Quick Question about 15k Hitch

wagenman

Active Member
I added one more question down a little ways..please if anybody has any information on this on help me out.. Its a question on my rear slide not going out all the way....


OK..make that two real stupid questions....

First off, as you can all tell by my type of questions I am fairly new to rv'ing and this is my first new 5ver...so please bear with me i'm learning...lol

First question- My hitch is a 15K, I would have to assume that means that it is good for towing up to 15,000 pounds or am i wrong of assuming that?

Second-- How do you get the stupid stickers off the bathroom faucet and sink with out damage... I have been told several products from fellow neighbors, but then he followed it up with "oh yea wear gloves and dont let it get on anything else".. and that make me hunch... Please give me your tips on what you did...

Not a good idea Heartland on the placement of those... :-(
 
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SmokeyBare

Well-known member
Welcome to the RV life... Welcome to Heartland's Owners Form.

First Question.... yes the Hitch is designed for any RV 15,000 pounds or less. In fact all Hitch companies seem to over build them so there is always in their view... a safety factor in their product. That being said... I'd still always use a hitch with-in the factory's weight limit.

Second Question... I have used with good success a product called "GOO-GONE". It has always worked well for any sticky glue from lables and such... below is a link:

http://www.magicamerican.com/

I have also have used a product called WD-40... which is a lub spray with many different uses... below is a Link to some of those uses:

http://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/

Good Luck !!
 

pmmjarrett

Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Your questions arn't stupid, and in fact you were smart enough to ask.;)

Yes 15k hitch is good for towing up to 15,000 lbs. One other thing to consider besides the gross weight rating of the hitch is the weight rating for pin weight too when purchasing a fifth wheel or gooseneck.
 

wagenman

Active Member
thnk you for the replys... your all very helpful. So how do i find what my pin weight should be for the hitch..and what the actual pin weight is of the trailer?
 

pmmjarrett

Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
thnk you for the replys... your all very helpful. So how do i find what my pin weight should be for the hitch..and what the actual pin weight is of the trailer?

  1. There should be a decal on the fifth wheel, if not contact the fifth wheel manufacturer..... If you post what you have here somebody might know.
  2. Take it to the scale when the trailer is loaded.
You have a 15,000 lb rated fifth wheel and towing an 11,870 GVW rated Sundance that is much lighter on the pin than the BC, BH etc....

IMHO you have nothing to worry about and no real need to upgrade to a 16k - 23k 5th wheel unless you like to hit small nails with a sledge hammer or your fifth wheel is just wore out and you plan to move into a bigger unit soon.
 

wagenman

Active Member
Well thats good to hear... I figured I was ok with my weights, but just get a little nervous.. My new 5ver is around 2500 pounds heavy'r then my old one... But that why I come here to ask, cause at the dealer they say.. oh you can tow anything cause they want to make the sale.. here I know I will get straight answers that are the truth even if its not what people want to hear...

Again Thanks for the help and information...
 

boatdoc

Well-known member
I was told last year by one of the bigshots at RBW that most all the hitch makers build the hitches at about 40% higher rated than stickered for the cover your *** factor. In the same sentence he said never go over on the weight as if something does happen you could be liable for being overloaded.
 

wagenman

Active Member
I am adding this to this set of questions just cause it will be no good after tomorrow...

I am going in for my first round of warranty work tomorrow morning, and have a concern. My rear bunk slide does not seem to go out all the way at the top. It gets real tight at the bottom but is real loose at the top when fully extended..

My question is, has anybody ever had this adjustment done before, and if they did can you tell me what they did?

I just want to know going into this tomorrow, the dealer is starting to make me wonder if they know what to do.. and if I have a basic understanding of it, it could help out tomorrow...

please help...

mike
 

slmayor

Founding California Northern Chapter Leader
Although I'm not sure exactly what my dealers do when they adjust the slides, they have led me to believe it's no great problem. :)
On this site is a link to the slideout manufacturer and you can download the info that shows how to adjust them. We adjusted the one we had on the class A a couple times, but have let the dealer do the 5er under warranty. Mostly it's just a matter of adjusting a couple bolts on the bottom of the slide out arms. Not too tough if you have to do it yourself, but you will be under warranty for awhile.
Ours is back for it's final warranty trip after a year of using it. No big items just little stuff that wasn't worth the drive until we needed to get it in under warranty.
We tried something different this time. About a week before our appointment, I sent a list and good digital photos to my dealer and they had the list pre-authorized by HL and the parts ordered by the time I dropped the trailer off. Shaved off a week or two of down time. I can't stand not having my Big Horn in my yard ready to go, besides everytime I need something I remember it's still in the trailer. LOL
 

MROPE

Member
Wagenman , we to have a 2998rb , and i asked the same ? to my dealer . the answer i got was the slide being so small that there was not enough weight on the slide in the out position . our fix was to store stuff under the bottom bunk . it still seals ok , we have not had any leaks in the bunk room . hope this helps , marv
 

wagenman

Active Member
It all helps thank you both for the replys.... Although Marv I would be very sceptical about leaving mine as loose as it is... I can deal with a little play but mine moves in and out at least an inch to inch and a half...

If they tell me that today when I am in there I will let you know.. and the next person I would ask is the factory...


Then if they all say the same thing.. I guess I will just have to deal with it, as long as it does not leak...

Again thanks Gentlemen for the information.. I am really glad to hear this should be a easy fix... and I will be looking for the link..
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Mike,

I suggest you advise your dealer that you were remiss in doing a true PDI and that it is your intention to spend a few hours doing so when you pick the unit up. And that you'd like it connected to power and water when you arrive.

Then test it all out.

Jim
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Mike, I had the same problem with one of my slides. It is an easy fix. There are 2 vertical bolts on the slide arms and 4 (I think as mine did they are slotted) that you loosen and just back off the vertical bolts. As you loosen them the top of the slide will tilt out . My dealer didn't fix mine so I just did it myself. It took me about a hour to do all 3 slides. Bob:D:D:eek:
 

wagenman

Active Member
Thanks Bob for the advice...It was nice to know going into this that it should be that easy for a dealership to take care of... They did the adjustment with out any problems.. they said that the bottom was just coming out to far and that made the top kick in a little too much.. and sure enough the test was good.. good seal all the way around it.

I also was able to work with them during the winterization... very easy to do.. from now on I will be able to do it myself....

Again thanks all for the help..
 
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