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2019_V22
01-19-2019, 07:26 PM
Time to start a new thread for reference purposes.
Too many quality control issues to sort out. Fortunately the South Carolina winter months are just the right time for that.

The furnace was tackled today. On a cold day, when the trailer has been sitting long enough to match the exterior temp, the furnace will run, and heat, but was shutting down the burner leaving the fan running, then cycling the burner back on till the desired trailer temp was met, all the while the thermostat was continually calling for heat.
The discovery of an unsealed furnace and duct collars was the issue. This was causing the return air thermostat to trip as the furnace was drawing in unsealed discharge air from the ducts. So the furnace was completely removed, and sealed up. And it made a definite improvement in both air flow, and how it cycles. Some excess duct was removed, and a new hole was cut under the dinette bench to allow both runs to be moved, and better line up with the plenum.


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2019_V22
01-19-2019, 07:45 PM
In order to gain decent access to the furnace, the microwave had to be removed, and the chip board floor lifted. This led to the same discovery as others have found. When the stainless trim screws were removed, the microwave dropped about nearly one half inch. This revealed that the microwave was not firmly resting on it's own feet, and only being supported by the stainless install frame. That has led to undue stress on the frame, and causing it to crack and break as others have mentioned. As part of the microwave install, there was a metal base plate with 3 pieces of foam, forming an open square. This was supposed to be mounted directly underneath the microwave, instead it was screwed the the far rear left corner of the interior floor. When properly installed, the metal with foam allows the microwave to wither draw, or discharge air from underneath within the foam area and utilize the lower install trim vents for this purpose. This too was corrected by relocating the metal plate under the microwave, and shimming the underside up, on the left and right with 2 full size wooden paint stir sticks, running front to back under where the feet from the microwave would rest. This was all screwed down.

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- - - Updated - - -

Since the mattress needs to be removed to gain access to the water heater, water pump, and under storage that is not accessible from the rear trap door, a protective layer of thin carpet from Lowe's was added and stapled to all 3 pieces of chip board to prevent chaffing to the mattress. This also insures the mattress does not move.

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The remaining scrap carpet was cut, and tucked under the aluminum threshold.

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2019_V22
01-19-2019, 07:56 PM
On 2 occasions the house battery was drained down from a full charge, to about 4 volts within a matter of 2.5 days. A battery monitor is in the works. But until then a Blue Sea M series single disconnect has been installed. There is ample space above the onboard fuse box in the filler panel for this and other gauges. The battery voltage was measured at the terminal lugs on the inverter/fuse box unit, when the battery disconnect was turned off, the inverter took over 1.5 minutes to drain down to zero. It's obvious there are charge capacitors in the system, but their discharge rate would suggest that their demand to stay charged when the battery power is on, along with the radio, and gas leak detector standby consumption, is high enough to drain a new fully charged battery in no time. Once the battery monitor is installed, I will have a better understanding where the greatest parasitic draw is.



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2019_V22
01-20-2019, 07:13 PM
Today the weather broke some and allowed me to tackle the perimeter underside. The factory covers the underside of the wood floor with a woven plastic sheeting, prior to installation over the frame. I have forgotten the name of it. Shortly after my purchase and while doing the at home acquaintance inspection, I discovered that the woven sheeting material had been pulled away from the drivers fender well area during manufacture. This allowed raw floor framing to become visible, obviously not something to be let go, especially around the wheel area regardless of weather. A simple resolution was to coat both galvanized fender liners, and surrounding area with a petroleum based cold tar. This would seal the metal, the exposed wood, and give much longer life to the woven plastic barrier. In addition, the perimeter floor structure beyond the main trailer frame needed extra insurance against wear and tear, and possible rodent intrusion when idle. Aluminum flashing already avail in the 15" width from Lowe's was used. It's a bit rudimentary, but when the only way to install is on your back, you just do your best. Some final sealing around the gas lines is left.
Eventually the plastic corrugated under belly will be improved too.


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2019_V22
01-26-2019, 07:46 PM
Dinette table mount correction.

Really? Well, it's fixed now.
The center 3 screws are secured into the wall stud.



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- - - Updated - - -

Moving right along, an under-counter soap dispenser is in order.


