Best towing vehicle

Dreamer7

Active Member
Hello,

I own a 2015 32 Northtrail RLTS with no towing vehicle. I'm trying to decide if I should sell, rent a towing vehicle or buy something to tow it with. Suggestions are appreciated. I'm in a pickle bc I've never pulled this camper and I'm afraid to, but I need to figure something out and am considering trying to get it down to NC where my sister lives, selling it or buying something to move it with.

Thanks for your help,
Katy
 

danemayer

Well-known member
You can hire a transport driver to move it for you. That's how they're delivered from the factory to dealers.
 
Hello,

I own a 2015 32 Northtrail RLTS with no towing vehicle. I'm trying to decide if I should sell, rent a towing vehicle or buy something to tow it with. Suggestions are appreciated. I'm in a pickle bc I've never pulled this camper and I'm afraid to, but I need to figure something out and am considering trying to get it down to NC where my sister lives, selling it or buying something to move it with.

Thanks for your help,
Katy



I think my first question would be... is it something you will use? If you have no interest in camping then I'd say sell it. On the other hand, if you are interested in doing some traveling and camping then I'd say buy a tow vehicle. If you're going to use it, you want to pull it yourself without having to rent something every time.

I'm guessing by your name and nature of your post that you are a woman and also that you've not done a lot of towing and are finding that intimidating. Well, I'm female, 50 years old and I just bought my very first travel trailer and have no issues towing it. Now prior to this, I had a boat... and by boat I mean a 32' full cabin cruiser and I used to tow that around town so towing is not new to me. IMO, the travel trailer is much easier to tow but I think that's because I didn't have the sway bars with the boat and it was heavier than the trailer.

Again, if you don't think you'll use it then sell it... no sense in letting a year old RV sit there and rot. If you do want to use it, you could always do what the other post suggested and get it moved down to your sister's house by a transport driver and then when you get there you can take your time researching and buying a tow vehicle and then learning how to drive (and back up) your rig. Like I said, I'm a 50 year old woman and I do it all myself, hook it up, tow it, back it/park it... etc. etc. If I can do it so can you :)
 
P.S. I looked up that trailer and it looks like it's just under 7,000 lbs. dry weight with 780 lbs. of tongue weight. You're gonna need a truck to tow that. I'm towing mine (which is only a few hundred pounds lighter) with an SUV (Yukon Denali XLT) and even though it's rated to handle it, I know I'm pushing the limit and so I'm staying close to home until I buy a truck. I'm looking at the Ford F250. I probably don't need that much truck but I like the idea of having room to trade up if I want in the future. Looks like the GVWR for your trailer is 8600 lbs. (meaning weight of trailer plus any gear/fluids) So you should be looking at a truck that can pull at least 10,000 pounds. In my opinion, it's better to have a little extra in the tow vehicle than scraping by with barely enough ;)
 

Carleen

Well-known member
If you decide to keep it and need a truck- there are several out there that do the job. I'm a girl who now drives a F-350 Super Duty Longbed Diesel and love it! I had a Chevy Silverado 1500 to pull our 22' trailer that weighed 4800 lbs loaded. But, we live in Colorado and are always going over passes and quickly learned the truck was at it's max towing that much weight despite having a towing capacity of 9500 lbs. Knowing we wanted to buy a fifth-wheel, I traded it for an F-350 diesel. I love the truck! More comfortable and built to tow. It even has a towing checklist to go through once you are hitched up before you leave. However, it was beating up our trailer. Chopped the tires, propane tank came loose from the frame, wood edging fell off of the shelves, shower head flew across the bathroom and broke... That was all on one trip driving on concrete. We decided the 1 ton truck was too much for the little trailer and quickly traded the trailer in for a 2011 Bighorn Fifth Wheel that is much more suited to pull with the truck.

So- the point to my story- don't buy too much truck. The newer Ford F-150 with or without the Ecoboost seems to do really well with that weight. Once you learn to tow, it actually is really easy and fun. You feel empowered because you did it! The fear comes from looking at how long it is, but once the trailer is behind you, it's really not that bad. You just have to pay attention to turns, give more space with breaking, watch your speed, and keep your chin up. You can do it!!!
 
