caulking question

LCowan

Member
Ok so we have decided on the caulk to use...sikaflex 505 uv. We have started the process, but as I look at the old caulking I am noticing that there is not caulk on the underside of things..(ie storage compartments, tail lights). I know not to caulk the underside of the windows, but do I caulk the underside of everything else? Also do I caulk around the entry doors? It's pretty clear the that top of the doors are caulked, but it's hard to tell if it comes down the sides of the doors? You would think that this is an easy project, but just want to be sure. I wish I could find a diagram that just shows everything to caulk. Thanks for sharing any of your knowledge in this area.
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
I would caulk everywhere but the drain holes for the windows. But I've been know to be wrong before.....
 

LCowan

Member
I emailed Heartland to ask about caulking and they said if it's not already caulked then don't caulk it.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Calking underside will seal it. If the calking on the top or sides looses its bond or cracks, water will get in and not have any place to go. Delamination, mildew, and rot will be the result.
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
Calking underside will seal it. If the calking on the top or sides looses its bond or cracks, water will get in and not have any place to go. Delamination, mildew, and rot will be the result.

I want to seal it. Water getting in at the top is not guaranteed to exit the bottom even if not sealed. If no water gets in, top, bottom, or sides there should be no problems.

Water will run uphill to get in a crack.
 

Domi

Well-known member
Caulked in the spring an followed what Heartland had done. The windows are supposed to have a interior caulk and that is why you only go part way down. I would think you could go all the way down but not sure I would do the bottoms. If you have not seen delamination yet I would guess there is a good seal in there.

You did not mention the roof. Might want to take a look up there especially where it joins the front and end caps. If you can peel any caulk away it is bad and needs to be replaced. Keep digging at any dirt track until you get to good caulk, if there is dirt there was water. I did this around all the vents and openings also. I was surprised at how deep some of the tracks went on "good looking" caulk.

Have fun, took we about 2 weekends to get it done if I remember correctly.

John
 

LCowan

Member
Thanks everyone for your input. I really like reading what everyone has to say.

John,
This is a big job. I wish it would only take two weekends, but trying to do it when the weather is good for a few days. It's been a slow process. We are planning on looking at the roof too. We asked at camping world about cost for them to inspect the roof and re-caulk what was needed, but the cost they gave us made us think that we would attempt it on our own. We have been watching videos and it looks like a job we could do. I am just hoping that redoing the entire trailer is not an every year job! Also was wondering if you caulked down the sides of the door? I can definitely tell that the top of the door is caulked, but when I look at the sides of the doors it's hard to tell. I don't want to ruin something by digging out a seal of some sort.
 
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LCowan

Member
We have also found that we need to re-caulk inside the shower where the glass shower wall meets the shower surround. What kind do I use? Wasn't sure if I could just use one that I would use around my shower at home.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I used a clear indoor silicone on the inside of mine several years ago after reading about leaks on the shower surround. It's been fine since. At a rally, the "experts" said to caulk the outside, not the inside. Guess they didn't know the water would run under it and drip through the screw holes that held it to the Fiberglas stall. HL screws the surround to it. Something else they didn't realize.


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LCowan

Member
JohnDar,
It looks like silicone caulk on it now, but it has not held up. It could be the caulk job so I'll need to look at it again. Might think about doing inside and outside the shower...it would be overkill, but don't like water getting out of the shower.
 

Nuclearcowboy

Well-known member
We have also found that we need to re-caulk inside the shower where the glass shower wall meets the shower surround. What kind do I use? Wasn't sure if I could just use one that I would use around my shower at home.

I highly recommend ensuring you have a good seal on your shower. On my last RV and on the new one I have on order, one of the first things I will do is seal up the lower shower area with clear silicon sealant - you don't want to have water migrating under the fiberglass shower unit.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Always calk the inside of the shower and the left and right bottom rail where it meets the side frame. I never calk the outside. Should the water penetrate from the inside, you want to provide a path for evaporation. If the water pools and has no exit, it will create a big STINK!
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
The other thing we do is use a soft squeegee on the entire interior after a shower.


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JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
We also have a squeegee hanging in the shower.

It worked better in the Trail Runner as it had smooth shower walls.

Our Prowler has a rough finish with patterns molded into the finish.

Works great on the glass, though!
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Our's is the old neo-angle shower with the "rain glass." The pattern is in the outside only, so the squeegee works fine. Same on our S&B showers.


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Domi

Well-known member
Sorry for the slow replay, we have been in the Colorado mountains doing fall colors drives. It is great having a trailer to do this with.

I did caulk the door where the frame met up with the side of the trailer. The door does not look like it had any so I just left that.

I looked at the caulk again and I am hoping I will not have to do it in the spring. As long as it is looking fresh I will let it go a couple of years but inpect it to make sure. The old caulk had gotten chalky and had cracks in the top when I looked at it and that was what made me replace it. As long as the new stuff looks like a good seal I am planning on leaving it.

My fall task will be a strip and wax, but we need to be home for a weekend and I do not see that happening as long as the weather stays nice like it is currently.

Have fun,

John
 
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