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- - - Updated - - -

I can actually use the shower if the need arises, due to my being slender, so a dispenser was added there too.


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2019_V22
01-26-2019, 08:02 PM
I managed to inflict injury on the very first day, finally got this corrected, and I like the fix better than the original bare corner.

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2019_V22
02-02-2019, 06:24 PM
The hidden area of the vanity where the heat duct, and water lines are, needed some love. The water lines were actually resting on the topside of the metal fender well. I un-screwed the fittings at the faucet, cut the extra PEX tube off, and re inserted and clamped the fittings. This allows for insulation to be added under the water lines, and on top of the metal fender well. I also cut a 1/4" x 1/4" hole in the heat duct to allow for a small amount of heat to fill the area. This will be added insurance when I use the trailer during cold temps.

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2019_V22
02-02-2019, 06:45 PM
The TV mount was next on the list. It was leaning away from the wall, and taking the wall with it, at the top of the mount plate. I removed everything, and realized that there was a backing board in the wall, just not where the TV was. Rather than move the TV over the backer board, and have it too low, and in the doorway, I simply added 2 steel bars across the 16" on center wall studs. Once everything was drilled, and pre-fit, the bars were painted.

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jbeletti
02-03-2019, 04:05 PM
Excellent work on the TV mount mod! Thanks for sharing with pics :)

Also, how did you confirm there was structure in the wall and what was the structure (plywood or sheet metal)?

2019_V22
02-03-2019, 07:35 PM
The backing material appears to be of wood. Simply pressing and probing on the wall board by hand, revealed the wall studs at 16" on center, and the backing board resembling the same footprint as the TV mount plate. It just happened to be lower and to the right of where the TV was mounted. If moved to that spot, it would've been too low, and in the opening of the doorway. The TV is extremely secure at this point.

2019_V22
02-03-2019, 08:06 PM
Today I was able to implement my fridge fan idea. Although a completed project for now, it's completely reversible, and improvable if need be. A possible improvement would be a larger 3rd centrifugal motor in the middle, with a multi position switch to select the 2 small fans, or all 3 at once. It was a very simple mod, and merely took patience and thought. At 28 years in the HVAC, and appliance service industry, it made complete sense to add this. I simply ordered another white plastic crisper cover, it was already the size needed, and no modification was made to it"s dimensions. The micro fans came from Amazon. So simply, holes were drilled, and the fans were added to the plastic sheet, a strip of 3M automotive molding tape affixed to the front edge. This will allow the plastic to be stuck to the front ceiling fridge liner, leaving the rear to simply rest on the top of the cooling fins. White latex caulk will fill the small gap on the left and right of the plastic panel to the liner. The fans pull air in on only one face, and discharge on the side. There is about 20mm of depth in that part of the ceiling, this is probably to accommodate taller items on the top shelf, I felt that forced air circulation was more important than a few extra mm of top space. The wiring was done by tapping off of J2 on the main board. This terminal becomes active with 12v shortly after the fridge is powered on, it's the circuit that feeds voltage to the light switch, and mullion heater, labeled Heater/Light. These fans only draw 0.1 of an amp. Each fan was fused by the maker. The wire set was brought in through the same opening as the factory fridge thermistor, then hot glued along it's way to the top. I have seen many ready made fan systems, as well as many self made ideas. I personally feel I have made the best set up for me, It's most important that airflow be present across all fins at once, not just some, or a few. This achieves just that by sending a curtain of air across the ceiling which turns down and over all cooling fins.

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jbeletti
02-04-2019, 12:24 AM
Very cool interior fridge fan mod. Be sure to share your test results after some time with it.

jbeletti
02-04-2019, 12:25 AM
The backing material appears to be of wood. Simply pressing and probing on the wall board by hand, revealed the wall studs at 16" on center, and the backing board resembling the same footprint as the TV mount plate. It just happened to be lower and to the right of where the TV was mounted. If moved to that spot, it would've been too low, and in the opening of the doorway. The TV is extremely secure at this point.

Cool - I figured you did some method of probing. Sorry to hear about the dorky mfr placement of the backer.

2019_V22
02-04-2019, 06:29 AM
Cool - I figured you did some method of probing. Sorry to hear about the dorky mfr placement of the backer.


