putting landing gear down manually

kbsplus2

Member
We had some generator problem this weekend and between furnace and lighting we drained our battery pretty low. I dug out the tool we got at delivery that said "to extend legs" and was unsuccessful in finding the place to put it on the 3212 to manually drive the legs. I didn't find anything in the owner manual and had to plug to the truck to finally get enough to power it. I'm hoping to be better prepared for next time. Thank you for your help
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
kbsplus2, find your motor for the front legs. It's usually on the left (off door) side of the trailer. On the outer end of the motor there is a shaft that the tool will fit on to raise and lower the legs. It should be accessible from the left side front compartment.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
kbsplus2
Sorry you had the problem with the landing gear. We had a problem with the Landing Gear Gearbox while in Canada. I think your Razor should be similar to our Bighorn. On the door side of the trailer we have a compartment where the hydraulics are located. Inside this compartment is a round hole that the crank will fit through and connect to the transition gearbox. See the pictures below.
When we tried to adjust the landing gear with the manual crank a part of the transition gearbox broke. Lippert came to our rescue and sent a complete set because we were concerned that the gearbox that comes on the motor had broken also. That was the reason we tried to use the hand crank.
The entire system is easy to replace, for me anyway.. We do not have anything blocking the front basement compartment like others that have a generator installed. When looking at the Motor there are 4 bolts. Two bolts hold the motor to the gearbox that comes with it and the other two bolts hold it to the transition gearbox. The transition gearbox is about 6 inches by 5 inches an inch thick.
If anyone finds that they are having a problem with the gear system you might purchase one for an emergency. The entire thing from Lippert only cost about $45. Shipment was a lot more for me because I needed it in about 3 days and was in Canada.
I was helped by Dave with Lippert and he was great. He really took care of me.
One piece of information you might get from the Heartland Factory or your dealer, if he has it. Keep your date of manufacture (DOM), date of purchase (DOP) and your vin number. That will help anyone know what part you have on your trailer.
 

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Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Bob, On the gearbox. Was the piece that broke off a stabilizing pin? I noticed on your pictures, your motor is mounted different than mine. My motor is above the square tube shaft. I just noticed last weekend how the motor was moving. When operating the landing jacks, the bolt going through the shaft was hitting the base of the motor causing it to bounce up & down. I used some plumbing strap tape to support the motor just enough to clear the bolt but still have room to move a little. Correct me if I'm wrong but it appears that the gearbox is not attached to the upper part of the leg. It just straddles it and is held in place by the shaft bolt and the "legs" on the gearbox keep it from rotating by straddling the upper leg.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Ray
I believe what you said is correct. The main landing gear shaft has a flat side that the Transition gear box slides on that runs the Landing jacks up and down. There is a collar that slides on the flat shaft up against the transition gear box and has a Philips head self taping bolt that goes
through the collar and hold the transition gearbox on the main shaft. The plastic nubs straddle the jack housing. The shaft on one side extends to the outside which is where the manual crank is attached through a hole in the side of the hydraulic cabinet.

The Motor and the square gearbox is one unit. Two bolts hold the motor to the square gearbox and two long bolts mount the motor and the housing to the transition gearbox.

Now in my opinion this is quite a jury rig. I would like to see a way to turn the main gears with the manual handle. It might be a hard job with out the transition gearbox. Dave at Lippert told me if I have to use the manual crank it would much easier to remove the motor from the transition gearbox before raising or lowering the jacks with the manual crank.

That may be why the plastic nub broke off. There is a brass pin part way through the plastic nubs.

By the way, Kenny, the tech that came out and replaced the gears told me the bolt that goes through the shaft is a grade 5, 1 inch long, 1/4" bolt. He told me not to put a grade 8 bolt in place of the grade 5. You may bend the shaft rather than break the bolt.

Another thing I found out from Dave at Lippert. If you can't use the manual crank for some reason take a large crescent wrench and turn the horizontal shaft. Might take a lot of half or quarter turns but it will raise or lower the jacks. Probably be easier if the motor is removed.

Hope this helps..
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Thanks Bob. No problems so far with our jack. It was when I saw the motor moving as my wife was raising the front that I thought I had a problem. I had her operate the jacks as I held the motor and after removing the plastic panel in the LP compartment is when I saw the whole picture. You just confirmed my thoughts. I used the plumbers tape to help support the motor away from the bolt but left some room for it to "move". Will we see you in Houston?
 
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