Where to run drain pan line on a 3875FB

Georgia_Biker

Well-known member
I have just purchased an Ariiston Stackable Washer & Dryer. As I am looking inside the closet it seems the only place to run the drain line from the pan is directly through the floor.
Has anyone done and install on a 3875FB?

The rest looks pretty simple - I hope! Any comments?
 

farside291

Well-known member
I believe the raceway in the back of the closet runs to the left behind the tub and you can run it that way and get down into the front storage area.
 

Georgia_Biker

Well-known member
I believe the raceway in the back of the closet runs to the left behind the tub and you can run it that way and get down into the front storage area.
g

OK-

Thanks for your and Jim's reply. I am going to check that out. Do you have an opinion about going straight through the floor with an exit in the gooseneck area and let the water dump straight to the ground? Of course I would need to seal around the openings.
 

farside291

Well-known member
It would be definitely be easier and how it would look versus running the drain out the bottom of the front storage compartment. Oh and one more thing, the hardest part of putting the stack dryer in the closet is hooking up the vent hose. If I had to do it again, before I attached the outside vent I would attach the dryer vent hose to the dryer first then put it through the hole and bolt the dryer in place. Go outside attach the hose to the vent and attach it to the outside wall with screws and calk leaving the inside cover plate for the vent not installed. Hooking the vent hose with the dryer leaning forward was tough!
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
g
Do you have an opinion about going straight through the floor with an exit in the gooseneck area and let the water dump straight to the ground? Of course I would need to seal around the openings.
Be aware that there is some structural steel running across in the area you propose to run your drain.
Other than that I see no problem going straight down.
Investigate before you drill a hole.

Peace
Dave
 

Georgia_Biker

Well-known member
It would be definitely be easier and how it would look versus running the drain out the bottom of the front storage compartment. Oh and one more thing, the hardest part of putting the stack dryer in the closet is hooking up the vent hose. If I had to do it again, before I attached the outside vent I would attach the dryer vent hose to the dryer first then put it through the hole and bolt the dryer in place. Go outside attach the hose to the vent and attach it to the outside wall with screws and calk leaving the inside cover plate for the vent not installed. Hooking the vent hose with the dryer leaning forward was tough!

That's what makes this forum so great - that is great advice. I am taking notes and making pictures of my install so I can share when done.

- - - Updated - - -

Be aware that there is some structural steel running across in the area you propose to run your drain.
Other than that I see no problem going straight down.
Investigate before you drill a hole.

Peace
Dave

Thanks Dave-

I am still looking at running along the rails to the basement weld if I can figure if I have enough access to pull the water line through - I don't like drilling holes through the skin. The vent hole will be challenge enough.
 

Jim_Hull

Well-known member
It would be definitely be easier and how it would look versus running the drain out the bottom of the front storage compartment. Oh and one more thing, the hardest part of putting the stack dryer in the closet is hooking up the vent hose. If I had to do it again, before I attached the outside vent I would attach the dryer vent hose to the dryer first then put it through the hole and bolt the dryer in place. Go outside attach the hose to the vent and attach it to the outside wall with screws and calk leaving the inside cover plate for the vent not installed. Hooking the vent hose with the dryer leaning forward was tough!

I will second the information about installing the dryer vent. That was definitely the hardest part of my install. Everything else was fairly straightforward. Just use a stud finder to find the outer wall studs to locate your vent hole. I drilled from the inside until my pilot bit barely went through the outer skin then went outside, ran the drill in reverse with the hole saw to score the fiberglass, and then completed the hole. All went well and no cracked fiberglass. I know my unit is different, but I ran my drain hose through a chase at the back of my closet that went to my dresser. I drilled a hole in the floor under the dresser and took my drain line into the LP gas compartment and down the inside of my front jack. You can't even tell it is there. Remember to put some steel wool or a pantyhose over the end of your drain line outside to prevent dirt dobbers from clogging your line.
 

lynndiwagoner

Well-known member
Most people won't like this response but here goes: I got to thinking about the ultimate function of the overflow drain, which is to provide drainage if the washer leaks. I ran the pan drain line along side the main drain and angle drilled a hole in it that would allow the flexible drain line to be inserted into the main drain line while laying parallel to it. I then sealed the whole thing thoroughly with silicone. I've never had any smell or problems with this and I'm sure it will serve the "ultimate function." I'm now ready for the discussion.......
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Most people won't like this response but here goes: I got to thinking about the ultimate function of the overflow drain, which is to provide drainage if the washer leaks. I ran the pan drain line along side the main drain and angle drilled a hole in it that would allow the flexible drain line to be inserted into the main drain line while laying parallel to it. I then sealed the whole thing thoroughly with silicone. I've never had any smell or problems with this and I'm sure it will serve the "ultimate function." I'm now ready for the discussion.......

Well, it's probably fairly unlikely, but I suppose if you overfilled your gray tank while taking a shower, since the washer tray is about the same height as the shower floor, it might be possible for water to back up into the washer's overflow tray.
 

Georgia_Biker

Well-known member
Well, it's probably fairly unlikely, but I suppose if you overfilled your gray tank while taking a shower, since the washer tray is about the same height as the shower floor, it might be possible for water to back up into the washer's overflow tray.

Yo. ur thoughts please-

I have completed installing the drain pan hose. I actually ran it along next to the frame and under the shower and out the shower drain hole into the front well. I used a 1/2" ID water hose connected to the pan with a 34-1/2" burr. To test I put water in the pan to make sure it would drain. It drains OK but, I am concerned in the event of a major leak the1/2" hose will not evacuate fast enough.

I have not installed the washer yet - should I change to the standard hose?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
My drain is ½" PEX and from what I have read most drain lines are ½".
It is not a concern for me.

Peace
Dave
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Yo. ur thoughts please-

I have completed installing the drain pan hose. I actually ran it along next to the frame and under the shower and out the shower drain hole into the front well. I used a 1/2" ID water hose connected to the pan with a 34-1/2" burr. To test I put water in the pan to make sure it would drain. It drains OK but, I am concerned in the event of a major leak the1/2" hose will not evacuate fast enough.

I have not installed the washer yet - should I change to the standard hose?

Not sure what you mean by "standard hose". Our washing machine was installed at the factory and they used 1/2" tubing for the overflow pan drain.

On our Splendide stackable, the fill cycle runs for maybe a minute. A very good water flow would be 5 gallons/minute, so the washer might use up to 5 gallons of water when it fills. Often less because water flow is less. Our unit has a timed water fill. If the water level is too low to wash, operation stops. So in a worst case it might dump up to 5 gallons into the tray and then stop running because no water is in the tub.

I think the overflow pan probably holds around 2.5 gallons. If the fill cycle adds 5 gallons in a minute and your drain line drains 2.5 gallons per minute, the tray would probably still contain the entire leak. If not, your carpet would need to be dried, but I don't think it would be a catastrophic situation. And of course the worst case scenario is very unlikely.

Winterizing the washing machine correctly is key to preventing leaks. Our Winterization Guide has instructions. In a mild climate, you could use compressed air with confidence, adding a little antifreeze for the drain and p-trap. For very cold climates, you might want to follow the antifreeze method all the way.
 

Georgia_Biker

Well-known member
Thanks Dan and Dave-

I think sometimes we tend to "overanalyze" (is that a word?) situations. Like you said Dan - you will only need the drain pan when you don't have one.
I am taking pictures of my complete install and will put together an install post for a FB3875 when done.
 
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