Ok, so I replaced my old WFCO 9865 converter with a progressive Dynamics 70 Amp model. Works great, but negative lead back to battery is too short. i'm assuming it terminates at a block next to the battery, and from there to the neg post. But cant verify this since it gets lost in the undercarriage and weather blanket. Can anyone give me the nod on this, or could it go off in another direction? ive got this new converter working right now with a wire tap and electrical tape and its not too safe for extended use. BTW, new forum user, but have been reading posts for some time. U guys are the best
Converter wiring back to battery
- Thread starter Excalibur
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi Excalibur,
I think that the negative wire from the converter and the negative from the battery may both go to a frame ground, attached either by a screw, or to a ground terminal block. It may vary by year/model/floor plan. So if you would tell us what rig you have, you might be able to get a precise answer from someone with the same trailer.
I think that the negative wire from the converter and the negative from the battery may both go to a frame ground, attached either by a screw, or to a ground terminal block. It may vary by year/model/floor plan. So if you would tell us what rig you have, you might be able to get a precise answer from someone with the same trailer.
Thanks for the reply danemayer,
I have a 2011 Elkridge29RKSA, and yeah, There is a connection on the frame by the battery that has 2 white terminations. One is from neg battery. Just cant believe the other end would go directly to the converter. My luck would have it disappearing magically and weaving around the coach a couple times. If anyone knows for sure, then I can just go buy 15 feet of no6 and rewire. Thanks again.
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Like Dan said the (-) ground wire just needs to be grounded to the frame. You do not need to run it all the way to the batteries.
Garypowell
Well-known member
Don't think you have to take a new wire from new converter all the way back to battery or frame connected.
Install converter where here you want it and buy enough wire to go from there to the original end. Any big box store would have the right connector to splice the two wires together. Some, that are expensive, have their own shielding while others you tape over them.
Install converter where here you want it and buy enough wire to go from there to the original end. Any big box store would have the right connector to splice the two wires together. Some, that are expensive, have their own shielding while others you tape over them.
wdk450
Well-known member
It is my personal preference that any large current cable be soldered as well as crimp spliced if at all possible. Many consumer level crimp connections are just not up to the job. The professional crimp tools cost hundreds of dollars. Solder actually permeates the crystalline matrix of the 2 metal ends to make a better connection and also provides an airtight seal against corrosion. A solder tip on a propane torch works better for cables.
Ok, Frame ground it is, I will trace it back as far as it will go, terminate it to frame ground, test for continuity, and fire it up again. Thanks guys, I kinda figured I was over thinking this.
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