Fresh Water Filter System

212Pilot

Active Member
I have searched the forum and read the User Guides on Whole Coach Water Filters. There is some very good info and really great ideas on different ways to do this. I have decided to put together a system permanently mounted inside the utility area to minimize set up and keeping it warm in freezing temperatures. I still have a couple of questions about filter configuration. Most I have seen have two canisters and some have three with a 5 Micron, a one Micron, and a charcoal filter element.
1. Are three filters really necessary? Advantages/Disadvantages.
2. Does the one Micron allow enough flow for a whole coach system (shower and washing machine)?
3. If you use a three canister system what is the most efficient order for the filters? (5, Charcoal, 1, or 5, 1, Charcoal)
4. Should the Pressure Regulator go before the filters or after?

Thanks in advance.

ML
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Generally, you'd do this:
1. 5 micron
2. 1 micron
3. charcoal / carbon

Regulator will go at either end of your supply hose - your choice. That said, I only run a regulator if the park pressure is 100 PSI or more. Going through the 3 filters will reduce the pressure. This is what works for me but always using a regulator is a good way to go if you prefer.
 

212Pilot

Active Member
Generally, you'd do this:
1. 5 micron
2. 1 micron
3. charcoal / carbon

Regulator will go at either end of your supply hose - your choice. That said, I only run a regulator if the park pressure is 100 PSI or more. Going through the 3 filters will reduce the pressure. This is what works for me but always using a regulator is a good way to go if you prefer.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking of putting the regulator in line either where the water comes in through the Anderson Valve or after the filters to keep it from freezing. I have mine set at 70psi now just to be safe.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Thanks for the info. I was thinking of putting the regulator in line either where the water comes in through the Anderson Valve or after the filters to keep it from freezing. I have mine set at 70psi now just to be safe.

If you plan to include a regulator, I'd suggest it be before the filters, even if it's at the input of the first one. This way, the filter housings and gaskets are protected in case you see > 100 PSI water at a CG.

Others will surely weigh in here with their experiences.
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
We've been full-timing for over four years and have gone through various filter configurations, but it wasn't until I took a New Mexico state class on water sampling to follow state and federal laws so I could help an RV park maintain their water system, that I fully appreciate how hard it is to remove harmful bacteria from water. E.coli is one of the most difficult bacteria to remove--your filter will have to filter down to .1 micron to remove it. Knowing that, think about RV parks that use a frost-free water faucet. Those tall pipes have a tiny valve at the bottom to drain out water when it's turned off--it also sucks up a small amount of dirt when turned back on. Most of the stand-pipes are near the sewer systems where we've all had accidents with leaked sewage and where people rinse out the sewer hoses. The three filter system is adequate for general use, especially if used with an On-The-Go water softener--besides a reverse-osmosis system, your best bet for drinking water is to use a Berkey. Also, spray your RV water connection points with a 90% alcohol solution and let it evaporate before connecting your hose. Here's what I use--one-micron filter (removes sediment), water softener (removes magnesium and calcium), then a 5 micron block charcoal filter (removes chlorine and other bad tastes/odors). These filters sit outside. We then use the Berkey for our drinking water. You'd be surprised how many RV parks use wells for their water and how badly they're maintained.
 

212Pilot

Active Member
We've been full-timing for over four years and have gone through various filter configurations, but it wasn't until I took a New Mexico state class on water sampling to follow state and federal laws so I could help an RV park maintain their water system, that I fully appreciate how hard it is to remove harmful bacteria from water. E.coli is one of the most difficult bacteria to remove--your filter will have to filter down to .1 micron to remove it. Knowing that, think about RV parks that use a frost-free water faucet. Those tall pipes have a tiny valve at the bottom to drain out water when it's turned off--it also sucks up a small amount of dirt when turned back on. Most of the stand-pipes are near the sewer systems where we've all had accidents with leaked sewage and where people rinse out the sewer hoses. The three filter system is adequate for general use, especially if used with an On-The-Go water softener--besides a reverse-osmosis system, your best bet for drinking water is to use a Berkey. Also, spray your RV water connection points with a 90% alcohol solution and let it evaporate before connecting your hose. Here's what I use--one-micron filter (removes sediment), water softener (removes magnesium and calcium), then a 5 micron block charcoal filter (removes chlorine and other bad tastes/odors). These filters sit outside. We then use the Berkey for our drinking water. You'd be surprised how many RV parks use wells for their water and how badly they're maintained.

