Torque 5th wheel Insulation Values

Hey all,

I'm considering a purchase of a preowned Heartland toy hauler. I like the looks of the Cyclone and the Road warrior lines, but the weight of the Torque makes it more appealing. We do a little bit of winter camping (not down to 0, but maybe down to 15). Cyclone and Road warrior publish the R values of their products, but I cant find any information on the Torque's r-values. Is the weight savings partly from removing insulation, any idea? I would be looking at at Torque 291, and for reference I'm comparing to a RW310 and Cyclone 3100
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi DefDude8010,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.

For camping in temps down to 15 (F), you'll want tank heaters which are part of the YETI option (sometimes called the Canadian Arctic Package). If the Torque doesn't have them, I would think you'd want to stick with Cyclone or Road Warrior.
 
Yeah, that's ideally what I'm looking for, unfortunately most units didnt come equipped with the Canadian Arctic or Yeti packages. My work around if I cant find one with a Yeti package would be to install an aftermarket tank heater, which I could do to any of these models. It seems like the RW and Cyclone have similar r-values and if Torque does as well it could be an option. However if part of the weight savings is insulation value then torque definitely isnt an option.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
The YETI package isn't listed as a current Torque option - but I don't know if that's always been the case.

The YETI package also includes additional insulation in front and rear caps, and slideout flooring. And heat tape on the underbelly portion of the fresh water feed line between tank and pump.

On a toy hauler with 100 gallon fresh tank, that's usually 2 tanks that are connected. The gray and black tanks can also freeze. Last I looked, tank heating pads cost about $150 for each tank. It's possible to drop the coroplast and install tank heaters (and heat tape on the water lines) yourself, but it's a fairly large job. And depending on floor plan, sometimes tanks are stacked, making it much harder to install a heating pad on the upper tank.

While I don't know the R-Value difference on Torque compared to Cyclone/RW, you do have to consider that lower weight and lower cost-point trailers in general have lower R-Values.
 
Ok, sounds good. I havent found a Torque brochure over the model years that showed a Yeti or Canadian Arctic Pack, so i would guess it probably wasnt an option or at least not a commonly ordered one. I will definitely keep searching for the Yeti pack RW or Cyclone it sounds like the way to go.
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
Keep in mind that tank heaters are worthless if you are dry camping. You need 120V for them to work. So if your winter camping is with shore power you are fine with tank heaters.
 
Yeah when it's on the colder side we'll go to a powered site. Most of the time we camp in the mountains and even in the summer it can dip down to 20. Nothing a well insulated trailer cant handle with the furnace running, but I'd rather be safe then sorry and plan for colder.
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
Good idea. 20F is not a problem for the Cyclones and others as long as you make sure that any low point drain hoses are insulated and that you insulate the bottom of the UDC from cold air. Put water in the tanks and run from that on cold days where the hose from the water supply might freeze up. Keep the furnace set at a temp that will supply some heat into the basement and you will be fine. I have been drying camping down to 10F with little problem. You just have to be attentive to areas that might freeze.
 
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