In this video starting at the 3:27 mark you can see the TV placement was very different. Not exactly where my backing board was found, but pretty clear a standard placement may not have ever been established.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kv8tPLTTuns

2019_V22
02-07-2019, 08:25 PM
Once I had seen the prototype V21, and the rail trim atop the fridge, I knew I wanted something similar. A friend of mine had a teak trim from his sailboat that was salvaged after it sank in a storm. We cut the teak at 24" wide, by 28" deep, this gave a 2.5" inset atop the fridge board. Once the teak was cut, lightly sanded, and stained with a plain natural stain the corners were nailed and glued together, then the unit was secured to the top board.


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Prototype
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2019_V22
02-14-2019, 04:49 PM
Sometimes it's just the little things.
No explanation needed here.
1 person, directions read, 15 minutes, Done..!!


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Original window, glass and frame



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avvidclif
02-14-2019, 05:38 PM
Where did you find the shade? I need one of those but never found one.

2019_V22
02-14-2019, 05:49 PM
Where did you find the shade? I need one of those but never found one.

PPL is running a sale

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-covers-tire-windshield/window-covers/rv-door-window-slim-shade-black_20.1562?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInNaNjai84AIVkYbACh 3JxwEZEAYYASABEgJ_RfD_BwE


I have found this distributor to be overall cheaper on a lot of various items. It's where I made my purchase.

https://www.rvpartscountry.com/search.asp?keyword=slim+shade&www=

(https://www.rvpartscountry.com/search.asp?keyword=slim+shade&www=)



Here is the manufacture catalog, page 13

http://approducts.net/PDFs/catalogs/AP_ServiceCat_2017_sm.pdf


(http://approducts.net/PDFs/catalogs/AP_ServiceCat_2017_sm.pdf)https://www.approducts.net/

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
02-14-2019, 07:01 PM
PPL is running a sale

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-covers-tire-windshield/window-covers/rv-door-window-slim-shade-black_20.1562?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInNaNjai84AIVkYbACh 3JxwEZEAYYASABEgJ_RfD_BwE


I have found this distributor to be overall cheaper on a lot of items items. It's where I made my purchase.

https://www.rvpartscountry.com/search.asp?keyword=slim+shade&www=

(https://www.rvpartscountry.com/search.asp?keyword=slim+shade&www=)



Here is the manufacture catalog, page 13

http://approducts.net/PDFs/catalogs/AP_ServiceCat_2017_sm.pdf


(http://approducts.net/PDFs/catalogs/AP_ServiceCat_2017_sm.pdf)https://www.approducts.net/


Very nice Mods and repairs.
The issue I have with that door shade is you can't get to it through the screen door. You have to open the doors and stand on the steps to operate it correct ?

avvidclif
02-14-2019, 09:52 PM
I want to thank you for the original post on the door shade. Not only did I find something I have been wanting but by looking at their (AP Products) catalog I found a world of oddball RV parts that a do-it-yourself-er like myself felt like I found nirvana. The website isn't the best but if you have patience you can probably find about anything.

THANKS

VMooreSR
02-14-2019, 10:47 PM
Very nice Mods and repairs.
The issue I have with that door shade is you can't get to it through the screen door. You have to open the doors and stand on the steps to operate it correct ?

Jerrod, hereís one that you donít have to fumble around the screen door. http://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/rv-door-window-kit/

Vince

TravelTiger
02-14-2019, 11:11 PM
Jerrod, hereís one that you donít have to fumble around the screen door. http://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/rv-door-window-kit/

Vince

Yes I love my Zarcor! Replace the glass with clear, and it's very easy to see between the slats in the open position.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2019_V22
02-15-2019, 12:34 AM
Very nice Mods and repairs.
The issue I have with that door shade is you can't get to it through the screen door. You have to open the doors and stand on the steps to operate it correct ?

Yes correct.

