Intermittent interior light bank failure

Davodeth

Member
Hi everyone...I am new to this group and have been very impressed with how I have been welcomed into fold....I have an onoing issue that I am trying to resolve, involving my interior lights. I have different lights that will not work, then begin working again. Sometimes they work the next day, sometimes it is a week or more before they start working again. A few banks have never quit working, while others have not come on since they stopped working. I found a great wiring diagram that fellow members had put together (thanks! great work) and used it to trouble shoot my issue. I found a few minor issues that i resolved but nothing i did changed the problem. Normally I would take my rv to a repair facility or have a tech visit the park where i was staying, but i am currently working out of my Bighorn in a remote, rural location. Any ideas or insight would be greatly appreciated, as I am out of ideas....thanks for taking the time to read this!
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Our 2011 had fluorescent light fixtures where some would intermittently stop working due to a ballast problem. In our case, the fixtures had to be replaced - the ballast was not replaceable.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Your ceiling canister lights are daisy chained together. It might help diagnose the problem you are having by removing each light canister and checking all of the connections.

Peace
Dave
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I guess some more info on your problem lights might help us help you.

What kind of lights do you have - standard incandescent automotive type bulbs, halogen incandescent, fluorescent?

If incandescent, have you considered moving to LED bulbs? Besides using 1/10th the battery power when boondocking, lasting 10 times as long as regular bulbs, this 1/10th current flow is easier on 12 volt light switch contacts.

Which brings me to my next suggestion - I have experienced intermittent switches, and they act like you describe. You can switch them out for new ones, or buy yourself a can of CAIG Cramolyn DeOxIt contact cleaner/restorer. You can get this on E Bay or Amazon. I have sprayed it into the openings of switches, worked the switch multiple times, and cured the intermittent problems. This contact restorer is also good for lamp sockets. Again, work the contacts (install and remove lamp) a few times to rub the contacts. I have even cured the expensive radio control switches on the back of my truck steering wheel with this stuff.
 

Davodeth

Member
thanks for the responses everyone.....wdk to answer your question, the lights are stock lights and i buy replacements at wal mart or auto parts stores...so regular lighting. As far as switching to led lights, i would do that. I am flexible so it sounds much better to switch over to led lights. now that you mention it, i believe it could be a power- related issue. I have two batteries and while one is registering at almost 15 volts, the other is measuring 12 volts (they are linked together). I also had an issue with my slides not having enough power to close. I called my brother to see if he had any ideas on what could be the issue. Approximately 30 minutes later, I tried again and they closed with ease. hope this additional info helps, and not clouds, the issue at hand.
thank you so much, once again, for you time and assistance
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
So your brother gets a call and soon after your slides worked fine. Did he have an idea that fixed your problem?
The voltage difference between the two batteries is suspect to me.
What was the fix?

Peace
Dave
 

wdk450

Well-known member
15 volts on a battery is too much. The Progressive chargers only put out 14.4 volts maximum. Measure the battery again with no charging on, and if it still measures wrong, pull it out and have it checked at an auto parts store.

2 - 12 volt batteries should be wired in parallel, and only measure differently when the wiring is disconnected.

You can buy the LED bulbs on E-Bay. Do a search for something like "RV LED Bulb".
 

Davodeth

Member
okay everyone...thank you for your responses....i want to clarify that my charge on the first battery is 14.4 volts and the other is just under 12 volts. I am going to replace the second battery (the one with the lower charge) next week when i get paid (just paid $3000 for work on my 2015 chevy 2500 diesel truck). also in response to dave, i didn't do anything to restore power to my slides. I went about rigging down the rest of the trailer inside and out. Then I tried the slide button again and they all pulled in easily with plenty of power. I also found an earlier entry from a member that was able to fix a similar problem. His issue was a poor connection within a wire nut. I am going to pull apart all my connections and make sure they are making good contact and tape them together with electrical tape so they don't come loose and replace the weaker battery and I will update this thread with the result......gracias mi amigos....adios.....arriba arriba rapido rapido
 

wdk450

Well-known member
David:
A good chance you are on the right track checking connections. Remember that the biggest connections near the battery carry the biggest currents, and your slides are a big current draw. Tug on any large wire crimped wire connections to see if you can make them come apart (then fix them!).

I personally don't like crimped connections as much as I like soldered or brazed connections, but I know there is a factor of stranded cable soldered connections having the strands break due to road vibrations. The best crimping tool I ever saw was with some civilian contractors doing work for my Navy base in Germany - Their crimp tools used a 4 anvils at 90 degrees from the next anvil and a ratcheting mechanism to make a tight crimp of the connector tube on the wire.
 
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