EMS install problem

orion7144

Well-known member
I installed the Progressive industries HW50C (the one with the remote) and I am getting an E-9 error (Data link down). No other errors show up. I have it connected to my inverter generator since I am in the storage lot with no access to shore power. I called PI and they insist that it is the data cable between the main unit and the remote. I have ohm'd out the cable and it is fine. This is a brand new unit that was in a sealed box. We are heading out on a trip Sunday so I am asking here if anyone else has had any issues. I understand the un-bonded neutral issue but I put the remote in bypass and it still did not work. When I manually held the contactor closed, I got power to the RV (I am an electronics engineer so I do not recommend just anyone holding the contactor in manually).

Thanks
 

NWILSON

Kentucky Chapter Leaders - retired
As much as it looks like a phone line, it isn't! It MUST be specifically labeled as a data cable
 

orion7144

Well-known member
As much as it looks like a phone line, it isn't! It MUST be specifically labeled as a data cable

That's what tech support said. I ohm'd it out pin 1 to pin 1 2-2 etc and all tested good. The remote powers up and goes through the voltage reading and current then straight to E-9. It does show 0v and 0a even though I have 125 on each leg.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I understand the un-bonded neutral issue but I put the remote in bypass and it still did not work.

Are you saying you bonded neutral and ground at the generator and still have the problem, or are you saying that you have some reason to think that putting the remote in bypass would eliminated the need to bond neutral and ground?
 

orion7144

Well-known member
Are you saying you bonded neutral and ground at the generator and still have the problem, or are you saying that you have some reason to think that putting the remote in bypass would eliminated the need to bond neutral and ground?

I have not tried it yet since there is a specific error code for that and I am not getting it. I did not have a plug with me to try it. I will be plugging into my house on Saturday to get it cooled off. If the EMS still does not work I will bypass it with a few terminal strips in an enclosure.
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
Did you make the cable or is it one that came with it? You do realize it may not be a 1-1 etc. It could be 1-4, 2-3,3-2, 4-1.
 

orion7144

Well-known member
Did you make the cable or is it one that came with it? You do realize it may not be a 1-1 etc. It could be 1-4, 2-3,3-2, 4-1.

No I just measured the one they sent with it. I have all the parts to make one myself but they would not tell me the pin out.
 

LBR

Well-known member
I read it that you used the kit supplied data cable, correct? If you used a normal Cat3 phone cable, therein is probably the issue. Many times data cable are cross-wired.
 

porthole

Retired
I installed the Progressive industries HW50C (the one with the remote) and I am getting an E-9 error (Data link down). No other errors show up. I have it connected to my inverter generator since I am in the storage lot with no access to shore power. I called PI and they insist that it is the data cable between the main unit and the remote. I have ohm'd out the cable and it is fine. This is a brand new unit that was in a sealed box. We are heading out on a trip Sunday so I am asking here if anyone else has had any issues. I understand the un-bonded neutral issue but I put the remote in bypass and it still did not work. When I manually held the contactor closed, I got power to the RV (I am an electronics engineer so I do not recommend just anyone holding the contactor in manually).

Thanks

Did you try it without the data cable and remote connected?

- - - Updated - - -

Are you saying you bonded neutral and ground at the generator and still have the problem, or are you saying that you have some reason to think that putting the remote in bypass would eliminated the need to bond neutral and ground?

Putting into Bypass will allow an unbonded generator to pass power through. Surge protection still in effect but no other features.

- - - Updated - - -

No I just measured the one they sent with it. I have all the parts to make one myself but they would not tell me the pin out.


I didn't make mine, but I did cut the end off to snake it through a 'just big enough' hole and then just put on a new plug.
 

orion7144

Well-known member
So, I get the 5th wheel home and plug in. Great, I got E-0. Hmmmm no output though. Contacter is not actuating. If I manual turn it on it kicks the GFCI in the house. Disconnected the EMS and luckily had some terminal blocks for thick gauge wire and everything works. I did trip the GFCI in the house again when I tried to turn the AC on. I had to change a dip switch on my AIMS inverter charger since the input voltage dropped quite a bit on start up.

Learned 2 things. I need the neutral/ground plug for my generator and the EMS is bad out of the box. I checked the 120V to turn on the contractor and it was not getting it. I assume the main board is bad. I guess it is possible that since my generator was open neutral, it could have killed the EMS.
 

porthole

Retired
So, I get the 5th wheel home and plug in. Great, I got E-0. Hmmmm no output though. Contacter is not actuating. If I manual turn it on it kicks the GFCI in the house. Disconnected the EMS and luckily had some terminal blocks for thick gauge wire and everything works. I did trip the GFCI in the house again when I tried to turn the AC on. I had to change a dip switch on my AIMS inverter charger since the input voltage dropped quite a bit on start up.

Learned 2 things. I need the neutral/ground plug for my generator and the EMS is bad out of the box. I checked the 120V to turn on the contractor and it was not getting it. I assume the main board is bad. I guess it is possible that since my generator was open neutral, it could have killed the EMS.


Is this a Progressive EMS ?

The gen open neutral will just have the EMS finding it as a fault and not allow the power past the EMS
The Progressive EMS has a 'bypass' feature which allows power through bypassing most of the protections (surge protection remains).

The Progressive EMS can also be manually closed, but is not documented real well.

- - - Updated - - -

And if it is Progressive, they have pretty good customer support, call them Monday.
 

esscobra

Well-known member
so have onboard onan 7k and carry Honda eu3000 handi as backup- like to use Honda occasionally to keep running good and fuel/carb clean- and when its not 100+ and don't need a/c or only 1- I just put into bypass mode when using Honda
 

orion7144

Well-known member
Sorry for the delay but I thought I responded to your post. Here is an update for people interested.

PI was very helpful although not very technical. They kept insisting it was the cable to the remote and said it would not work without it. They first sent a new cable, then a new remote, and finally a whole new unit. The reason they sent me a new unit is when I got home and plugged into shore power, I got the E-0 but the contactor was not closing. While I was waiting for the new unit I decided to troubleshoot the bad one. I new I was not getting the neutral to the contactor to turn it on so I started there. What I found by tracing the circuit out is there was a chip missing. When the new one got here, sure enough it had the missing chip (an optocoupler/phototriac). I bench tested the new one and it was good.

So I learned that the remote and cable is not needed for it to power on and my generator needs the bonded neutral/ground plug for it to work with it.

Is this a Progressive EMS ?

The gen open neutral will just have the EMS finding it as a fault and not allow the power past the EMS
The Progressive EMS has a 'bypass' feature which allows power through bypassing most of the protections (surge protection remains).

The Progressive EMS can also be manually closed, but is not documented real well.

- - - Updated - - -

And if it is Progressive, they have pretty good customer support, call them Monday.

- - - Updated - - -

I also forgot to respond what I found with the "manual closing" of the contactor. With the ones without the remote, you remove the blue line from the circuit board and connect it to the contactor and that bypasses everything. I could have done that with this one but it does not come with the connector attached since the "bypass" is on the remote and is controlled by the main circuit board (not surge protection board). The reason the bypass did not work for me is due to the missing chip. The chip monitors for overvoltage (I think based on the data sheet) and passes the neutral if all is well or bypass is selected.
 
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