12 volt DC current

pjmaynar

Member
I have a 2013 Heartland Big Country 3450TS. I just installed (2) 6V Trojan T150 golf cart batteries. I am totally new to the RV world. Yes, I am starting out big. I just purchased a 2016 F350 to pull this bad boy with. So, now that I have it at home and the batteries are finally working correctly, what should I be able to run off the house batteries? Also, what switches do I need to flip in order to get such items to work (i.e. ceiling fan in LR, lights, etc.). Just not familiar with this stuff. Any help for this greenhorn would be very helpful. Thanks in advance to anyone that responds.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi pjmaynar,

Some things run on 12V DC. Other things run on 120V AC.

The water heater can be run in either mode, when on 12V it uses propane as the main fuel source. If you have a dual mode refrigerator, you can select to run it on 12V with propane, or on AUTO, where it will use 120V AC when plugged into shore power and switch automatically to 12V and propane when you disconnect.

Ceiling lights and bathroom lights, along with exterior lights, are usually 12V DC.

The furnace is 12V DC and propane.

The water pump is 12V DC.

Slides and landing gear are 12V DC.

Exhaust fan in the bathroom and kitchen should be 12V DC.

Air conditioners need 120V AC.

The 4-blade ceiling fan and its light need 120V AC.

Microwave, TV, toaster, coffee pot, hair dryer, washer/dryer and anything plugged into an outlet all need 120V AC.

When you're plugged into shore power at a campground, all of this happens automatically, and the batteries will be recharged automatically.

If your intent is to boondock and use the batteries to power everything including the devices that need 120V AC, you'll need to install an inverter to convert 12V DC to 120V AC. And you'll need a power source to recharge the batteries.
 

pjmaynar

Member
Dan,
Thanks very much for your reply. You have confirmed what I thought I knew. I need to do some more investigating. The slides and landing gear work fine; however I do not seem to be able to get the lights to cooperate. There is probably a switch that needs to be flipped somewhere that I just have not found yet. I have filled the propane tanks. I know that the batteries are good. I have a dual mode refrigerator as you refer to below. The control panel on it is not operating. I would like to check it out as well as the water heater. Is there somewhere/something I need to do to direct 12vDC to the fridge and other stuff?
I really appreciate your assistance,
Thank you,
Jim


Hi pjmaynar,

Some things run on 12V DC. Other things run on 120V AC.

The water heater can be run in either mode, when on 12V it uses propane as the main fuel source. If you have a dual mode refrigerator, you can select to run it on 12V with propane, or on AUTO, where it will use 120V AC when plugged into shore power and switch automatically to 12V and propane when you disconnect.

Ceiling lights and bathroom lights, along with exterior lights, are usually 12V DC.

The furnace is 12V DC and propane.

The water pump is 12V DC.

Slides and landing gear are 12V DC.

Exhaust fan in the bathroom and kitchen should be 12V DC.

Air conditioners need 120V AC.

The 4-blade ceiling fan and its light need 120V AC.

Microwave, TV, toaster, coffee pot, hair dryer, washer/dryer and anything plugged into an outlet all need 120V AC.

When you're plugged into shore power at a campground, all of this happens automatically, and the batteries will be recharged automatically.

If your intent is to boondock and use the batteries to power everything including the devices that need 120V AC, you'll need to install an inverter to convert 12V DC to 120V AC. And you'll need a power source to recharge the batteries.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Jim,

If you have multiple 12V DC devices not working, the next question is whether you're plugged into shore power. If so, the Power Converter should be supplying 12V DC to those devices, along with the batteries. If that's your situation, you may not have any output from the Power Converter, which changes 120V AC into 12V DC.

If you're not plugged into shore power and are having a problem with the interior 12V DC devices, the path from the batteries is open. There's a 12V DC mini-circuit breaker that may have tripped. It's located on a row of mini-breakers located near the batteries and is likely covered by a red rubber boot. One breaker has a teeny-tiny reset button that needs to be pressed. I've attached a couple of pictures to help. Note that your buss bar arrangement is likely to be different.

If this doesn't help, take a look at our owner-written 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic Guide. It will step you through figuring out the problem.
 

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Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
Does you RV have a battery cutoff switch? The prior owner might have wired it to allow landing gear to still work if switch was in "off" position, but then all other 12v items would not work.

Oregon_Camper
 

pjmaynar

Member
Dan,
YOU ARE THE BEST! Thanks so much for your help. Your suggestion regarding the "tiny reset" button was exactly what the doctor order. I pressed that little sucker and everything is working. Thanks again for your help. Now it is time for our first shakedown camping trip. WOO HOO!
Dan is the man!
Thanks,
Jim
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
By the way, always trip off the breakers before disconnecting from the power post. If you do not, you may have to find and repress that little bugger of a reset button.
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
Dan,
YOU ARE THE BEST! Thanks so much for your help. Your suggestion regarding the "tiny reset" button was exactly what the doctor order. I pressed that little sucker and everything is working. Thanks again for your help. Now it is time for our first shakedown camping trip. WOO HOO!
Dan is the man!
Thanks,
Jim

Dan has saved MANY of us this is information....he is the best!! :eek:
 

pjmaynar

Member
OK guys, one more issue. I let the refer/freezer run for about 3 1/2 hours. The freezer came down from a high of 77 to 65. The refer did not budge from 77. I put a small fan in the bottom of the refer to no avail. Any suggestions? Not sure why the freezer is working but the refer is not. All lights are working and the exhaust fan in the BR is working. Just no refer.
Thanks to everyone,
Jimbo
 

danemayer

Well-known member
OK guys, one more issue. I let the refer/freezer run for about 3 1/2 hours. The freezer came down from a high of 77 to 65. The refer did not budge from 77. I put a small fan in the bottom of the refer to no avail. Any suggestions? Not sure why the freezer is working but the refer is not. All lights are working and the exhaust fan in the BR is working. Just no refer.
Thanks to everyone,
Jimbo

Check again in the morning. Gas absorption refrigerators take a long time to cool. The freezer is first in line in the cooling unit, so it cools better, earlier.
 

pjmaynar

Member
Thanks again, I turned everything off for the evening because I did not want to run down my batteries. I will try again tomorrow for a longer time. I kind of thought that I was being impatient but was unsure. I should be getting a 50 amp to 110 volt connector soon. Then I can let it run and see what we have.
Really appreciate your knowledge.
Thanks so much,
Jimbo
 
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