Solar System from Scratch - feedback?

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
I am designing and installing a solar system from scratch, and being a computer guy and not an electrical guy there are many things that I do not understand clearly.

To date I have received immense help and assistance from Jim Tanner (Oregon_Camper) and I am most grateful, thank you Jim, and I will continue to use him as a resource until I get this all done and working the way I want it to. However I an the type of guy that needs multiple opinions and input until my brain wraps around this stuff.

So here is my main component list
Solar Panels
2 x 300w 24v Renogy (to be connected in parallel) I chose these instead of the 100w due to the footprint as well as the ability to expand to 1200w if necessary.

MPPT Controller
Aims Power 100 AMP Solar Charge Controller 12 / 24 / 36 / 48 VDC MPPT

Inverter Charger
Aims Power 3000 Watt Pure Sine Inverter Charger - ETL Certified Conforms to UL458 Standards

Why Aims Power... Price, value & performance plus available cash, (There may be better choices, only time will tell)

Batteries
6 x Trojan T-105 225 AH wired in series and parallel to provide 12v 675 ah (usable around 335 ah)
I took a serious look at Lithium, but just cannot afford 4 x 100ah Lithium batteries at $949 each. This will be my first major upgrade if my wife continues to enjoy the RV lifestyle and we solve the internet access issues while boondocking.

Battery Monitor
Victron BMV-712

Wiring
4/0 flexible welding

Various bus bars, fuses on - off switches and such

My question is about A/C power
Did you solar guys run a sub panel for the A/C circuits that you wanted the inverter to supply A/C current to, Items such as Microwave, tv, computer systems, furnace and such.

If you did this what items did you put on the sub panel?
Is it even necessary or is there some other way to isolate the A/C for now and have my little Honda EU22001 run the A/C, which brings me to a confusing point

If I am running the A/C from the generator and it is connected to 30/amp reel, how do I separate what goes to the main panel and the sub panel or is this basically pretty simple and I am missing something.

My lack of complete electrical understanding leaves a hole here, and I need to understand in laymans terms.

Why the need for what I think is a fairly large system (except maybe the number of batteries)
Well my wife works in an industry that requires high levels of security but can work from anywhere, but requires VPN and to be online 8 -10 hours a day.(Internet access is a whole different issue which I will be addressing later.

Lastly I would love to be able to run my A/C on solar but it is impractical.

Thoughts ideas and suggestions before I make a huge mistake here.

Gavin Slabbert
 

SLO

Well-known member
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

b41fb7146acf0bcdc44d5108c7c5d64e.jpg



This is what I did. Numbers 16 to 20 are on the inverter. Numbers to the left of that are on shore power. I installed a different AC panel from Progressive Dynamics that has a sub panel incorporated in it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

b41fb7146acf0bcdc44d5108c7c5d64e.jpg



This is what I did. Numbers 16 to 20 are on the inverter. Numbers to the left of that are on shore power. I installed a different AC panel from Progressive Dynamics that has a sub panel incorporated in it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Awesome, and did you disconnect your existing Converter, or did you simply turn off the breaker 13 in the A/C panel ?
 

SLO

Well-known member
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

Awesome, and did you disconnect your existing Converter, or did you simply turn off the breaker 13 in the A/C panel ?

I disconnected it and turned off the breaker. I have a Magnum MS2812 inverter which also has the converter.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

CarterKraft

Well-known member
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

This suggestion might be crazy and thinking about the single phase generator on the split phase power system made my head hurt but I already it typed out so I'll leave it as is.


I was going to suggest the Victron MultiPlus 24/3000/70 with appropriate 50A transfer switch.
Although pricey this inverter/charger would allow you to load share the inverter power and generator power to provide start current etc. for loads. I have no idea how the single phase generator will get along with a split phase inverter though.

I do know (not first hand) that many of the name brand inverters will synch correctly with the inverters to provide supplemental current when needed, again no idea how that is handled with single vs split phase.
 

