Stuck main slide

Kiko

Member

• Jul 5, 2008

• #1

The bedroom slide works fine but the main slide (living room) will not retract. After two hours (inch by inch) I eventually got the slide to retract. I referenced the owners manual and the only info I took in was that there was an obstruction between the slide and the body, but there was no obstruction whatsoever. There is no fluid leakage anywhere either.

Does anyone have any advice on this issue?? Heartland and Lippert are closed for the July 4 holidays.

Kiko, Stuck in Mexico with a bum slide.

 

erond

Member

• Jul 5, 2008

• #2

Did the slide even "try" to retract or did it not budge at all? Did you check power/fuses?

 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator

• Jul 5, 2008

• #3

My first thoughts are to have you check the valves on the slide hydraulic unit. There may be one partially closed? Did the motor/pump sound as if it were straining or anything abnormal?

 

Uncle Rog

Well-known member

• Jul 6, 2008

• #4

Kiko, electric / hydraulic has to be the answer, at least if you are stuck in Mexico you are close to home...............

 

Kiko

Member

• Jul 6, 2008

• #5

Electric motor is good and the bedroom slide will extend and retract perfectly. Fluid level is good at the hydraulics, the level is about 3/4" from the top of the container. Both control valve levers at the hydraulic controls are at 6 pm as always. Initially the main slide will move in about 3 inches and then stop. No sign of fluid leakage anywhere.

Dealer and Lippert were closed for the holiday weekend. I'm stumped. RV is level. Would it be easier for the slide to retract if I shifted that side of the RV to be higher than the other side? I'm grasping for straws here.

 

D

driver311

Well-known member

• Jul 6, 2008

• #6

slides

close the bed room slide and turn it off so it wont move any more.

then try to close the other slide

move the valve on that slide close and open a couple of time there could be an obstruction in the valve

driver311NoneNone

 

Kiko

Member

• Jul 7, 2008

• #7

I closed the right valve bedroom the other day and still no luck with the main slide.

Only thing I haven't mentioned is that I was running the elec off of my generator and the battery had been removed from the RV. But I don't see how that would make any difference as the motor is running fine. So I do not think it is an electrical issue. When I try to retract the main slide it may move a few inches, stops movement, and then the motor bogs down and stops so I release the switch. I then extend the slide a few inches and stop. Then I try to retract the slide a few inches more than previously. Eventually I get it closed this way. I'm trying to be careful as to not overload the motor.

 

busted2341

Well-known member

• Jul 7, 2008

• #8

Don't know how old your rig is but the same thing happened to me and I found the battery dead. The smaller slides come in just fine but when the big one starts to move it all stops. Took me awhile but the battery just have the power which I found is necessary....

 

Jimmyt5

Well-known member

• Jul 7, 2008

• #9

I had a Terry like that and I traded it in. A week later I went to dealer and it was gone,I asked him if they fixed the slide? He said we just replaced the battery.....


Jim

 

TXBobcat

Fulltime

• Jul 7, 2008

• #10

I tried to move the slides on the converter one time and it was to big of a current load for it and I found out that I had disconnected the battery..

Put a charged battery back into the Trailer and try moving the slides..

Hope you get this worked out..

BC

 

Shadowchek

Well-known member

• Jul 7, 2008

• #11

You need a battery. The converter just isn't enough power to do much without a charged battery.

 

Kiko

Member

• Jul 7, 2008

• #12

Talked to the dealer this morning and he confirmed that the battery must be installed to move the slides. Somehow a generator running thru the converter does not have the necessary power to do the job. The battery is now charged and I plan to reinstall it tomorrow to try out the main slide again.

Thanks for all of the help,

 

Kiko

Member

• Jul 9, 2008

• #13

Yep, the slide works only when the battery is installed. Converter just does not have the juice otherwise.

Now if I could only find a way to fix a pin hole leak in the K/S faucet body. A nickel plated finish K/S faucet here in Mexico is about 3000 pesos (about $300 USD). Home Depot may have something in stock for less in Guadalajara, I'll look next week.

 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator

• Jul 9, 2008

• #14

Kiko said:

Yep, the slide works only when the battery is installed. Converter just does not have the juice otherwise.

Now if I could only find a way to fix a pin hole leak in the K/S faucet body. A nickel plated finish K/S faucet here in Mexico is about 3000 pesos (about $300 USD). Home Depot may have something in stock for less in Guadalajara, I'll look next week.

Click to expand...

Kiko, on that faucet. Turn off your water. Using an allen wrench, remove the single handle. The screw is under the little blue/red button under the handle. You can either take the top end apart and inspect for debris or just tighten up the collar a bit. That should resolve your leak I hope.

 

Kiko

Member

• Jul 10, 2008

• #15

pinhole in casting

I've done that and with the stems removed I pressurized the faucet body and found a pin hole in the casting of the brass in the threads where the stem nut attaches. Tiny tiny pinhole so I am going to remove the faucet and try to fill the pinhole in with solder. I was a master plumber in Texas years and years ago. We often found leaks in walls where someone had a patched a nail hole with filling in the puncture with solder. Sometimes the repair would last 15 or 20 years if the puncture was small. Anyway, it'll be a temporary repair until I can get back to Texas and pick something else up a little more reasonable than $300.

 

F

Forrest Fetherolf

Senior Member

• Jul 10, 2008

• #16

Kiko,

Billy Mays says mighty putty will fix your problem ................ https://www.mightyputty.com/spark/index.php
I tried it..................guess what................didn't work.

 

Kiko

Member

• Jul 10, 2008

• #17

Well I thought it was a pinhole; but when I put the cap nut on with the stem in and hand tightened the cap nut I could see that the thread was split open 180' around the faucet body casting. Way too big of a gap to try to seal properly with solder. Went into Guadalajara to Home Depot today (Thank God for the American Capitalism) and found a Hecho in China faucet in nickel for $60.00 USD. Well slap it in tomorrow if the rain lets up.