Torque 396 with three season wall - doesn't seem right

I am pretty sure i've seen the same three season wall at dealerships, and unless I just didn't look closely enough, they always seemed straight and true and well sealed to the outdoors. I added it to mine (dealer install) and the two inner sliding doors are at such a bad slant, that when they touch in the middle, the top touches but the bottom has a 5-6" gap! Fore and aft, they also do not butt up cleanly, one is almost behind the other. Furthermore, the weather stripping is stiff and bent so badly that daylight is visible in many spots in the gaps between the inner and outer doors. (not to mention the brush-style guard at top and bottom, can't imagine that keeping any bugs out)

Is everyone else's three season wall like this? I would assume not. Have asked dealer to see what they can do but they are 600 miles away. Other than getting a refund, not sure what else I can do. When I look at the glide rails for the door, not really sure how much I could adjust, and I don't want to start drilling new holes.

Other thing is, i think it was installed too far forward - the top bunk bed scrapes and pulls the velcro off when it passes the top of the doors in the three season wall.

I can't imagine that new owners of the even more expensive Road Warrior and Cyclone brands would be happy if their three season wall came looking like this?

Image host rotated images, no way to fix it - second one is closeup of right door (viewed from inside) - left door has same tilt downwards:


http://i66.tinypic.com/29em1aa.jpg


http://i67.tinypic.com/1zlu7ig.jpg

Hi Equalizer,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.

There are quite a few toy hauler owners active on the forum, so I expect you'll get some feedback shortly.

Since that door is a dealer install it looks like you might have to bite the bullet and travel the 600 miles to have them address that problem along with any other issues you might have.

Peace
Dave

I have same doors on my 4005 but they fit together with no gaps and have 3 inch gap between bunk.

emery395 said:

I have same doors on my 4005 but they fit together with no gaps and have 3 inch gap between bunk.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that feedback, that really helps. So I am thinking they could have put it closer to the ramp door and maybe the rails for the inner doors need re-drilling or alignment.

The dealer is supposedly reviewing my photos. It wouldn't be cost-effective to drive it there and back. I'd been considering building my own patio door with a slider or a double French door setup, wishing I'd gone that route now.

Anyway once I see if they can do anything remotely or not, I'll see if I can make it work better. At least I know it's not just how they are. Thanks again.

On our Cyclone 4018 the closest point is 5" to the rear bunk, and our doors fit perfect.
All installed at factory

Hopefully that helps

Sent from BLR Logistics

BLR said:

On our Cyclone 4018 the closest point is 5" to the rear bunk, and our doors fit perfect.
All installed at factory hopefully that helps
Sent from BLR Logistics

Click to expand...

Those pictures do really help! Nice to see they are capable of fitting together nicely. i think they mount the bunks a bit further forward in the cyclone, but I definitely could have had another inch in front of mine, instead of -1/4" as it is. I looked at mine more, can't really figure what is going on - will probably try looking at it tomorrow with my level to see which parts are out of alignment exactly. Thanks again.

My Road Warrior bunks are about 6" from the door. The 2 inner sliding doors do not slide together perfectly, but you can pull them together and latch it and the gap closes at the bottom, but it's more like a 1" gap at the bottom, not 5". I do not have any pics to post though, sorry.

That helps to know! I was able to "fix" mine somewhat this weekend. I thought I'd saved some time by planning because on the outside of the doors, there are slots for the rails, but it's not enough adjustment to really change it. So, I had to remove the rails on the inside (on the outer doors), then rotate them upwards quite a bit. I left one screw in on the bottom rail so I could pivot the inner door and the rails without completely taking it off. Anyway, now they do close nice and straight (still have to grip the handles like you do though to close the latch).

Funny thing is, the walls are level, the outer doors are level, and the rails appear to have been level originally - I guess there's just too much play in the rail extension that causes the tilt on some of ours.