Antifreeze leaking into fresh water tank when Winterizing

oldelmer1

Well-known member
I was winterizing the other day and when I turned the pump on, the first gallon of antifreeze disappeared instantly. Then I noticed that the fresh water drain started dripping, so I went and smelled it and it was antifreeze.

I called Heartland and he said its the either the check valve that's built into the pump or the Anderson valve. That I would have to have my dealer check which one it is.

I just got back from camping for 3 weeks and no water had leaked into the fresh water tank with the Anderson valve in CITY position.

I asked where the check valve was, and he said its built into the pump.

So, if I get a shark bite check valve, where would I put it?

Heartland couldn't tell me where it would need to go.

Thanks, Tom
 
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danemayer

Well-known member
Hi oldelmer1,

Take a look at our owner-written Fresh Tank Fills by Itself guide. It details exactly how to test to determine whether the problem is in the 4-way Anderson Valve, or in the pump's internal check valve and how to correct the problem.
 

oldelmer1

Well-known member
Thanks Dan,

I see where it says to add a check valve on the suction side of the pump.

So to be sure, that's the side between the pump and the fresh water tank? CORRECT????

I did take off the right side hose on the anderson valve and antifreeze dripped out.

BUT, it doesn't leak into the fresh water tank in CITY position, only in WINTERIZE position.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Thanks Dan,

I see where it says to add a check valve on the suction side of the pump.

So to be sure, that's the side between the pump and the fresh water tankl? CORRECT????
YES. That's also the side with the clear plastic bowl.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

TedS

Well-known member
Don't put the check valve in the suction line. That will add an additional pressure drop to getting water into the pump when the pump is used. The pressure drop to the pump is probably around 1.5 to 2 psi. The check valve will add another 3 to 5 psi.

Put the check valve in the pump outlet line. Adding the pressure drop of the check valve will not matter nearly as much to pump performance.

In the alternative, clean or repair the pump pumping chamber and check valves.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Don't put the check valve in the suction line. That will add an additional pressure drop to getting water into the pump when the pump is used. The pressure drop to the pump is probably around 1.5 to 2 psi. The check valve will add another 3 to 5 psi.

Put the check valve in the pump outlet line. Adding the pressure drop of the check valve will not matter nearly as much to pump performance.

In the alternative, clean or repair the pump pumping chamber and check valves.

Putting the check valve on the output side when the pump's internal check valve leaks, can cause the pump to cycle on and off trying to maintain pressure.


  1. You close the faucet,
  2. the pump builds pressure in the line,
  3. the pump's pressure sensor signals the pump to turn off.
  4. Water leaks backward through the pump's internal check valve.
  5. Pressure decreases on the output side of the pump.
  6. The pump's pressure switch signals the pump to start again.
  7. go to step #2 and repeat forever.

The elapsed time in this cycle depends on how fast the water leaks backward through the pump. With a slow leak, the pump will cycle infrequently. With a fast leak, it'll cycle all the time.
 

oldelmer1

Well-known member
A friend of mine came over with his spare Anderson Valve and we replaced mine and now all is well.

Called Heartland and they are sending me a new one.

Thanks everyone for your help.
 

TedS

Well-known member
Putting the check valve on the output side when the pump's internal check valve leaks, can cause the pump to cycle on and off trying to maintain pressure.


  1. You close the faucet,
  2. the pump builds pressure in the line,
  3. the pump's pressure sensor signals the pump to turn off.
  4. Water leaks backward through the pump's internal check valve.
  5. Pressure decreases on the output side of the pump.
  6. The pump's pressure switch signals the pump to start again.
  7. go to step #2 and repeat forever.

The elapsed time in this cycle depends on how fast the water leaks backward through the pump. With a slow leak, the pump will cycle infrequently. With a fast leak, it'll cycle all the time.

Fair enough. Either way the check valve is a bandaid for fixing the pump.
 

porthole

Retired
I'll still run with a google search as being a 1st indicator of issues :rolleyes:



Deb just found on another website.


Kantleak Valves Updates
After my issues with this valve and all of the those on our Facebook site having issues with this valve, I have some good news. Anderson Brass Company is tired of all of the not so nice calls about this basically, plastic junk valve, and will have 100% brass valve available in the next couple of months. I visited with a wonderful young man at the company that gave me the whole update. It will also be available on Amazon too in the next few months. Anderson Brass has taken the new units to Indiana for the RV companies to begin using them in new coaches. If you are ordering a new coach make sure you request the new brass 4 way valve. Otherwise you might end up with old plastic inventory. This company heard our plea and responded. Our concerns in this particular case were heard. I want to personally thank Mike at Anderson Brass with the update and very good news.
 

oldelmer1

Well-known member
Well I just received my valve from Heartland, but I was surprised its just the rebuilding kit.

Any secrets to rebuilding one???

THANKS.
 
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