Toilet leaning to one side

The toilet in our Landmark is leaning to one side, a full bubble displacement on the level. It is about 1/4 off the floor on the right side as you look at the toilet.

I've loosened both nuts and retightened them but it didn't change anything. The floor still seems to be firm around the toilet so I'm not suspecting any hidden damage.

Any suggestions before I call a mobile service tech and shell out $100 to look at this? Also, is this an issue that should be reported to HL since we are still in our warranty period? (HL doesn't pay the mobile tech charges.)

TIA.

Jeff - sounds like the closet flange is broken. Happened on a previous coach of mine.


The best fix is to replace the closet flange but it's a bit involved. There are repair brackets/kits of various types.


I suggest you grab a rag, turn off the water, disconnect the water line at the commode, remove the nuts holding the commode down, remove the commode, place the rag in the sewer pipe.

Now, inspect the closet flange. If it's broken and you'd rather repair than replace, go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy all 3 types of closet flange repair brackets and bring them home to try each. Return what you don't use.

To replace the closet flange, you may need to cut the sewer pipe a foot or so below the floor, replace the closet flange and some pipe. May even want to use a Fernco coupling to join the new pipe to the old.

Jim, thanks for the info. Not being a plumber, I'll probably just report this issue to HL to get it on the record and turn it over to a mobile tech after ensuring, of course, that he has the parts necessary to make the repair. Don't want to be without a toilet, ya know?

Any idea what may have caused this flange to fail?

TxCowboy said:

Jim, thanks for the info. Not being a plumber, I'll probably just report this issue to HL to get it on the record and turn it over to a mobile tech after ensuring, of course, that he has the parts necessary to make the repair. Don't want to be without a toilet, ya know?

Any idea what may have caused this flange to fail?

Click to expand...

While seated using it, stress from leaning, pushing back on or rocking on the commode can do it. Unsure of other ways to break a closet flange. Not a plumber either

I hadn't heard of toilet flange repair rings, so after Jim posted about these I went to the Home Depot website to check them out. While there, I found a listing for "Toilet Shims" that might help you with your problem: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Toilet-Shims-4-Pack-88523/205172157

The only way to tell what's wrong is pull the toilet. If the toilet has shifted it could be partly resting on flange. Since the flange is plastic that metal repair ring is not the best way to repair a broken flange. That repair ring is made for a plastic flange with rotating metal ring where the metal has broken or rusted away. Shims are for uneven floor like a tile or concrete floor. If the flange is indeed broken, the only way to fix it right is replace the flange. It is possible to to cut/peel off old flange and glue on new flange (done it many times but I don't suggest it). The best way is cut pipe blow floor (hopefully in basement) and install new flange with short section of new pipe.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

SLO said:

The only way to tell what's wrong is pull the toilet. If the toilet has shifted it could be partly resting on flange. Since the flange is plastic that metal repair ring is not the best way to repair a broken flange. That repair ring is made for a plastic flange with rotating metal ring where the metal has broken or rusted away. Shims are for uneven floor like a tile or concrete floor. If the flange is indeed broken, the only way to fix it right is replace the flange. It is possible to to cut/peel off old flange and glue on new flange (done it many times but I don't suggest it). The best way is cut pipe blow floor (hopefully in basement) and install new flange with short section of new pipe.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

X2 Rick though not currently in use carry a CO. issued Master plumbing liscense. Your suggestion is the only correct way.

Reported the issue to HL this morning just to get it on the record. Have a mobile tech coming on Friday to fix whatever is wrong. Will update the thread with their findings.

Thanks for the update and we are standing by to see what the outcome is.

Have the RV repair guys here right now. The toilet flange is broken in two places and was installed crooked (not flat) at the factory.

Here's the kicker -- they removed the toilet and the three inch pipe fell into the basement.

It seems that, because the flange wasn't installed correctly at the factory, the three inch toilet pipe was only inserted into the second section by about 1/2 inch and was never glued and sealed. By removing the toilet, the downward pressure on the pipe was released and the pipe fell out. It is very clear to see that the pipe was only inserted about 1/2 inch instead of the correct length of 2 to 3 inches (per the RV tech).

Anyway, it's being fixed now. I alerted HL this past Monday about this issue so it is on the record. I'll pay the RV techs for their services and their mobile tech fee. I'm sure HL will make good on the cost of repairs minus the $100 for the mobile tech fee.

Here's a couple of pics:

Broken toilet flange



Main pipe separated -- you can see it was only inserted about 1/2 inch and has no sealant.



Moisture leak under main pipe

Considering the mess up on the install, Heartland should pay it all. Whether they will or not is another issue.

And here we thought that we could blame it on the one cheek sneek!

Lynn, thanks for posting your stinky job here. I'm always learning something around here for the future...love this place!

Lynn1130 said:

Considering the mess up on the install, Heartland should pay it all. Whether they will or not is another issue.

Click to expand...

Heartland has had a definite policy in force for years to NOT pay the site service fee for mobile RV repairers. I don't think they will flex on this. I think that they believe it is the OWNER's responsibility to transport the RV to the business site of warranty service. If a mobile servicer is used, this additional convenience fee is the responsibility of the RV owner.

wdk450 said:

I think that they believe it is the OWNER's responsibility to transport the RV to the business site of warranty service.

Click to expand...

In fact, if you read the warranty statement in your trailer manual, you'll find that it is explicitly stated in bold type and underlined:

The owner, at his/her expense, will deliver the recreational vehicle to the dealer or authorized repair location or manufacturing plant for warranty service as designated.

Click to expand...

With respect to the mobile servicer travel charge, when you compare the cost and inconvenience of hitching up and hauling your trailer to the dealer, dropping it, waiting, making a 2nd trip to pick it up, that service charge starts to look more and more reasonable.