The fear comes from looking at how long it is,


LOL... the first time I saw my rig all hooked up my eyes bugged out of my head a little. Even though I'd towed a 32 foot boat around before, it has been a couple of years and I'd forgotten just how long it is. With the right setup though, once you're behind the wheel it's not even an issue.
 

Mattman

Well-known member
LOL... the first time I saw my rig all hooked up my eyes bugged out of my head a little. Even though I'd towed a 32 foot boat around before, it has been a couple of years and I'd forgotten just how long it is. With the right setup though, once you're behind the wheel it's not even an issue.

When I got my new NT home, I said the same thing. It was lot bigger in my yard then at the dealer. I said what the heck did I just buy. Now I wish I would have gone a little bigger. Lol.
 

Dreamer7

Active Member
Yes, thank you. I was hoping perhaps someone might be traveling back from dropping their camper and be able to move it for a fee. May sell it, in a quandary.
 

Dreamer7

Active Member
Thank you for your message. :). I appreciate your thoughts. I'm seriously considering buying an F250 also... I will let you know what I decide. I've traveled the US and it's amazing. I would like to do more of this, and I am looking into possible truck choices more seriously. I just need to feel confident in the right truck, I'm beginning to think. :). Thanks again. :)
 

Dreamer7

Active Member
Cool. Thanks for your message. :).

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Exactly!! I've been sizing it up daily! But maybe I just need to start test driving the right beast of a machine to handle it! Time for some test drives, perhaps. Thank you for your message. :)

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Awesome Carleen! Thanks for the positive vibes! :). I appreciate your story! I'll let you know what I decide, ok? :)

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For sure! Thank you! This is a bit beyond my capacity in terms of math, it's so complicated. I need to understand this more...it's so confusing! But I need a10k capacity truck to be safe?

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To add to previous response, a friend recently bought an F150 with an upgrade do it can now tow 12k.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Get any of the 250's/2500's . . . that will be a good choice for your trailer.

Better to have more than enough truck than just enough truck . . . or not enough truck!
 

Dreamer7

Active Member
What about diesel? I hear they run forever.

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Cool, thank you! Nice truck!

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Cool, thank you! Nice truck!
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
Get any of the 250's/2500's . . . that will be a good choice for your trailer.

Better to have more than enough truck than just enough truck . . . or not enough truck!

Absolutely, I hate to say that I too was initiated into the club when I let a salesman sell me a marginal truck for the BC3650RL. Thanks to this forum, I can read the charts, I just ordered the 2017 RAM 3500 it will be here in 8 to 10 weeks. It was not the salesman's fault, I'm the one that bought it.
 
For sure! Thank you! This is a bit beyond my capacity in terms of math, it's so complicated. I need to understand this more...it's so confusing! But I need a10k capacity truck to be safe?


First you should really understand what the numbers mean, it's not all that complicated but unfortunately sometimes when you are trying to read up on it the writer goes way overboard in terms of technical writing. Let's see if I can simplify it.

GVW = Gross Vehicle Weight. This is the actual weight of the vehicle with passengers, cargo and fuel. So what it actually weighs, not what it's rated for. You get these numbers when you weigh at a CAT scale. ** see notes below about scales

GVWR = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. In a nutshell this is the maximum weight a vehicle (with everything possible you will put in it including passengers, fuel, water, pets, ice chests... everything) is rated for. Your TV (tow vehicle) will have it's own GVWR and your Travel Trailer will have it's own GVWR. The GVWR is not your tow capacity, that comes into play later. GVWR is strictly about the individual vehicle.

GAWR - Gross Axle Weight Rating. The weight rating for each axle of a vehicle. (Don't worry, this is all listed out on the white sticker on the driver side door of every vehicle.).

CGVWR = Combined Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the total weight your vehicle is rated for including everything, TV, Trailer, Fuel, Water, Passengers, Cargo... everything. This is NOT how much you can tow, it's the combined total of everything... the MAXIMUM weight of your entire rig that should not be exceeded.

Tongue Weight = The weight on the hitch when the trailer is hooked up to your tow vehicle. It should be between 10-15% of the (loaded) trailer weight. So if your trailer weighs 8,000 lbs. the tongue weight should be between 800 - 1,200 lbs.