Unless you prefer this style, which allows you to operate their design using the access slide on the screen door.


https://www.amazon.com/CloZures-Controls-Privacy-Outside-fingertip/dp/B077Y6LGSF/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550208428&sr=8-3&keywords=rv+slim+shade

- - - Updated - - -


I want to thank you for the original post on the door shade. Not only did I find something I have been wanting but by looking at their (AP Products) catalog I found a world of oddball RV parts that a do-it-yourself-er like myself felt like I found nirvana. The website isn't the best but if you have patience you can probably find about anything.

THANKS

Their site is not the best, and I haven't called them to understand if they sell to the public. I always prefer to go straight to the manufacture for any parts or accessories over a dealer. It never ceases to amaze me how much stuff Camco offers for instance.

Here is their catalog link.

http://approducts.net/catalogs.htm

2019_V22
03-03-2019, 06:18 PM
Who doesn't like over countertop lighting?
Well, I added LED tape to the underside of the window ledge. Not the exact coverage over the countertop I wanted, but given the limited place to affix the LED's and keep them completely out of view even when seated. they"ll do.
A matching double switch, and spacer plate, as used in the bedroom was ordered from Heartland, and replaced the existing single switch for the blue countertop lights. Wiring was very tricky. I had to pull out excess LED countertop wire from the wall in the corner where it came out, cut it and use that as my fish tape. A coat hanger wasn't working. From there the wires were run into the cabinet and along the back wall under the cooktop, continuing under the countertop through an existing gap, and into the cabinet space under the window. From there a hole was drilled just under the countertop below the outlet, the wire was fished up through the removed outlet, a channel cut in the wall board, then secured to the underside of the window sill shelf. Due to extra framework, and structural work in that area, this was the only way to get wiring up there.
Matching wall seam tape will be ordered and will make the channel disappear. A dimmer was added at the corner of the window sill, a disconnect plug in the center where the two window sills meet, and another disconnect plug on the right where the dimmer is. This will allow removal of either window sill assembly.

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Seam tape and wall paper has arrived.

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2019_V22
03-03-2019, 06:36 PM
The trailer got used for the first time last weekend. Seemed to perform well, and was very functional. My fridge mod worked out great. I plan to use my data logger and get some real numbers on cooling speed and efficiency.
While driving to the state park, it was raining, so driving head on into the rain revealed a windshield leak, are you listening Heartland? All 3 panels had fine beads of water running in from the top. Further inspection after the window sill was removed, showed that it's been leaking since before I purchased it. I've spoken to the dealer, it appears they will work with me in getting this resolved. The nearest Heartland dealer is at least 1.5 - 2 hours away. Siting in my driveway awaiting dryer ground so I can finish the carport expansion. it's been rained on a fair amount, and no leaks while sitting there.

2019_V22
03-10-2019, 05:13 PM
Simple quickie adjustment. It required adding slack to the water line, of which I was going to add a shut off. Some of the parts I bought did not work, I left myself with a brass PEX coupling I can replace with a shut off later. With the toilette square in that small of a space, it makes it crammed to use. Rotated away from the wall, this gives more comfort space. I wanted to rotate a little more, but I was at the end of the flange bolt slots. My black system is still new, and has not been used yet.

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2019_V22
03-10-2019, 05:24 PM
It never dawned on my that my bathroom door was hinged backwards, even after reading other peoples posts about how the door won't open when the jackknife sofa is in use. One could argue that the door swing is a mere preference. It finally registered after recently seeing the Heartland floor plan pic which showed the door hinged on the right. A fairly simple fix to rotate 90 degrees, and swap jamb trims.

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2019_V22
03-10-2019, 06:06 PM
The simple bi-metal magnetic furnace thermostat is pretty basic, and didn't offer a decent room thermometer. My search kept coming up empty for a simple 12V digital non battery furnace only thermostat. I called Dometic, and ended up doing the entire Furnace/AC upgrade.
This consists of adding the supplementary electric heat to the rooftop unit, a digital thermostat, a new control box, and a replacement non mechanical (knobs) ADB (air distribution box).
The challenge was thermostat wiring, knowing that I was already equipped with a 7 conductor thermostat wire from the furnace to the thermostat, If I could access it I would be good. The new control box requires the AC 110V, and DC 12V fed directly to it, it then distributes the 12V to the furnace, and thermostat. Luckily I located the thermostat wire in the ceiling over the pass speaker, from here I pulled a separate 8 conductor thermostat wire from the AC unit to the speaker through the ceiling. This allowed me to "T" into the existing wiring and allow everything to happen. Within Dometic's design of the foam enclosure, a pocket was intentionally made to house the control box. The 110V had to be extended too. Everything is now controlled from the wall thermostat, no more knobs on the interior portion of the AC unit. The thermostat will operate the electric heat in the rooftop unit, the furnace, and the air conditioner, it requires no batteries, and has a NV (non volatile) memory. This particular kit did not offer a Bluetooth thermostat, but a stand alone Bluetooth thermostat can be purchased and swapped out with the current one.







