Electrical problem, 2014 Landmark/Grand Canyon

Arrived at a new campground and hooked up to 50amp. No problems until the the next morning when we woke up and the Cheap Heat was only blowing air, which is an indication of getting only 30 amps. Maintenance checked pedestal, no issues. Checked behind the circuit box and only getting 123v instead of expected 240v, (red/black) at 50 amp breaker so breaker only giving power to one leg. Traced back to the transfer switch where input is also only 123v for red/black (123v black/ neutral, 0v red/neutral). So problem must be between transfer switch and pedestal, which includes power cord, and wire through RV to transfer switch. There is suppose to be a junction box near where power cord comes into RV, but haven't seen so far, I assume it is where power cord reel is, but do not know an easy way to access it. There are two junction boxes under slide, but it is black/white/green wires, not black/white/red and is not 6 gauge wire that should be used for main power wires. Also cannot use propane furnace since converter is on the leg with no power, so batteries are now depleted (obviously we do not have a generator).
What is the best way to proceed? Not near any RV shops. 2014 Landmark, Grand Canyon.
Thanks for any assistance.


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Hi Seren,

I think you're going to have to poke around at the cord reel and verify the connection there. And I think I recall one report over the years of the connection in the reel failing.

If you can't resolve it yourself, and there's a hardware store nearby, you can purchase parts to build an adapter from a 20 amp receptacle to either a 30 amp or 15 amp plug. That'll let you plug the Power Converter's dedicated 20 amp plug into an extension cord that runs to the campground pedestal. That'll get your batteries back.

An easy approach would be to buy the largest battery charger Walmart has and connect it to your battery.

Pull the power cord all the way out and you'll see a cover plate on the reel. You can remove it and investagate more there. I think the cord goes straight from the reel connection to the transfer switch. NO junction box in between.

Hope this helps
Jerrod

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Thanks for the advice

As a temporary solution to get heat in this chilly Pocono's weather, I switched the wire for the converter from the L2 circuit breaker (not working) with the washer/dryer L1 circuit breaker (working). Now the converter works on L1, batteries are charging, so now have propane heat and hot water, but my washer/dryer is now on L2 and does not work. Currently on L1 (working) is: residential refrigerator, GFCI, living room side outlets, microwave, converter, bedroom outlets, and main AC. L2 (not working) is: fan, bedroom AC, fireplace, washer/dryer, water heater (electric), and Yeti. Can live with this until the L2 power issue is solved.



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Finally figured out the problem, it is where the power cable connects to the roller. In addition, the nut for the red wire is frozen and the whole nut/bolt turns. So the only way to fix it is to replace the roller 1k for the part. Might be easier to make a place for the power cable to plug into (like less expensive units have), but then after unplugging, then roll the cable as usual.




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Not a very good picture but you should be able to drill out the 4 rivets remove the bulk head plate and redo it with a new bolt.
Make your own....

Hope this helps
Jerrod

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jesstalkn said:

Not a very good picture but you should be able to drill out the 4 rivets remove the bulk head plate and redo it with a new bolt.
Make your own....

Hope this helps
Jerrod

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Click to expand...

Good advice! That's exactly what I'd do.

Ernie

Interesting idea. Will give it a shot. Anyone know for sure what is on the the side? Right know, at least I have 30 amp (1-50 amp leg).

Here is a better picture.



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