Residential Fridge
- Thread starter wryebread
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi wryebread,
Congratulations on the new Gateway and welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.
If by "residential size", you mean "residential refrigerator" like you would find in a home, it runs on 120V AC only. The traditional RV gas absorption refrigerator offers a choice of running on 120V AC or 12V DC plus propane.
Assuming you start a trip with the refrigerator already cold, when you unplug from shore power, there's an automatic transfer switch that will change over so the refrigerator will be powered by your trailer batteries. There's an inverter in between the batteries and transfer switch that does the voltage conversion from 12V DC to 120V AC.
If the inverter isn't already ON, you'll have to use the remote start for the inverter to turn it ON before unplugging from shore power. Then when you do unplug, the refrigerator should remain ON. Other than that, it's all pretty much automatic. Your dealer should have explained this to you when you had your pre-delivery walk through.
As for boon docking, your batteries will probably not last for more than a day without an electrical source recharging them. You'll probably want to consider either solar panels or a generator.
We have an owner-written Residential Refrigerator Guide that provides additional information.
Congratulations on the new Gateway and welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.
If by "residential size", you mean "residential refrigerator" like you would find in a home, it runs on 120V AC only. The traditional RV gas absorption refrigerator offers a choice of running on 120V AC or 12V DC plus propane.
Assuming you start a trip with the refrigerator already cold, when you unplug from shore power, there's an automatic transfer switch that will change over so the refrigerator will be powered by your trailer batteries. There's an inverter in between the batteries and transfer switch that does the voltage conversion from 12V DC to 120V AC.
If the inverter isn't already ON, you'll have to use the remote start for the inverter to turn it ON before unplugging from shore power. Then when you do unplug, the refrigerator should remain ON. Other than that, it's all pretty much automatic. Your dealer should have explained this to you when you had your pre-delivery walk through.
As for boon docking, your batteries will probably not last for more than a day without an electrical source recharging them. You'll probably want to consider either solar panels or a generator.
We have an owner-written Residential Refrigerator Guide that provides additional information.
Traveling your batteries should be charging from your tow vehicle. I installed a generator where I can charge my batteries and/or run the fridge as needed if I don't have shore power and not towing. I've read that people have installed a robust solar system that will keep the batteries charged well enough to be able to keep your refrigerator working. On another note I've nothing but trouble with a residential refrigerator. I'm not sure that I would get one again.
Crumgater
Well-known member
We're looking at changing/upgrading units... so... this is an issue we're looking into... what I've found out:
1. there's a move to go to residential fridges to remove the risk of propane fires; apparently the propane fridges are a higher cause of trailer fires than any other source?
2. manufacturer's expect you to park where you can plug in... boondocking is not something they plan for
3. 1x12v battery will power a fridge for a few hours
4. 4x6v deep cycle (golf cart) batteries might power a fridge for 8-10 hours (i.e. over night)
5. some people have luck turning the fridge off at night and just not opening it, and it will stay cold until morning and they restart it along with the generators
6. if you boondock with a residential fridge - and don't have lots of solar, plan on running the generator... a LOT
1. there's a move to go to residential fridges to remove the risk of propane fires; apparently the propane fridges are a higher cause of trailer fires than any other source?
2. manufacturer's expect you to park where you can plug in... boondocking is not something they plan for
3. 1x12v battery will power a fridge for a few hours
4. 4x6v deep cycle (golf cart) batteries might power a fridge for 8-10 hours (i.e. over night)
5. some people have luck turning the fridge off at night and just not opening it, and it will stay cold until morning and they restart it along with the generators
6. if you boondock with a residential fridge - and don't have lots of solar, plan on running the generator... a LOT
carl.swoyer
Well-known member
I currently have a norcold frig. However my last fifth wheel had an 18 cube residential frig. While dry camping I conserved energy by turning off our frig. I purchased a remote thermometer and placed it inside the fridge. This allows me to monitor the interior temperature with out opening the doors. So that being said off time was after breakfast four about 4 to 5 hours and again we would turn the fridge off when we went to bed. If we woke up at night we could visually check the interior temperature and if needed turn the fridge on. This worked for us . Never had spoiled or defrosted food. We used a 220 watt solar panel with the morning star duo solar charge controller allows me to split the incoming charge to each battery bank. My Magnum ms2818 is the inverter of choice for me. It can slap a bulk charge on my batteries in short order. If the sky is cloudy resulting in poor solar I would run the Onan twice per day or as needed.
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