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Part# 3314998.000


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Temp readout not photographing well, but is very visible.

2019_V22
03-10-2019, 06:18 PM
A porch light was also added. An easy install as the light was installed just above and off to one side slightly from the main interior switch panel. There are blank spots left from prototype, and the V21 designs. One is labeled Wall Light, this will be used to power the light. Solid construction, metal base, heavy poly carbonate lens, and water proof. I think it may be very bright, but it can serve as not only a porch light, but a flood light. A dimmer can be added later if needed.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Lighting/Optronics/UCL41CB.html (https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Lighting/Optronics/UCL41CB.html)



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jbeletti
03-10-2019, 09:06 PM
Nice mod! They're sure proud of that light. But it is submersible - just in case :)

Seriously though - your work product is great. Keep the mods, fixes and pics coming.

2019_V22
03-27-2019, 07:07 PM
An update to the porch light, very bright, will double as a flood/security light, and porch light. A dimmer with an off setting was added to control the light for now. Walt at KIB who made the switch panel was very helpful and got me squared away with a couple panel switches, and blank plates that were made for my convenience panel. I have ordered a PIR motion sensor, this will be added on the exterior near the new LED light, inside a new rocker switch will fill the current place of where the dimmer which is installed into the "Wall Light" location. The dimmer will be neatly moved above the top row of switches.
The rocker will be a on, on switch with no off. Up for on, down for on. In the up setting voltage will be fed to the motion sensor, in the down setting voltage will be fed to the dimmer, which has it's own off setting, this will allow full dual purpose of the new LED fixture. Additionally when the awning is out, the new light will reflect off the white underside, can be controlled, and will really add to task lighting.


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2019_V22
03-27-2019, 07:50 PM
Progressive Industries Surge Protector added.
A surge protector has been on the list, and was finally added. This unit offers a few nice features. On my last and first trip using the Terry at a state park, I detected a foul odor on the last day while packing up. It was coming from the under bed storage area, and only detectable from the rear door. It bothered me, but I couldn't find the source. Once I opened things up to install the surge protector it all became clear.
Now keep in mind, I went over this trailer within the first few weeks checking all systems out. I have a 28 year background in HVAC, and appliance service. When I found all the 110v terminal lugs loose within the converter panel, which required tightening, I turned my sights to the shore connect J box. Those wire nutted connections were loose too. I thought I was satisfied with just snugging the wire nuts, and never removed them to see how much wire was actually made available when the casing was stripped back. In stating the facts, there was not enough wire made avail to create a strong connection within the wire nut. This is the reason the neutral wire and nut had badly burnt under the load of the electric water heater.
To add insult to injury, the surge protector was wired backwards from the factory, and verified when I called the following morning. So when I reluctantly connected against the wiring diagram it didn't work. So I followed my electrical expertise and simply wired it based on the contactor designators.


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2019_V22
04-02-2019, 06:39 PM
Ordered matching wallpaper and seam tape from Heartland to cover the wall brackets I made for both the TV, and dinette table.



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jbeletti
04-02-2019, 07:06 PM
Looks really nice. Just disappears into the wall.

2019_V22
04-06-2019, 12:56 PM
The 2 sided bed facing is slowly becoming a sore spot.
Access to the under bed storage area, and required access to the water heater and plumbing under the mattress, as required to inspect for leaks after connecting to a city water source, or using the fresh water system, is taking a toll on the 2 sided panel facing. The panel has an unprotected edge which was already damaged upon purchase, and is susceptible to continued damage, as well as being easily loosened from the bed framing. A simple reinforcement using basic materials seems to be the ticket.