Thats Scary. I suspected most RV Parks aren't doing much to maintain their water systems based on how many have leaks. I tried not to think about the possible contamination from the Sewer system. We currently just the Camco Inline and use a Pur Filter pitcher for drinking water. hoping for the best. Hope however is not a good method so now I am going to install a better more permanent solution. I like the idea of sanitizing connections. Regardless how hard I try to keep hose connections out of the dirt I invariably drop an end in the mud. I will now keep a spray bottle with alcohol in it in the UDC.
Thanks.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
We've been full-timing for over four years and have gone through various filter configurations, but it wasn't until I took a New Mexico state class on water sampling to follow state and federal laws so I could help an RV park maintain their water system, that I fully appreciate how hard it is to remove harmful bacteria from water. E.coli is one of the most difficult bacteria to remove--your filter will have to filter down to .1 micron to remove it. Knowing that, think about RV parks that use a frost-free water faucet. Those tall pipes have a tiny valve at the bottom to drain out water when it's turned off--it also sucks up a small amount of dirt when turned back on. Most of the stand-pipes are near the sewer systems where we've all had accidents with leaked sewage and where people rinse out the sewer hoses. The three filter system is adequate for general use, especially if used with an On-The-Go water softener--besides a reverse-osmosis system, your best bet for drinking water is to use a Berkey. Also, spray your RV water connection points with a 90% alcohol solution and let it evaporate before connecting your hose. Here's what I use--one-micron filter (removes sediment), water softener (removes magnesium and calcium), then a 5 micron block charcoal filter (removes chlorine and other bad tastes/odors). These filters sit outside. We then use the Berkey for our drinking water. You'd be surprised how many RV parks use wells for their water and how badly they're maintained.

That is why we have the water softener, two parallel sets of filters and a water UV light point of use system. UV has a 99.99% destruction of bacteria, virus & protozoan cysts (Giardia Lamblia & Cryptosporidium) at rated flow. My filter system , with new set of filters, has a flow rate of 3GPM. The system I purchased is for point of use at 3.5GPM. I installed it in the UDC.

http://www.wateranywhere.com/product_info.php?products_id=10097
 

Shortest Straw

Caught In A Mosh
Does anyone know where I can order the hoses with the grey connectors on each end? I installed a dual filter system from the filter store and they told me to use the toilet type hoses from HD or Lowes. It seems that they are to small as our water pressure at the regulator is at 60 psi but we have low flow in the rig.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Does anyone know where I can order the hoses with the grey connectors on each end? I installed a dual filter system from the filter store and they told me to use the toilet type hoses from HD or Lowes. It seems that they are to small as our water pressure at the regulator is at 60 psi but we have low flow in the rig.

There maybe nothing wrong with your hoses. Low flow was solved for me by paralleling two sets of filters. Thus double the flow.
 

smoore

Member
That is why we have the water softener, two parallel sets of filters and a water UV light point of use system. UV has a 99.99% destruction of bacteria, virus & protozoan cysts (Giardia Lamblia & Cryptosporidium) at rated flow. My filter system , with new set of filters, has a flow rate of 3GPM. The system I purchased is for point of use at 3.5GPM. I installed it in the UDC.

http://www.wateranywhere.com/product_info.php?products_id=10097


Marc, do you by chance have pictures of your filter and UV system you could post. Would love to see how you set it all up.

Thanks.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
I will post in two days. Just got back from a trip today. I have yet to have time to see if I can mount one set inside the storage bay wall and the other set in the storage bay wall. Not enough room for both to be put behind the storage bay wall. Right now they sit outside next to the water softener.

Here are the pictures of my temporary setup which I have been using for over a year. All pictures were taken with my i-phone in the same orientation. So go figure the rotation difference???

UV light.


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IMG_1397.JPG


Water softener and filters. The two sets of filters are in parallel to increase the flow rate.
IMG_1393.JPG

IMG_1396.JPG
 

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