2008 3670RL , need help please

pnnf

Member
Hello, I literally just joined and couldn't find a "new comers" section so I hope this is okay to post here. I am getting ready to get out of my current 5'r and I am looking at a 2008 Bighorn 3670RL. Ive only seen it in pictures as it is too far away to go kick the tires but it does look like it is in good condition except for and interior slide-out wall. It is the main door-side slide and its the rear side wall of that slide Im concerned about.

The inner skin toward the interior of the coach right at the fascia has come off the wall framing. Am I correct in thinking that these slide-out walls are "pressed" just like the main body of the fifth wheel? I can only think of two reasons this separation would happen 1) water intrusion 2) some type of impact or binding has "snapped" the inner skin off the framing. I was assured there was no water leak and the slide-out wall ( at least in pics) doesn't look damaged in any way so I am at a loss as to how this could have happened. The salesman said " oh, its an easy fix just put the nails back in and itll be fine..." now Im a carpenter by trade and this doesn't make sense to me unless the walls actually are built nailed together, which i don't think is the case.

Has anyone ever come across this? Is it as bad as I am fearing? I was thinking i could just set and screw the inner skin to the wall framing which would give back some rigidity but I know nothing of the structural integrity of a slide room wall or if this would even be possible. My plan is to add woodwork and skin some walls with stain grade luan. It just so happens that the slide room walls are where the new skins are going to be anyway so i will be covering over the unsightly screw heads if in fact this would work. I will be living in it and it doesn't get moved so there would be no constant moving in and out of the slide, if that would even matter.

Im thinking this is a major problem and bad enough to just let this 5'r go and keep looking but just in case i wanted to ask people who would know before i make up my mind.

Thank you all very much,
I hope to part of the family soon~


V8N4sjr.jpg
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi pnnf,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

Be sure and join our Heartland Owners Club. Then join us at a rally when you can meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.

Enjoy the forum.
Jim M

I moved thread to better area also.
 

pnnf

Member
Hi pnnf,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

Be sure and join our Heartland Owners Club. Then join us at a rally when you can meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.

Enjoy the forum.
Jim M

I moved thread to better area also.

Hi Jim M,
Thank you for the help in getting me to the correct area. Could you please tell me to where I was moved? Also I see you have the same rig that I am looking at purchasing (though a year newer). Are you familiar with what Im posting about?
 

pnnf

Member
Ive been reading a couple posts where others were having problems with bowed interior wall boards. The fix being suggested is some type of construction adhesive and staples or brads. Seems the panels are a bit too long (about an 1/8 inch) so some trimming is being suggested as well. Is that what happened in the pic i posted? If I am understanding these posts correctly its leading me to believe that the inner wall board is attached with staples from the factory? Not a vacume bonded wall like i was thinking. Is all of the structural strength then only in the framing and exterior wall surface? It would be good news to me if the inner skin can be glued and secured to the frame with nails or screws with no compromise to the integrity of the wall. I was thinking that the entire wall structure (outer and interior) served to make one structure ( again, thinking vacume bonded) but if the inner skin is independent I can fix it and not worry about the wall falling apart. If thats the case I may go ahead and buy this rig....

Thanks again for any help~
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I have a 2009 BH3670 and had a slightly similar problem on the wall opposite yours. It was starting to pull away right at the fascia. I used some PL400 construction adhesive I had ( home improvement project) and my brad nailer to reattach it. The installer at the factory had mostly missed the frame board along the edge and nailed into the foam core of the wall. It hasn’t moved in the eight years since.

The inner wall panels are thin luan and humidity is not their friend if they’re not securely fastened.




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pnnf

Member
I have a 2009 BH3670 and had a slightly similar problem on the wall opposite yours. It was starting to pull away right at the fascia. I used some PL400 construction adhesive I had ( home improvement project) and my brad nailer to reattach it. The installer at the factory had mostly missed the frame board along the edge and nailed into the foam core of the wall. It hasn’t moved in the eight years since.

The inner wall panels are thin luan and humidity is not their friend if they’re not securely fastened.




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Okay thank you very much for that, I appreciate it. So then it is more of a cosmetic issue than a structure issue? Am I correct in thinking there won't be a problem with that wall later on, say falling apart?
 

CDN

B and B
Hello,

Do you have external pictures? If the wall outside is secure and straight and the bottom floor (that rots out first) then you might just have a loose panel. I had this happen on a brand new Bighorn, factory just missed staples on this panel. I know the outer wall is vacuum bonded not sure about the side wall of the slide.

Brian
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Good point on the slide floor . Get the seller to take photos of the outside bottom areas of the slide walls at the edge of the floor. If the plywood edges were exposed, there is a good possibility that they’ve rotted due to water being soaked in. Back then, they did not cover them other than with some cosmetic black paint. This forum has plenty of lamentations about it.


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JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Finally got a closer look at that wall on my laptop (was looking on my phone). It looks like the edge trim for the wall panel has separated from the luan. Mine didn't do that, maybe I caught it soon enough. You still might be able to reposition the luan into the trim channel and then glue/staple it back down. You will need to be sure to hit the wood frame around the perimeter of the wall with the staples or brads to get it to hold. When I repaired mine, I shoved the nozzle the adhesive caulking tube as far in as I could and gave it a healthy dose.
 

sengli

Well-known member
Seriously you need to make the time and go and kick those tires, before you decide to buy. Any RV that has sat out in the elements, let alone one, that is this old should be looked over pretty thoroughly. This might be the one and only defect, but you need to know.

If no one has taken the time to keep up the basic maintenance on the exterior caulking there could be some major issue's.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Kick the tires and check the mold date. They’re at least 10 years old, possibly more, if they’re the originals.

Doing your own inspection before you buy it may save you a lot of grief. Appliances, HVAC, seals, caulking and valves, lighting, etc., need to be operated to ensure you don’t get a $$$ surprise after you take it.


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Silverado23

Iowa Chapter Leaders
Have you considered an independent RV Inspection service to take a look. The services may not be cheap but may save you time and money.

If you do hire and RV Inspection service, you should still do your own inspection after you get a satisfactory inspection report.
 
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