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Bones
04-08-2019, 06:05 AM
Mods are looking good.

2019_V22
04-08-2019, 02:18 PM
I'm great-full to some of the sub manufactures that I have contacted directly about their products, like KIB, I expressed my needs for specific a switch that fit the OE opening on my convenience panel, calling Heartland would not have worked as the switch was not part of my original build. The porchlight dimmer/motion sensor will take some special bits to complete.

2019_V22
04-13-2019, 07:41 PM
Finally finished the PIR motion sensor location and install today. I had already done trial testing above the door. The front bezel with lens is made to twist off so you can access the LUX, and delay settings. I was able to snap out the retaining ring from the bezel releasing the domed lens so I could paint the bezel ring grey. Since future access may be needed, I decided to cut a hole in the wall over the door, which will be covered by a blank plate covered in the matching wallpaper. The proper rocker switch obtained from KIB was snapped into the unused location marked "Wall Light", the on/on rocker switches between either the motion control, or the dimmer function. Both functions are completely independent.

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2019_V22
04-14-2019, 07:07 AM
Additionally I was able to correct the labeling of the tanks. One of my grey tanks was labeled as both sewer connect, and waste water tank, while the actual black tank was labeled as grey tank2. This was an issue I found mentioned by others in this forum prior to my purchase. I contacted Heartland direct, sent them pics, and they sent me new decals. Two of the tank level sensor wires needed to be reversed too. My forward tank is a grey tank, my middle tank is a grey tank, and the rearward tank is the black tank. The 2 forward grey tanks are combined with a y pipe and 2 gate valves. The forward tank was connected to the "Grey Tank 2" monitor, and the middle tank was connected to the "Grey Tank 1" monitor. I felt the forward should be #1, and the middle should be #2. Trivial, but the exterior labels are printed to say Grey1, and Grey2. In the end everything should jive and be properly labeled.


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2019_V22
04-14-2019, 07:27 AM
An additional cooling fan was added to the provided slot on the Dometic fridge. The T/T was used in March and the weather was really nice, mid 70's. Not even in summer yet, and the condenser thermostat was looking for additional cooling bringing on the single equipped fan. It never hurts to have additional cooling. Combined, the printed load amperage of both fans is still under the circuit fuse rating.

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jbeletti
04-14-2019, 09:35 AM
Your mods are excellent. Time to get to a rally and do a show-and-tell to inspire others in person :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2019_V22
04-14-2019, 07:00 PM
It's only been used twice, I'm using these rainy days to get this stuff done.

2019_V22
05-12-2019, 03:53 PM
Finally got the time to replace the restrictive shower rod with the "Extend a Shower" model by Stomberg Carlson Products. I chose the larger of the 2 sizes.
https://www.strombergcarlson.com/product/extend-a-shower-for-35-to-42-openings/
There was some doubt about the geometry and weather it would work or not, these are really made for a lengthwise, on one wall unit. I managed success just fine. Although not able to completely fold it into the shower area due to the length I cut the center bar to, I can always take a little more off later. Either I give myself a little more usable shower space and not have it fold in all the way, or I give myself a little less and it folds in all the way. The way it folds in now seems to be just fine anyway. I'll be adding a a Beckson Clip Mate to both walls anyway to snap the stowed rod in place while under way. All the folding joints are very fluid and it will swing around on it's own when traveling. I sourced a 4" x 1/8" x 72" aluminum flat bar to secure across multiple wall studs as the rod needs a solid mounting. All screw holes were countersunk. Once wall papered it turned out as I expected.



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2019_V22
05-17-2019, 08:17 PM
Added a nice Caframo SiroccoII 12/24v marine fan w/3 Speeds, and 4 timer settings, and gimbaled design. Mounted it to the bedroom corner to allow the fan to move air in the bedroom, or entry way depending on where you aim it. The fan has some weight, so mounting to the corner 2x2 was the proper thing to do. Fished the wire down the wall and tapped in to the double bedroom switch hot side for power.

https://www.caframolifestylesolutions.com/product/marine/sirocco-ii/


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(https://www.caframolifestylesolutions.com/product/marine/sirocco-ii/)

NP_Chief
05-20-2019, 09:38 AM
Where did you buy the fan? I got a spot in my Torque that is calling for one.

