Propane use

Flooringit

Well-known member
Inhave a cyclone 4000. And I was wondering how long the propane bottles will last. I have theblropane for water heater. And the furnace. Used the oven one time and I went through both tanks in 5 days. And it's not been really all that cold. 50s and 30s at night. Water heater electric element is no good. I will get a new one. I just figured the propane would be cheaper to heat with. Im guessing not.
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
Depends upon what you keep the inside temps set to. If it is getting into the 30's at night and you are set in the 70s it won't take long to burn through both tanks. You will want to keep the furnace going to keep heat in the underbelly and prevent freezing, especially if you get below 30 but if you are hooked to shore power adding a ceramic heater or two will allow you to cut the furnace down some, save propane and still keep heat to the underbelly. And, yes get the electric water heater element fixed. The heater sucks a fair amount of propane trying to keep water warm.

The garage is not insulated. If you don't need the door to the living area open from the garage, close them. If you need that open, add a ceramic heater to that area but it is best to close it off.
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
5 days with those temps is about right. We can go through a bottle every 2.5 days, in those temps. We have a third bottle and rotate the three.


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Flooringit

Well-known member
Gosh I'd never thought that. Lol well I may move to a part where electric is free use ceramic a lot. I'm starting in some land I own, figured propane was cheaper then the electric heaters s
 

Flooringit

Well-known member
I seen that the element is on the backside not the front. I have looked several times. I still don't see it. Anyone have a pic. I'm trying to figure out if I have to take whole heater out or if I can manage to get to it. Model is atwood gc10a-4e
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I seen that the element is on the backside not the front. I have looked several times. I still don't see it. Anyone have a pic. I'm trying to figure out if I have to take whole heater out or if I can manage to get to it. Model is atwood gc10a-4e

You may be able to get to it by removing the rear wall of the pass through basement storage (assuming the water heater is slightly to the rear of the storage).

I think Atwood units have a more durable electric heating element than Suburban units. So you may have a problem getting power to the element. There's probably a 12V relay that sends 120V AC to the heating element when you operate the electric switch inside the control panel.

You might start by checking the circuit breaker for the water heater (in the main panel). If that's ok, check the 12V DC fuse that supplies power through the control panel switch, to the relay on the water heater. Check voltage at each terminal on the switch while operating the switch to see if the switch is getting 12V and when operated, if the 12V is getting through the switch. If that's all ok, look on the back side of the water heater for a junction box or relay where both 12V DC and 120V AC wires come together and check them out.
 

Flooringit

Well-known member
Previous owner told me it didn't work cause he turned it on with out having water in it. I ah e noticed the switch in the panel lights up when I hit it. But there's another switch outside the panel that's red and it never turns on.

Not to sound mean. Previous owner doesn't seem to be the smartest guy around. I guess I should double check it. I have taken then panel off and can see the black junction box but I'm. Not sure I'll be able to reach it. I am gonna take the middle one off and try laying in the basement see if it's easier to reach.
 
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Flooringit

Well-known member
Looks like I'm just gonna pull it out and re do a few things. The tank started humming over night. Hadn't don't it till last night. I'm guessing the check valve has got a problem. I've read online they have problems. I'm just gonna put a ball valve in it. I'm also gonna get new drain plug and element put in. Any other suggestions? I only want to take this out once lol. It's getting ready to get cold
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Looks like I'm just gonna pull it out and re do a few things. The tank started humming over night. Hadn't don't it till last night. I'm guessing the check valve has got a problem. I've read online they have problems. I'm just gonna put a ball valve in it. I'm also gonna get new drain plug and element put in. Any other suggestions? I only want to take this out once lol. It's getting ready to get cold

If you have a single bypass valve, there's a check valve, usually on the hot output of the water heater. I'd recommend sticking with a check valve.
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
Fridge use is about 1.5 pounds per day.

Furnace use is about 1.5 pounds per hour, it does not matter what temperature it is set on it matters how long it runs.

Water Heater is about .5 pounds per hour.

Stove/oven not sure but it is in the range of .25 pounds per hour.
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
it does not matter what temperature it is set on it matters how long it runs.

You might have to clarify that one for me. The higher the temp the longer the run to get there or maintain.

Since temps in a trailer drop much faster than they do in your house, if it is set at 75 in the trailer it is going to be on ALOT trying to maintain that temp.
 

Geodude

Well-known member
I always presume the furnace will burn a pound an hour. This past weekend we were camping in cold weather, where the temps dropped down to -12C and between the furnace and the water heater we burned through two 30 pound tanks in three days. The trailer was heated to between 18C and 20C (in an attempt to keep the underbelly heated, which didn't work completely as we had a freeze up apparently in the bottom of the freshwater tank around the pickup line).
 

Geodude

Well-known member
Not in our case, we don't do much cold weather camping. That said, next summer I'll install a bit of heat tape and a heating pad to the fresh water tank.
 
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