To look at an example, I'll use my own vehicles and break it down each vehicle on its own:

First my Tow Vehicle

GVWR of 7,200 lbs.
*Curb Weight of 5,123 lbs.
*(curb weight typically includes weight of vehicle and a full tank of fuel but no passengers or cargo)

MATH: 7200 - 5123= 2,077. So this means I can carry 2,077 pounds of cargo in the tow vehicle. But that doesn't mean I can throw 2,077 pounds in the back because the weight should be distributed over the axles so as not to exceed my axle ratings of:

GAWR (front) = 3550
GAWR (rear) = 4000



Travel Trailer

GVWR - 9,000 lbs
Dry Weight = 6,695
*(Dry weight typically includes only the weight of the vehicle with appliances and furniture, does not include water, passengers or cargo)

MATH: 9,000 - 6,695= 2,305. So this means I can carry 2,305 pounds of cargo in the trailer.




So what does this all mean? My TV has a CGVWR of 14,000 lbs. My TV has a GVWR of 7,200 and my Travel Trailer 9,000 MATH: 9,000 + 7,200 = 16,200 which exceeds 14,000 lbs. so I know I can't tow with everything fully loaded. However: TV Curb weight of 5123 and Trailer Dry Weight of 6,695 MATH: 5,123 + 6,695 = 11,818 which means I can tow the trailer but I need to minimize the cargo and know what everything weighs. (LOL, you should have seen me with my bathroom scale and luggage scale weighing everything when I was loading). This is why I'm shopping for a new truck now.

Now we get to the CAT scales. Ever been to a LOVES travel stop (or any other similar travel stop where the big rigs pull in to fuel up and sleep)? They typically have CAT scales, which is a big scale you drive on and it weighs your rig and gives you a printout with weight for each axle, FRONT, REAR and TRAILER and Grand Total. It's freaking awesome! You just drive on making sure each axle is on the right scale plate, push the button (or use smart phone app... even better!!) and then you go get your paper with all the numbers.

So I loaded up my rig... cargo, fuel, food, chairs, tools ... most of what I will take with me and went to the CAT scales and here is what my numbers were:


Steer (front) axle: 2880 (so less than my max of 3550)
Drive (rear) axle: 3880 (so less than my max of 4000)
Trailer axle: 6,380

Gross Weight = 13,060 (so less than max of 14,000)

To minimize weight I pulled out the 3rd row seating in the Denali and also traveled with ZERO water on board the trailer.

I did not disconnect and re-weigh to get Tongue weight but I'm assuming (I know, I know) that with the numbers and weight distribution setup I'm ok. I will probably do the official multi-weigh next time to get an official number.


When I first started down this road, the numbers were all a mystery to me too. It didn't take long to get in and figure it out, although my eyes still glaze over when I wade into the deep end of the technical pool and people start talking about torque ratios and suspensions and blah blah blah. For my needs I think the simple approach of just understanding these basic numbers will serve me well. I'm pulling a fairly light travel trailer, not an 18,000 lb. 5er.


I think that about covers the basics and I'm sure if I made mistakes someone will come along and correct me. I really hope I helped and didn't complicate things further but if I did....


TL;DR: When shopping for a TV, don't just believe the salesperson when they say "oh it can tow this or that". Look at the numbers yourself and understand them. I know an F150 can pull my trailer, but honestly, my current SUV is rated only slightly under the F150 on tow capacity. This is why I'm going with the F250, I've looked at the numbers and I'm more comfortable with those numbers (on either the 2x4 or 4x4) for my trailer. Your trailer isn't all that heavy either but it's also not super light so you might not want to go with the bare minimum in terms of towing power either.



** 2 notes about scales:
1. The most accurate way to get exact numbers in terms of how your loaded rig weight is distributed is having each wheel put on a scale independently. I think they might offer this at some of the rallys but for our purposes here and the fact that we are talking about fairly light travel trailers, the CAT scales are more than sufficient. A little common sense goes a long way when loading up the vehicles ;)

2. In case you were wondering, you do not stop at scales on the freeway as those are for the big rigs, not RVers. CAT scales are what you want if you want to know your weight (and you should) and you will find them at Travel stops such as Loves or Flying J. There is a CAT scales app for your smart phone to make things easier.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Gulf Coast Girl,

