Toyhauler battery disconnect/Kill Switch function?

Greetings;
New member here with a Fuel Toyhauler. I previously had another brand toy hauler for past 6 years. I am teaching myself where everything is and how it works in this new rig. I have left a message for the Service Advisor where I purchased the trailer about this question, but thought I would throw it out here to the guys like me that actually use this kind of RV. My old rig had a battery disconnect switch (key like) in the sink cabinet. When it was turned off and key came out of switch, power was killed to everything but the tongue jack. No lights, sensors, nothing was left on. In the Fuel 305 that I just got, the battery switch in the front storage compartment looks very much like the one I had before, but when I turn it to OFF position and the red key comes loose, I have power everywhere in the coach. Slide out, lights, stereo, tv, awning, and so on. I am wondering what I am missing here. I don't want to put it in RV storage lot with CO sensor, LED's on the electronics lit, etc as I know what the result will be. I would appreciate any input from other Toy Hauler owners who may have had the same situation as I don't know if the Service Tech is going to handle this and I would like to avoid hauling this trailer all the way across Phx if I can avoid it.

Hi Cruiseaz,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

I'm sure some of our other Fuel owners will jump in with some info for you soon. Dealer installs the battery I think and maybe bypassed or hooked it up wrong.

Be sure and join our Heartland Owners Club. Then join us at a rally when you can meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.

Enjoy the forum.
Jim M

I believe your best bet is to remove the battery, or at least disconnect the cable as you’re likely to get some drain with cables connected.

Better to remove anything a thief could for security purposes while in storage.

Do you have a residential refrigerator? If so, there are usually 2 cutoff switches. One for the refrigerator's inverter and the other for everything else.

Cruiseaz said:

I would appreciate any input from other Toy Hauler owners who may have had the same situation as I don't know if the Service Tech is going to handle this and I would like to avoid hauling this trailer all the way across Phx if I can avoid it.

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My TH has the cut off switch in the basement compartment. When I turn it off, all power is cut, including power to front hydraulics. Basically, the unit is electrically dead. If I don't use the switch between trips, the parasitic draw to the batteries will drain them totally within a week - even though I have everything turned off inside the unit. Things like the CO2 sensor, stereo back lighting, fridge circuit board, etc., will continue to draw power if you leave the power on.

My solution to this problem for short-term storage between trips is to mount a couple of solar panels to feed the unit - keeps the batteries topped up.

I got a response from the Service dept and, of course they want me to take it back so they can look at it. Makes me think they realized that they did something wrong. I am thinking they bypassed the switch altogether, as they had some mfr upgrade to do they day I went to pick it up. So, I guess I will have to haul it all the way across the valley to get that done.
There is a blank out on the control panel labeled for a battery disconnect. Does anybody have that setup on their rig? If so, does it kill power to everything, including the CO sensor, radio/clock, TV?
thanks for the replies. Happy Rv'ing.

The Ampper Am-CBS01 is the best battery disconnect switch for RVs on the market. This is an easy solution to keep our travel trailer batteries from getting discharged while in storage. I have never been concerned about its compatibility, either. The device works with 12-volt systems just as it does with 48-volt battery systems. I just drilled 4 holes and mounted it to the top of one of the battery storage boxes and routed the cables through the molded openings.

I just re-read your original post and noticed you mentioned the TV has power. Unless you have the TV wired for 12V DC, that would indicate you're plugged into shore power. If that's the case, the power converter supplies 12V DC to the lights, refrigerator, water heater, bathroom fan, and probably the radio. Check the battery cutoff switch again with shore power disconnected.

I had a 2013 Road Warrior (now have a Landmark). I always had issues with parasitic drain on the batteries when I'd put the trailer in storage for a couple of weeks. Although the cutoff switch was in the off position, and there was no sign of power in the trailer, the batteries would begin to drain. I know the pull-away brakes bypassed the cutoff - which is appropriate for emergencies - but assuming the "key" isn't pulled, it shouldn't be consuming any power.

Coincidentally, on my 2020 Landmark there is an electronic cutoff for the batteries inside the RV. Again, there is parasitic draw on the batteries between trips. I think I'll be forced to install a mechanical disconnect for longer storage periods. The hydraulic jacks are too sensitive to low voltage ... nothing quite like trying to get ready to leave on a trip and you can't retract your landing gear!

The parasite drains on my batteries was from 2 items that are connected directly to the batteries. One is my Tire Minder TPMS system, and the other is the rear camera. Both were installed by the dealer when we purchased, so they hooked the Tire Minder up to the simplest way for them.
The Road Warrior came with being pre-wired for a rear camera.

when storing for longer peroids I remove both cables from the battery, only drawback I've found is having to reset the clock & presets on the radio. Good thing is battery is good to go when I am.

Remove the cable from the battery and put your VOM meter, set to amps, between the cable and the battery and