2019_V22
05-20-2019, 02:23 PM
Where did you buy the fan? I got a spot in my Torque that is calling for one.

I found the cheapest on Amazon. There are more than one seller on Amazon too. I use Caframo products for my boats, and I like their quality. That fan is avail in black or white, and auto senses 12/24 volts D/C. It doesn't move an enormous amount of air, but I mainly installed it for nights when the air becomes still, and either the furnace or A/C are set to run and you would not have an open window, in that case it seems it would be more than sufficient to do the job.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LDY4TE4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2019_V22
06-09-2019, 05:15 PM
Decided another fan should be added to the main area as well. Took just a few minutes to get this completed.

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2019_V22
09-03-2019, 04:59 PM
After returning from a July 4th trip for 3 days, 5 hours from home, I noticed the Dicor sealant was simply peeling away from the roof at the base of the antenna, and frontal roof vent over the kitchen. Unbelievable! I'm debating stripping the entire roof and sheeting it with aluminum, or stainless. That will be a future contemplation. In the meantime since I have to disturb the vent to make the repair, I decided to replace the vent all together with the Maxxair Maxxfan Deluxe unit.
Amazingly getting the rest of the Dicor off around the sides, and rear took some time. New butyl tape @ 1" was used under the vent install flange. The install was very simple. I was waiting on the Dicor sealant in the caulk tube to arrive so I screwed the install collar in with only 4 screws so I could pre-fit and test everything. This allowed me to understand that the interior garnish trim didn't need to be trimmed down at all due to the ceiling thickness, and that the remote control would only successfully communicate with the fan unit when directly under it, as the I/R sensor is part of the keypad. A simple fix to this was to take apart a completely new product and modify it. The worse case scenario would be that the I/R sensor, or board would be too weak to communicate, or the extra wire would cause too much resistance in the circuit. I cut the I/R sensor off the board leaving half of the metal leads behind, and simply added wires to all 3 legs soldering at both ends, and using shrink tube to keep things neat and the wires from touching. The result was the ability to use the remote in all open areas of the trailer with out fail. The Dicor sealer that arrived was the Non Sag, Non Leveling flavor, not what I wanted, I used a small amount of that to get it started, and will buy the proper self leveling. The T/T is parked under a carport, so I have all the time I need.


Removal
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Pre-Fit, and held in by a few screws
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Sensor removed, extension wires added
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Extension complete
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Ready to put back together
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Day 2, wrong sealer arrived, final install underway
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Testing location of I/R sensor on the side face of the garnish trim
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Testing location of I/R sensor at an angle on the curve of the garnish trim
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Best location was at an angle on the curve
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Interior install complete
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Exterior almost complete, awaiting self leveling Dicor sealant
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2019_V22
09-04-2019, 05:32 AM
A simple cheap Chinese battery monitor from amazon was added, and seems fairly accurate. It offers state of charge, amps, watts, volts, batt A/H.


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2019_V22
09-11-2019, 06:57 PM
A few more piddly things added.

The rear baggage door was never equipped with a stay, kinda getting old using my head to hold it open. I removed the stay from the passenger side and installed it on the rear door, purchased a magnetic one for the side door.
Bumping into the entry door was becoming a regular thing, and it really takes up space under the awning when open. The ability to unsnap the gas strut at the threshold allows the entry door to open all the way to the tire, so a stainless prop was added, the piece that inserts into the strike is spring loaded to prevent it from slapping around while under way.


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mlpeloquin
09-11-2019, 07:22 PM
I'm debating stripping the entire roof and sheeting it with aluminum, or stainless. That will be a future contemplation.


You better do a weight analysis on that metal roof or even fiberglass.

2019_V22
09-13-2019, 05:30 AM
The additional weight per Sq Ft with thin sheeting would not be of concern. If I decide to add a solar system, then I'll be looking to upgrade the axle. The current weight rating on the axle doesn't leave much room for more. I'll be moving to a Class A diesel in roughly 5 - 10 years for possible full time living, so I'm limiting add-ons to this T/T.