SLO

Well-known member
Solar System from Scratch -

Magnum make a MSH series which adds inverter power to generator power for high load demands. It only inverts one 50A leg. It doesn’t invert both 50A legs.

Edit: I’ll have to correct myself before someone else does. Magnum MS2812 does have two hot in and two hot out. But I think that configuration is only 30A.
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

You might reconsider your inverter/converter choice and think about the GoPower IC2000 (or IC3000) as it wires directly off shore power (50amp) and then provide 50 amp service to both Leg 1 and Leg 2. No sub-panel needed...which means a LOT less rewiring.

Using this, you will simply unplug existing converter.

Now everything in the RV has 110v power....not the items you dedicate to the sub panel.


My video on installing the IC2000
https://youtu.be/jjevQ10M97Y
 

CarterKraft

Well-known member
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

But how does he go about running the AC off the Gen? Will it run in "hybrid" mode on one leg with the Gen as backup?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

But how does he go about running the AC off the Gen? Will it run in "hybrid" mode on one leg with the Gen as backup?

If he has a built in generator, then he would need to wire an additional transfer switch. If not, then plugging in an external generator to the RV's shore plug would be use as if he was plugged in to Shore power. Passed right through IC2000 to distribution panel.
 

porthole

Retired
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

You might reconsider your inverter/converter choice and think about the GoPower IC2000 (or IC3000) as it wires directly off shore power (50amp) and then provide 50 amp service to both Leg 1 and Leg 2. No sub-panel needed...which means a LOT less rewiring.

Using this, you will simply unplug existing converter.

Now everything in the RV has 110v power....not the items you dedicate to the sub panel.


My video on installing the IC2000
https://youtu.be/jjevQ10M97Y

That's a little mis-leading.

If you wire it direct like that you will have 50 amp x 2 "pass through"

Disconnect from shore power and you are limited to 2000 watts x 90% max efficiency (1800 watts) for 15 amps total

IC3000 3000 watts x 90% max efficiency (2700 watts) for 22 amps total

Wiring it like that will also require some oversight to make sure you don't over load the system. AC, water heater fireplace etc.

Wiring through a sub panel allows you to have as many or as few electrical loads on the inverter.
 

porthole

Retired
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

Our inverter is wired through a sub panel.

Magnum MSH3012 inverter converter
Onan 8KW inverter diesel


AC power comes into the RV as:
Shore or generator --> Transfer switch --> Progressive EMS --> Precision Load sharing panel (which also sets input to the panel at 50, 30 or 20 amp max)

Panel, main:

100 amp input
Fireplace
AC #2
Water heater
AC #1
Dishwasher
AC #3
CheapHeat
Inverter sub panel

Panel sub (inverter):

60 amp input
Washer and dryer
Microwave
Bedroom
Living Room
Refrigertor
Central vac
GFCI outlets

On 50 amp shore power or generator everything is energized.
On 30 (or 20) amp the load sharing comes into play
On disconnect all the inverter circuits remain energized (automatic built in 60 amp transfer switch)

On 30 or 20 amp input all circuits are energized until the load exceeds available input, The Precision device starts dumping circuits starting with the water heater.

The Magnum Hybrid inverter will supplement the AC power on demand if loads exceed the input available.

And it works. For a test I plugged into my home 30 amp receptacle and switched the Precision panel (PP) to 20 amps.
Started the 3 AC's and the PP dumped all the circuits except for the main AC.

I then started the coffee maker and microwave, fridge was already on as well as some outlet supplied items like the TV and DirecTV receiver.

All seamless, drawing about 40 amps on the inverter plus the air conditioning on a 20 amp shore power.

I also wired in the CheapHeat to be 120 or 240, so as long as I am on shore or generator power I have that available.
 

Attachments

  • Inverter_sub_panel_16.jpg
    Inverter_sub_panel_16.jpg
    58.5 KB · Views: 33
  • Inverter_sub_panel_17.jpg
    Inverter_sub_panel_17.jpg
    42.4 KB · Views: 32

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

That's a little mis-leading.

