Progressive Industries EMS - 50 amp for Bighorn 3670 RL

Mase

Member
I had one of these units in my old 30 amp 5er and it saved me on many occasions when there were park related electrical problems.

I am going to buy one for my 2010 3670 RL. They are pretty simple to install. Cut the electrical supply cable BEFORE THE FUSE PANEL and attach the incoming power cable to the incoming end of the EMS and the other end to the outgoing end of the EMS. I plan to install it in the compartment where the cable connection on the RV is located at the rear left of the RV. It is pretty much weather protected but I will caulk the joints as an added precaution. This location will also allow me to install the LED read-out unit on the wall between the side window and the desk slide, where I can see it from my recliner.

Has anyone installed one of these in another location in the 3670 RL? If so, how did you do the install?

Thanks, Mase
 

Jv75353

Well-known member
I installed one in our Cyclone right behind the access panel in the basement storage area on the same side of the trailer as the fuse box is located. Added a 6 foot piece of cable between the fuse box and the surge protector so I did not have to cut main cable. Did this for two reasons the first being that I could always reatact the original cable back to the fuse box if necessary or if I want to keep the surge protector when I decide to get a new rig. The second reason for adding the 6 foot cable is that it gave me more freedom on where to locate the surge protector, it's right behind the panel and very accssseable. I'm sure you will get feedback from others on this subject, there are a number of owners that have added a cable typically 4 to 6 feet long for similar reasons. Good luck with you project.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
I agree with Jv75353 on the location behind the wall along with an added length of cable.
It just makes sense to mount it there.

Peace
Dave
 

codycarver

Founding Wyoming Chapter Leader-retired
We have a 3670. I installed ours just before the breaker box in the basement. This allowed me to run the readout to the control panel with the rest of the controls. Ours is a 2011. The door for the control panel is glass so I can see it easily and everything is in one location.
 

Mase

Member
We have a 3670. I installed ours just before the breaker box in the basement. This allowed me to run the readout to the control panel with the rest of the controls. Ours is a 2011. The door for the control panel is glass so I can see it easily and everything is in one location.

I appreciate all of the suggestions on a different location for the EMS. I am new to the RV and coming from a toyhauler, we packed everything we could into every available space when we moved from the old to the new. My basement is jammed packed from floor to ceiling, so I don't know what is there. My fuse panel is at the bottom of the wall below the L-shaped kitchen counter and the windowed control panel. I could not see how to access the area without removing the breaker box. I am assuming that Heartland moved the breaker box from the kitchen to the basement from 2010 to 2011. However, it may be possible for me to access the breaker box from the basement by removing the wall panel in the basement. On that wall, there is a 110-volt receptacle, a cable TV connection, a central vac connection, a heating vent and the access to the central vac. I greatly appreciate the suggestions from all who responded.
 

happykraut

Well-known member
I'd like to make a suggestion. Installed mine in the basement with the pigtail. It has been in two of my fivers. When you install it in the basement, mount it on a block of wood. If the basement ever floods, it will be out of the water.
 
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wdk450

Well-known member
I have had my Progressive HW-50C EMS installed in my Bighorn since 2014, been fulltiming since 2015. I am a retired electronics technician of 40+ years experience. Here is info about my setup and how I use it.

I bought my EMS from Progressive at the Quartzite RV tent. I installed it in my storage compartment utilities crawlspace next to the transfer switch. I installed it before the transfer switch so it would not get power produced by my pure sine wave inverter system. I screwed it to the floor.

I noted that the box consists of MOV impulse absorbers, a computer logic circuit board, a large 3 pole electrical contactor, and interconnections. Based on the fact of the contactor being present, and my work experience with large current relays arcing, pitting, and failing at the contacts due to switching heavy current loads, I resolved to put the minimum amount of loading on this hard to access contactor. To that end I turn off the main INSIDE circuit breakers BEFORE disconnecting from shorepower when leaving a campsite, and only turn on those inside breakers ON AFTER connecting to shorepower and turning the campsite breaker ON. This causes the EMS contactor to switch with 0 current load, and the only current load switching to be done is at the inside main breakers. This saves the hard to access, hard to get new parts, EMS contactor relay. I got a spare set of mains breakers at the local Home Depot, and the breaker box is easy to get to for repair exchange of the breakers.

A couple of years ago, in very hot weather, while staying at a park with 30 amp (110 volt) shorepower, the EMS clicked off and was reading "255" volts on both phase readouts of the box. I verified that the supplied power was OK with my DVM, and knew that "255" was indicative of a logic circuit malfunction in the EMS. I contacted Progressive, told them of my electronics experience, and they sent me a new logic board. I found that the old logic board had a swollen capacitor near the bottom of the board. I also felt that although the EMS enclosure was very well sealed against moisture intrusion, this very sealing prevented any cooling air for the logic board components. Since I felt secure about the box not getting wet in the depths of the compartment (I had already replaced the plastic black tank cleaner atmospheric check valve), I decided to drill a row of small holes in the casing above and below the PC board. This should allow some convection air cooling while minimizing moisture exposure. I also mounted the case above the solid floor with some spacer nuts to allow airflow.

