctly. I had a do over on one side when I thought that I had it correct and found one side went up and the other went down when I raised the lift.

I got quotes to have this done and they all wanted about $500 so I saved that by doing it myself. A couple of times I got into a bind on how to disassemble the motor and rod but a call to HappiJac got me some instructions. They were helpful.

I like the results and one person can put the bunks up or take them down with little trouble.

01-04-2018, 12:18 PM
Do you have any pics you can share?

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01-04-2018, 02:41 PM
I don't. I was more motivated to get it done. Stopping for photos is for people who have more patience than me.

The instructions are pretty good and really it is removing the screw bolts that hold the rails, dropping the rails to the floor which is a two person job and replacing the trolleys with the slot trolleys. The instructions do show how to set up the chains. Then it is remounting the rails on the wall. Another two person job. The drive shaft has a set screw that locks it in place. That is loosened and the shaft slid in so that it can be removed from the opposite wall rails (I think. I am going by memory here). Then it is a repeat on the other side rails. You just have to make sure that you pay close attention to the chain guides and which way the come off. That is explained in the paperwork. I did not on the first one and when I got it up on the wall and checked the travel, it was going one way on one side and the opposite direction on the other. I had to take it down and redo it. There is not enough space between the bottom of the rails and floor of the garage to leave the rails on the wall to work on them.

One item that was not covered anywhere, and it took some thought to solve, was that the slot bracket that replaces the one that is on the rail and holding the bunk to the trolley pops out of the slots in the trolley when you lift the bunk to unlatch and drop it. Nowhere was there an explanation on how to prevent that because otherwise the entire bunk can come out and drop to the floor or on someone. There is a hole just above the slot in the trolley, where the bunk support arm is inserted. I had several screw bolts left over from where the rail attaches to the bottom of the bunk. I used one of those bolts in each of the holes on each trolley and it locked the bunk to the rails. I told the people at HappiJack about this and got an "oh, yeah, that's what we do." It is not mentioned anywhere in the instructions.

Oh, and the other two person job is that the top bunk has to come off to get the rails off of the wall. My wife is little but she is strong :)

03-07-2018, 08:28 PM
Did they give you part number for the kit to change it over? I am interested in doing this.

05-11-2018, 01:44 PM
Any new news on this?

05-14-2018, 04:40 PM
I don't know if OP will reply soon with more info, but here's what he shared with me in the beginning. I don't know if these numbers are currently accurate, but will give you a starting point. I think the only way to order is directly from Happijac themselves. Also I don't know the rules about posting pricing, so I left those off, but total was less than $500 I believe. There are also some PDF files that show some of the parts and how to install them, not sure if I can attach them here or not.

Below is the listed parts needed to upgrade to the hinged sofa system.

Hinged Bracket Upgrade Kit:
2 of these:
4 of these:
4 of these:
2 of these:
365881 SOFA LOCKS (Pair)

Happijac Company
Technical / Product Support
A Division of Lippert Components, Inc.
505 N. Kays Drive
Kaysville, UT 84037
(801) 544-2585
(800) 231-7440

05-14-2018, 07:15 PM
Any new news on this?

What news were you looking for? I have the parts list and the instructions that HappiJac sent me. It has been a year since I did the switch out so I too, cannot tell you if the parts prices are still the same. You would have to call them at their Utah shop to check. The install is pretty straight forward as mentioned in my post a couple of posts up. The only part that took some help was getting the rails down off of the wall and back up once the bolts are removed. It is a little on the wide side for one person to control without it falling apart.

By far this was the best mod I did to allow me to get the side X side in without having to remove bunks.