Fresh water tank overflows when hooked up to city water

56Pan

Member
Last week our campground shut off the water. When turned back on we noticed that water was coming out of the overflow hose. I changed out the 4 way Anderson valve, which id have a broken O-ring, but it is still over filling my tank. Any suggestions?
 

3760EL

Member
Last week our campground shut off the water. When turned back on we noticed that water was coming out of the overflow hose. I changed out the 4 way Anderson valve, which id have a broken O-ring, but it is still over filling my tank. Any suggestions?

I had the same issue. Dealer replaced two complete valves assemblies and it did the same thing. Called Heartland and they sent me out just the valve with the correct O rings and instructions
Replaced it in 10 minutes with no further problems. Still good 3 yrs. later.

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mlpeloquin

Well-known member
I also had the fresh water tank overflow. I just fixed the Anderson valve about a month prior so I added an inline check valve to the water pump as danemayer suggested. Been fine since. I carry plumbers grease for the Anderson valve. If the valve starts to require a lot more force to turn than normal, I take it apart and grease it. Only had to do that once so far. You can order and replace the check valve that is in the water pump, but when on the road, adding an external check valve is quick and easy.
 

lynndiwagoner

Well-known member
Putting the check valve on the suction side didn't work for me for some reason. I had to put it on the output side. This was my second shurflo to have the check valve go bad so I went to another brand of pump.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I also had the fresh water tank overflow. I just fixed the Anderson valve about a month prior so I added an inline check valve to the water pump as danemayer suggested. Been fine since. I carry plumbers grease for the Anderson valve. If the valve starts to require a lot more force to turn than normal, I take it apart and grease it. Only had to do that once so far. You can order and replace the check valve that is in the water pump, but when on the road, adding an external check valve is quick and easy.

Marc,

In a call last week, Anderson brought up the subject of lubricants. They were very concerned about users lubricating the valve because petroleum products will damage the seats and o-rings. They only lubricant they support is Dow Corning Molycote 111.

How serious a problem is it if a different product is used? I don't know. I can only say that Anderson Brass has communicated that in their view, it's serious.

- - - Updated - - -

Putting the check valve on the suction side didn't work for me for some reason. I had to put it on the output side. This was my second shurflo to have the check valve go bad so I went to another brand of pump.
Installing the check valve on the output side of the pump will stop the unwanted filling of the fresh tank. But, it's possible you may get undesired effects depending on how much water is leaking through the pump's check valve.

When you close the faucet (while pumping water from the fresh tank), the pump builds up water pressure in the pex tubing. The pressure sensor on the pump is then activated, shutting off the pump. But if water then leaks backward through the pump, the pressure drops and the pump starts up again. The cycle time on the pump is a function of how much water flows backward through the pump.

If you experience unwanted cycling of the water pump, you may want to revisit the positioning of the check valve.
 

lynndiwagoner

Well-known member
You're correct. I did notice cycling after putting the check valve on the output side but it did stop the filling of the tank. I could still use the pump but had to turn it off when through. Funny I never could get it to work on the suction side. Hopefully the new pump will solve the problem. Thanks.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Any chance the check valve was pointed the wrong direction?

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Gaffer

Well-known member
I seem to remember reading that the Anderson valve should never be turned while under pressure. I can't find that anywhere now. Can someone confirm this as fact of fiction?
Thanks
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I seem to remember reading that the Anderson valve should never be turned while under pressure. I can't find that anywhere now. Can someone confirm this as fact of fiction?
Thanks
I spoke with one of the Anderson people a few weeks ago and they say it's fiction.

They do have a concern about particulates from the water supply getting stuck to the lube inside the valve and tearing up the parts. They strongly recommend use of filters.
 

NWILSON

Kentucky Chapter Leaders - retired
I seem to remember reading that the Anderson valve should never be turned while under pressure. I can't find that anywhere now. Can someone confirm this as fact of fiction?
Thanks
I remember reading that here too!
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
I seem to remember reading that the Anderson valve should never be turned while under pressure. I can't find that anywhere now. Can someone confirm this as fact of fiction?
Thanks

I remember reading that here too!

I too remember seeing it here on the forum and believe it was the opinion of a poster in another thread on this topic

Mine definitely turns easier without any water pressure but have turned it both ways, water on and off.


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Oldelevatorman

Well-known member
Yes the best way to ruin the valve is to turn it under pressure. It will ruin the 'o' rings inside! Too much pressure will also blow out the 'o' rings. Make sure you use a pressure regulator. I accidentally ran 100 psi thru it and it started filling up my fresh tank. I hadn't any experience with an Anderson valve prior to us owning our Landmark. I was also cautioned to turn the valve the same direction each time during my p.d.i. I called Anderson and they sent me one as did Heartland so I have a spare. I've heard Anderson won't send them out anymore but don't remember why!


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danemayer

Well-known member
The Anderson Brass Advisory on how to get replacement parts is in this folder.

And once again, the Anderson people say that there is no problem turning the selector under pressure.

But of course, we're all free to do what we think best.
 

LBR

Well-known member
Yes the best way to ruin the valve is to turn it under pressure. It will ruin the 'o' rings inside! Too much pressure will also blow out the 'o' rings. Make sure you use a pressure regulator. I accidentally ran 100 psi thru it and it started filling up my fresh tank. I hadn't any experience with an Anderson valve prior to us owning our Landmark. I was also cautioned to turn the valve the same direction each time during my p.d.i. I called Anderson and they sent me one as did Heartland so I have a spare. I've heard Anderson won't send them out anymore but don't remember why!


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Right on, OEM! .....been much discussion/ many posts on relieving all incoming and house water pressures prior to turning that valve... it's a great practice to get into if a person has any basic concept of hydraulics.
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
I guess I shouldn’t have commented in this thread as I jinxed myself
After hearing the pump cycle on and off during the night, I replaced yet another damaged o-ring in the supposedly “can’t leak” POS Anderson valve

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CoveredWagon

Well-known member
I always check ALL my tanks indicator lights when checking fill levels. That’s how I discovered my fresh water tank was filling. I drained it and sure enough it started to fill again. Oh yeah I remember switching the valve under pressure. 😡 Parts on order. I wonder if the o rings are just o rings or if they are quad rings or something else. If o rings they should be easily resourced and replaced. I’ll find out soon enough.
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
I always check ALL my tanks indicator lights when checking fill levels. That’s how I discovered my fresh water tank was filling. I drained it and sure enough it started to fill again. Oh yeah I remember switching the valve under pressure. Parts on order. I wonder if the o rings are just o rings or if they are quad rings or something else. If o rings they should be easily resourced and replaced. I’ll find out soon enough.

NOT an over the counter o-ring. They are formed to fit the cutout in the valve core. If you ordered a new core, keep the o-rings from the old one as spare parts


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