Surge protector

Lou_and_Bette

Well-known member
Are you sure you want to hard wire it in? I have, and prefer, the portable Progressive Industry's EMS. I like being able to get out of the truck and do an electrical check before I go through all the trouble of backing in only to find out there is a problem and have to move. Pull throughs aren't as big a deal but still have to pull out the cord and hope all is well. I know everyone has their own way but this works better for me. And, yes, in our 4 years of full timing, we have found several sites that had significant electrical problems that warranted a move.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Putting it outside does not protect against an open neutral inside the rig. We had one at the pole, but it did not protect against the open neutral inside the power reel. We now an internally installed Progressive surge protector installed in the service bay. We still use the external one for double protection against surges/lightning and because we have it. I do not use the surge protector to check the power at the pole. I use a volt meter and plug in 120V power tester. I have found two ground fault plugs in two parks without a ground. The 30 amp and 50 amp plugs have so far, testing good.
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
I was able to put mine right behind the circuit breaker box in my Landmark. Just had to take out the breaker box and fire extinguisher bracket, pretty easy. Didn't have to crawl through the basement of doom.
 

Rollin_Free

Well-known member
Putting it outside does not protect against an open neutral inside the rig. We had one at the pole, but it did not protect against the open neutral inside the power reel. We now an internally installed Progressive surge protector installed in the service bay. We still use the external one for double protection against surges/lightning and because we have it. I do not use the surge protector to check the power at the pole. I use a volt meter and plug in 120V power tester. I have found two ground fault plugs in two parks without a ground. The 30 amp and 50 amp plugs have so far, testing good.

Would you be able to provide pictures of both protection devices. My breaker box is below our stove and I'd like to put it there but not sure of the size. Do you need access to the PI hard wired model to reset if an issue is detected or is that automatically done.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
The hardwired Progressive unit will reset itself once the external problem is corrected. The remote display will retain the error code until you clear it by shutting power off and turning it back on. If you go to their website, you can read the manual and I think the dimensions are there, too. Normally, once installed, there is no need to access it. The remote display will tell you everything you need to know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
JohnDar answered your question, but you may need some six gauge wire. Red, White, Black, and I used bare copper 10 gauge ground wire. If you do, you can order this on line through Home Depot.
 

Kgwill

Member
Thanks for all the input. We kept our surge protector from our last camper and will be installing it in the basement. Great idea about checking plugs on site before pulling in. Will keep multi meter handy.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
JohnDar answered your question, but you may need some six gauge wire. Red, White, Black, and I used bare copper 10 gauge ground wire. If you do, you can order this on line through Home Depot.

Any Home Depot, Lowe's, or even Menards should have the wire in stock. Local hardware stores are another possible source. The installation is pretty straightforward and doesn't require a degree in electrical engineering. Hardest part is making the connections inside the box because there isn't a lot of room to work.
 

Rollin_Free

Well-known member
JohnDar answered your question, but you may need some six gauge wire. Red, White, Black, and I used bare copper 10 gauge ground wire. If you do, you can order this on line through Home Depot.

Thanks for the answers. I'm looking into the 30 amp options.
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
I love my hard wired Progressive 50amp surge protector.!!! I call it my "Silent protector" I just pull out my electric power real and plug it in, it takes over from there. I don't have to drag it out and plug it in and I don't have to worry about some lowlife stealing it. In the 6 or 8 months I've had it in My Landmark it has only cut me off twice for low voltage. Then after a few seconds and turning off the hair dryer and the water heater it would reset and all was well. Both time were the same campsite, it was only pushing 110V for a few days
Mine is installed behind the basement wall right before my first transfer switch.
 

jhardin

Well-known member
I'm a firm believer in progressive surge protection. I had a portable progressive that had gone bad while camping (from Rain). I always locked it to the power pedestal with a bicycle lock. I called progressive for there lifetime warranty as progressive states, they told me to send it back with purchase order. They replaced it with a refurbished one! AWSOME company! Problem was, I had no protection while protector was sent off. I bought a hard wired one and installed it after the power/gen relay along with a bypass switch. Sure seems good not to worry about someone running off with it. Now I have a spare portable progressive protector also, so if the hardwire protector happens to go bad I'll just hit the bypass and use the portable. It is a matter of choice, but I've had both and I am a lot more comfortable with the hardwired one. I would get the bypass switch also, if you choose to go with the hard wired one. JMHO
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
Question for you guys with the hardwired version....did you go for the remote monitor version? How helpful is the remote monitor? Worth the extra $61?
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Question for you guys with the hardwired version....did you go for the remote monitor version? How helpful is the remote monitor? Worth the extra $61?


I have the dual remote version. 1 is in the docking station to check out things when I plug in. If all is good I switch it over to the inside monitor, I then can monitor it from the inside while we're camping. If it troughs an Error code I can see what it is right away. If I had the other one I would have to unload my basement and remove my wall to check it out.
I guess if you mount it where you can get to it easily you could save $60. I would spend the dough and do it right...
 

SNOKING

Well-known member
I have a single remote mounted in the switch panel. So yes I think the remove is useful. Shows error codes, cycles, voltage and Amps for each line. Chris

Upper right.

 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
Thanks for the help...great info.

I'm leaning toward the hardware version, but only using 1 monitor inside the coach. Is it really just phone line used to carry the signal to the monitor? I might need a bit more length than what they send.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
According to the web site, it is NOT ordinary phone wire but data wire. There is a difference.
 
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