I love your explanation. And it sounds like you're diligent about managing the weights so you don't end up overloaded. For those who are less diligent, it's a good idea to do the math using the trailer's GVWR. And for those old enough to remember the movie The Long, Long Trailer, collecting rocks as souvenirs is not a good idea. :rolleyes:
 
Gulf Coast Girl,

I love your explanation. And it sounds like you're diligent about managing the weights so you don't end up overloaded. For those who are less diligent, it's a good idea to do the math using the trailer's GVWR. And for those old enough to remember the movie The Long, Long Trailer, collecting rocks as souvenirs is not a good idea. :rolleyes:


Thanks! Except I just went and re-checked my paperwork to make sure I had my SUV numbers listed correctly and found that my Axle Ratio is the 3.73 not the 4.10 (which I originally thought) which means my combined weight limit is 13,000... meaning I'm over by 60 pounds :(. I guess the dog and beer cooler will have to ride in my sister's truck until I get a new TV :D
 

Dreamer7

Active Member
I'm sure you aren't the first, or the last! It's complicated! I think I may be buying an older suburban 2500 heavy duty (1991 w new transmission) as a baby step starting point. It's already pulled the camper so I know it can do it. I'd just start very local and on flat land! :)

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There should be a simpler way to figure this all out! Lol
 

Dreamer7

Active Member
Ok, I just saw your long, detailed message. I think this is my homework for the next week! Lol. I appreciate the breakdown but since both TV and camper have GVWR's, I got a little lost in the third paragraph. However, I appreciate the time you put into your explanation and I will study it carefully. Clearly, when I bought this camper, I didn't expect to need to do all this math or even tow it! :). However, the feeling of accomplishment after I make this all happen will be pretty awesome. :). I will read, and reread your post and get back to you!
 
I'm sure you aren't the first, or the last! It's complicated! I think I may be buying an older suburban 2500 heavy duty (1991 w new transmission) as a baby step starting point. It's already pulled the camper so I know it can do it. I'd just start very local and on flat land! :)


I didn't look at the numbers for the Suburban but the Suburban and Yukon are very similar vehicles. Of course that 2500 will likely pull more than my 1500 but how much more, I really don't know. Your trailer also weighs a little more than mine so you will likely be in the same boat I am... pushing the weight limits. If you read these forums (and other RV forums) enough I think you will find most of the experienced folks giving out the "just because it can, doesn't mean it should" advice. I tend to be a bit pig headed so it took a while for that advice to really sink in :cool:, but after having it out on the road a couple of times I understand what they are getting at so now I'm shopping... and oh my, how I hate car shopping!

Sounds like your plan is same as mine, flat roads, close to home. Even so, you will definitely need a weight distribution hitch, sway bars and a trailer brake controller in the Suburban (if it doesn't already have one). Sounds like you are buying the Suburban from the folks who sold you the trailer so it should already have all 3. My advice would be to actually hitch up that trailer to that Suburban and see what it drives like before you buy the Suburban. If you feel that trailer pushing or pulling the Suburban at all... don't buy it! If it does that empty, imagine what it will be like when you put cargo in it. Towing a vehicle that is pushing/pulling on the TV is scary and will put you off of wanting to get out and use it.

Figuring out some of this stuff is exhausting but just remember.... the fun and exciting times are just ahead :)
 

Dreamer7

Active Member
Gulf Coast Girl,

I'm actually planning to buy the Suburban from my ex boyfriend, it's what has pulled the camper. I'll check on those three things you mentioned. I'd asked if he would teach me to pull it but says he won't...nice, huh? Well I'll definitely try to convince him to let me pull it before buying it, but I also bought a house built in 1890 that needs everything, so, I could also use it for some demolition projects. I think it's a 3/4 ton truck.

Yes, I'm trying to focus on the small steps toward big fun!! We had three other smaller campers and kept upgrading so it's hard to go back the other way. I love my camper and want to be able to use it! I also live in the country, so if I upgrade I have a feeling someone would be interested in it out here. Of course, parts should be cheap and it's run like a champ since I've known him so hopefully it's the right decision! I'd love a new truck but I'm a little strapped after all of my purchases lately! My goal is to bring it down to Florida (I visited several great beach locations last year) and of course head out west, at some point. But just using it relatively locally would be a good start! I'm still scared to do this but feel the fear and do it anyway!! Haha. :). Good luck searching for your your new truck!
 
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