If you wire it direct like that you will have 50 amp x 2 "pass through"

Disconnect from shore power and you are limited to 2000 watts x 90% max efficiency (1800 watts) for 15 amps total

IC3000 3000 watts x 90% max efficiency (2700 watts) for 22 amps total

Wiring it like that will also require some oversight to make sure you don't over load the system. AC, water heater fireplace etc.

Wiring through a sub panel allows you to have as many or as few electrical loads on the inverter.


Not sure how it is mis-leading at all?? I said if on shore power, I never said if on battery power you'll have 50 amps.

Yea, you do have to remember you're on inverter power and not 50 amp shore power....but my wife and I both know not to use the electric water heater on electric, but we use the fireplace many times as well as the microwave, portable ice maker, hairdryer, etc....just not all at the same time. For us, the ability to have every plug "hot" is worth the brain power needed to remember a few things you can and can't do.

BTW....the inverter will still output 2000 watts (not 1800 watts). More during startup to handle any startup surges. The efficiency is more a power loss from the battery when doing the conversation from DC to AC. Peak output current when inverting is 17 amps as per the spec below.

download.jpg
 

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
Re: Solar System from Scratch -

So a couple of things to clarify.

I do not have a built in generator, just a small portable Honda eu2200i. Currently my plan is to use it to run the aircon unit.

I need to measure the draw on my air-cons as with the easy start the little generator easily reads both units.

I have bought paid for and installed the Aims 3000w inverter charger, so there is no going back from that at this point.
The inverter charger has an auto start for the generator, however the generator that i have does not have an auto start mechanism so that is not an option.

As for solar panels, I ended up not using the 300w 24v panels as they were too big and i did not want a big ol sail up there , so i ended up with 6x 100w 12v Renogy slim line panels.

Going to wire them in 2 strings of 3 in series and then parallel to the charge controller

As I piece this together I am going to need to tap into your brains as this needs to be finished by Monday night as we close on our house on Tuesday and the new owners move in



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
Ok so My solar installation is finally finished, well I have not tied it into the dc load as of yet, as I am still testing.

I will post pics of the solar compartment this evening, and those in the know please take a look and see if there is something that does not seem right

Everything seems to be functioning correctly, and i have no error messages, so that is good.

I ended up installing 6 Renogy 100w slimline panels in 2 sets of 3 in series and then put the 2 sets into parallel, giving me about 67.5v at my Charge controller.

I ordered a new Progressive Dynamics panel that had a sub panel in it and i rewired all of that to suit my requirements. This is still going to take a little manipulation to get perfect but as i see it, this is ongoing.

I received an ton of help from Oregon_Camper and without Jims help this would have been far more tedious.

Wiring, I used 8awg from the solar panels to the charge controller, i used 4 awg from the charger controller to the batteries,and I used 4/0 multi strand welding wire and tinned copper lugs for the DC portion
ChargeController is AimsCorp 100w
Inverter - charger is AimsCorp 3000w
Shunt is Victron
Battery monitor is Victron 712
Switches are blue sea
The fuse is a 500 amp anl
The bus bar is 250amp
Batteries are Trojan 6v 225aH T-105

Here is an image of my in house control panel.

More photos to follow
56fa464f059205114741d11df6316d11.jpg


Gavin






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
Sorry been driving and forgot. I will get the pics out today after i leave this laundromat. (Time for a washer drier 🤪)

Gavin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
Okies folks here are a couple of images of my install, if anyone want to see my series - Parallel 6 panel roof setup then please let me kn ow and I will take a few images of that.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2040.JPG
    IMG_2040.JPG
    128.3 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_2043.JPG
    IMG_2043.JPG
    119.1 KB · Views: 60

LBR

Well-known member
Okies folks here are a couple of images of my install, if anyone want to see my series - Parallel 6 panel roof setup then please let me kn ow and I will take a few images of that.
Nice job, Gavin...looks great...the week's tidyness award goes to you!
 
Top