2019_V22
09-21-2019, 07:39 PM
More frivolous spending. ;)

A few reading lights added for the convenience and functionality, literally an all day job as 3 out of 4 were wired within the walls and out of sight factory style.




An Amazon special, sold individually, are 12v, LED, dim-able, and touch activated, the blue accent locator light can be turned off too.

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Using power from the bathroom switch bank, access was made creating a hole on the side of the medicine cabinet once removed.
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Jackknife sofa moved to run wiring for the right hand light which is mounted to the side of the fridge cabinet
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No other option but to staple along the wall, then be hidden by the sofa once installed.
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Best option was to use existing power contained in the lower cabinets, run left and right and down.
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2019_V22
11-17-2019, 06:38 PM
Added a matching USB charger under the TV next to the outlet, this one is in addition to the supplied bedroom one.

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- - - Updated - - -

Decided to add a matching puck light to the underside of the cabinet over the cook-top, this should provide excellent dedicated light over the cook-top. Power was taken from the puck light to the right over the dinette.

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2019_V22
11-17-2019, 06:53 PM
Purchased a matching cabinet door, hinges, and knob from Heartland so I can access the storage space under the bed without lifting the mattress every time. A few finishing touches will be done to the cutout to improve the look, and prevent the edges of the panel board from being bruised. A while back I had seen a member do the same to their V21, I had already been thinking it was needed.


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TravelTiger
11-17-2019, 07:58 PM
Purchased a matching cabinet door, hinges, and knob from Heartland so I can access the storage space under the bed without lifting the mattress every time. A few finishing touches will be done to the cutout to improve the look, and prevent the edges of the panel board from being bruised. A while back I had seen a member do the same to theirs V21, I had already been thinking it was needed.


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Looks great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jbeletti
11-18-2019, 12:21 PM
Purchased a matching cabinet door, hinges, and knob from Heartland so I can access the storage space under the bed without lifting the mattress every time. A few finishing touches will be done to the cutout to improve the look, and prevent the edges of the panel board from being bruised. A while back I had seen a member do the same to their V21, I had already been thinking it was needed.

Nice work!

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
11-18-2019, 12:34 PM
Looking good !!!
Keep it up :)

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

2019_V22
11-18-2019, 06:01 PM
I've only used the camper 4 times now, but each time I recognize an improvement that can be done.

2019_V22
11-24-2019, 05:09 PM
Finished the bed storage door project today.
Used aluminum angle with one side wider than the other, cut and welded together with aluminum rod, covered in the matching woodgrain tape, added closer hardware.


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mlpeloquin
11-24-2019, 05:34 PM
The additional weight per Sq Ft with thin sheeting would not be of concern. If I decide to add a solar system, then I'll be looking to upgrade the axle. The current weight rating on the axle doesn't leave much room for more. I'll be moving to a Class A diesel in roughly 5 - 10 years for possible full time living, so I'm limiting add-ons to this T/T.

Adding higher rated axles does not increase the weight caring capacity. The frame rating will not change and cannot be changed by changing the axles. You might want to look into FlexArmor RV roof.

2019_V22
11-24-2019, 06:02 PM
I have yet to calculate the numbers, but based on the thickness I would choose for aluminum, I wouldn't have any concerns with any overall weight increase if it adds much at all. I am also looking at doing some sort of leader, or wind drag sheeting starting at the very front corner trim, and only covering up to 4' back. This seems to be where the most potential roof abuse occurs when towing. I have also experienced lifting Dicor sealant applied by the factory around the original front roof vent, TV antenna, and a few inches of the front aluminum angle. The roof vent was replaced as noted earlier, and the other 2 spots were cleaned and repaired with new Dicor.

2019_V22
11-24-2019, 06:18 PM
Added what I'm calling storage/not in use dump valve vented caps.
The pictures will do all the explaining, nothing fancy here. The screen is aluminum. The travel trailer doesn't see much use, and long stints between uses. All tanks are always flushed out, but due to the floor of the tank, (as witnessed by removing the rear of the underbelly material to see), they have a low pitched bottom which does not always allow the water to favor the drain. These vented caps will help the tanks to continually vent and air out between the vent stack on the roof, and these caps., while preventing mice etc from entering.


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