Lately I have been getting ERROR 10 (MOVs inop) off and on. Progressive sent me a new MOV pack I have to install. A little more worrisome is the fact that about once a month I get a power shutdown, with immediate reset (after the 30 second delay) with a previous ERROR 7 readout. Since ERROR 7 is a detection of "LINE FREQUENCY HIGH", and I have been in different RV parks on shorepower when these happened, and that a true power frequency shift on a powergrid intertied power source would cause MASSIVE damage to the intertied powergrid infrastructure, I am guessing this alarm by the EMS has to be false, and I probably need yet another logic PC board for the EMS. Lucky there is a lifetime warranty for the system. Right now, this problem is just a nuisance, with the biggest irritation is just how long it takes the satellite TV system to get reset. Also, this IS causing EMS contactor power load arcs.

When I crawl in to replace the MOV board, I plan to also file the contactor relay contacts, and spray them with Cramolyn DeOxIt contact restorer/cleaner.
 
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Mase

Member
I'd like to add one piece of advice. Installed mine in the basement with the pigtail. It has been in two of my fivers. When you install it in the basement, mount it on a block of wood. If the basement ever floods, it will be out of the water.

Great ideas. Thanks!

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I have had my Progressive HW-50C EMS installed in my Bighorn since 2014, been fulltiming since 2015. I am a retired electronics technician of 40+ years experience. Here is info about my setup and how I use it.

I bought my EMS from Progressive at the Quartzite RV tent. I installed it in my storage compartment utilities crawlspace nest to the transfer switch. I installed it before the transfer switch so it would not get power produced by my pure sine wave inverter system. I screwed it to the floor.

I noted that the box consists of MOV impulse absorbers, a computer logic circuit board, a large 3 pole electrical contactor, and interconnections. Based on the fact of the contactor being present, and my work experience with large current relays arcing, pitting, and failing at the contacts due to switching heavy current loads, I resolved to put the minimum amount of loading on this hard to access contactor. To that end I turn off the main INSIDE circuit breakers BEFORE disconnecting from shorepower when leaving a campsite, and only turn on those inside breakers ON AFTER connecting to shorepower and turning the campsite breaker ON. This causes the EMS contactor to switch with 0 current load, and the only current load switching to be done at the inside main breakers. This saves the hard to access, hard to get new parts, EMS contactor relay. I got a spare set of mains breakers at the local Home Depot, and the breaker box is easy to get to for repair exchange of the breakers.

A couple of years ago, in very hot weather, while staying at a park with 30 amp (110 volt) shorepower, the EMS clicked off and was reading "255" volts on both phase readouts of the box. I verified that the supplied power was OK with my DVM, and knew that "255" was indicative of a logic circuit malfunction in the EMS. I contacted Progressive, told them of my electronics experience, and they sent me a new logic board. I found that the old logic board had a swollen capacitor near the bottom of the board. I also felt that although the EMS enclosure was very well sealed against moisture intrusion, this very sealing prevented any cooling air for the logic board components. Since I felt secure about the box not getting wet in the depths of the compartment (I had already replaced the plastic black tank cleaner atmospheric check valve), I decided to drill a row of small holes in the casing above and below the PC board. This should allow some convection air cooling while minimizing moisture exposure. I also mounted the case above the solid floor with some spacer nuts to allow airflow.

Lately I have been getting ERROR 10 (MOVs inop) off and on. Progressive sent me a new MOV pack I have to install. A little more worrisome is the fact that about once a month I get a power shutdown, with immediate reset (after the 30 second delay) with a previous ERROR 7 readout. Since ERROR 7 is a detection of "LINE FREQUENCY HIGH", and I have been in different RV parks on shorepower when these happened, and that a true power frequency shift on a powergrid intertied power source would cause MASSIVE damage to the intertied powergrid infrastructure, I am guessing this alarm by the EMS has to be false, and I probably need yet another logic PC board for the EMS. Lucky there is a lifetime warranty for the system. Right now, this problem is just a nuisance, with the biggest irritation is just how long it takes the satellite TV system to get reset. Also, this IS causing EMS contactor power load arcs.

When I crawl in to replace the MOV board, I plan to also file the contactor relay contacts, and spray them with Cramolyn DeOxIt contact restorer/cleaner.

Sheesh.....and I thought this was going to be simple - my bad.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Most of us with the Progressive EMS - 50A units have not had the problems that Bill has, but he has been FULL timing for a number of years. So do not worry about it. Worst case I will purchase another one and swap it out while the original is being fixed. I don't mind having a spare.
 

codycarver

Founding Wyoming Chapter Leader-retired
I appreciate all of the suggestions on a different location for the EMS. I am new to the RV and coming from a toyhauler, we packed everything we could into every available space when we moved from the old to the new. My basement is jammed packed from floor to ceiling, so I don't know what is there. My fuse panel is at the bottom of the wall below the L-shaped kitchen counter and the windowed control panel. I could not see how to access the area without removing the breaker box. I am assuming that Heartland moved the breaker box from the kitchen to the basement from 2010 to 2011. However, it may be possible for me to access the breaker box from the basement by removing the wall panel in the basement. On that wall, there is a 110-volt receptacle, a cable TV connection, a central vac connection, a heating vent and the access to the central vac. I greatly appreciate the suggestions from all who responded.

I should been more specific. I placed it behind the basement wall and ran the wire for the readout to the control panel through a cavity next to the stairs.....super easy.
 

Mase

Member
I should been more specific. I placed it behind the basement wall and ran the wire for the readout to the control panel through a cavity next to the stairs.....super easy.

So, what you are saying is that you have the same exact situation in the basement of your 2011 as in my 2010 and that you removed the basement wall I referred to and installed the EMS unit there? I will check that out when I am in a position to empty my basement. I will look for the cavity next to the stairs as it is a great idea to have the LED located with all of the other controls. Someone suggested mounting the EMS on a block of wood in case of a basement flood (yuch!). Is there enough room for that? Also, I plan to permanently install it as I will let the EMS go with the RV. I am always a private seller (and private buyer) and the EMS becomes another selling factor and proof that I am concerning about preventative maintenance and have taken good care of the RV. So, I am simply going to cut the incoming wire before it enters the fuse box and connect the EMS at each end. I have read that I will need to get some kind of plug for my Yamaha 4500 iSE inverter generator to use it with the EMS. I don't remember needing that with my old 30 amp EMS unit in my last RV and never had a problem using the Yamaha. I will be in Quartzsite and will buy the EMS unit at the Progressive Industries booth when the big tent opens in January.

Thanks for your advice and help.
 

codycarver

Founding Wyoming Chapter Leader-retired
So, what you are saying is that you have the same exact situation in the basement of your 2011 as in my 2010 and that you removed the basement wall I referred to and installed the EMS unit there? I will check that out when I am in a position to empty my basement. I will look for the cavity next to the stairs as it is a great idea to have the LED located with all of the other controls. Someone suggested mounting the EMS on a block of wood in case of a basement flood (yuch!). Is there enough room for that? Also, I plan to permanently install it as I will let the EMS go with the RV. I am always a private seller (and private buyer) and the EMS becomes another selling factor and proof that I am concerning about preventative maintenance and have taken good care of the RV. So, I am simply going to cut the incoming wire before it enters the fuse box and connect the EMS at each end. I have read that I will need to get some kind of plug for my Yamaha 4500 iSE inverter generator to use it with the EMS. I don't remember needing that with my old 30 amp EMS unit in my last RV and never had a problem using the Yamaha. I will be in Quartzsite and will buy the EMS unit at the Progressive Industries booth when the big tent opens in January.

Thanks for your advice and help.


When you get the wall off you should see some studs for the stairs and wall. I mounted ours to that on a piece of plywood. Bernie's idea with the pigtail is right on. If it should ever fail getting it out is a piece of cake. As far as the the generator goes I don't know of any special plug. I've used mine without issue and if need be you can over ride the EMS at the readout by switch.
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
I'd like to make a suggestion. Installed mine in the basement with the pigtail. It has been in two of my fivers. When you install it in the basement, mount it on a block of wood. If the basement ever floods, it will be out of the water.


Any chance you have any pictures of this?? :)
 

LBR

Well-known member
The plug is a Progressive Industries $20 unit that ties the generator's neutral and ground together.
 

happykraut

Well-known member
Someone suggested mounting the EMS on a block of wood in case of a basement flood (yuch!). Is there enough room for that?

Thanks for your advice and help.
If you have room for the EMS, than you have room for a block of wood. The wood is the same size as the block.
 

Az_Ernie

Well-known member
When you get the wall off you should see some studs for the stairs and wall. I mounted ours to that on a piece of plywood. Bernie's idea with the pigtail is right on. If it should ever fail getting it out is a piece of cake. As far as the the generator goes I don't know of any special plug. I've used mine without issue and if need be you can over ride the EMS at the readout by switch.
After installing our Progressive Industries hard wired 50amp EMS, when connecting our Champion 3500 watt portable generator, the EMS prevented the generator from providing power because of a detected ground problem. After some online research, I discovered that many portable generators require a special plug that provides a proper Ground-Neutral bond for the EMS to allow power to be applied. The following link explains this in much greater detail and in the comments section, provides a link with a list of generator models that require this special plug.

http://noshockzone.org/generator-ground-neutral-bonding/
 
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JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Originally, my dealer put it behind the breaker panel in our 2009 BH3670, with the display in the switch cabinet above the counter. I've since moved it and the converter to the side of the framing for the bedroom steps so they're not under any water lines. The converter was under the anti-siphon valve for the black tank flusher which failed last summer and would have flooded the converter. I cut removable access panels in the basement walls so I can easily get to both the converter/EMS mounting and the back of the UDC.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

CoveredWagon

Well-known member
I'd like to make a suggestion. Installed mine in the basement with the pigtail. It has been in two of my fivers. When you install it in the basement, mount it on a block of wood. If the basement ever floods, it will be out of the water.

If you get water that high you've got a lot of other problems

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