Pocket door track

sunriverman

Active Member
2010 Sundance 2900MK
When the pocket door is moved inside the pocket all the way the door hangs out of plumb as the bottom is kicked out into the walkway.
Seems like the rear track screws are loose which allows the pocket door to sag from the rear resulting in the out of plumb door.
any suggestions how to get into the interior of the pocket frame without removing the entire entry cabinet?
Thank you

Rod
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
I would close the door and unlatch the retainers on the rollers, then you can pull the door off of the rollers and out of the way. Then use several long extensions on a drill driver to replace the screws if you can't fit your hand in there.

Hope this helps
Jerrod

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
2010 Sundance 2900MK
When the pocket door is moved inside the pocket all the way the door hangs out of plumb as the bottom is kicked out into the walkway.
Seems like the rear track screws are loose which allows the pocket door to sag from the rear resulting in the out of plumb door.
any suggestions how to get into the interior of the pocket frame without removing the entire entry cabinet?
Thank you

Rod
Wow, I know this thread is old, but someone might need to know how I did it. From the bedroom side, gently remove the little piece of trim mounted near the ceiling on the shower side, about 4 inches long.
then tug on the large trim piece, its wood about 4 inches wide and spans the width of the door. Careful it will give way its held up with little brad nails. After removing that, you will be able to see the channel that the door glides rest in. My door was off both of these. They were way back in behind the entrance cabinet. I used a broom to move them back out where I could see them.
Look at the top of the door, the rear lock, one faces to the right as you are looking at the top of the door from the bedroom. One faces to the right. If both of the plastic locks are still intact you are lucky, or favored by God.
You will need someone to lift bottom of the door so you can force the glides back into the locks at the top of the door.
My wife inserted a broom handle from the kitchen side to the top of the landing of the stairs and picked up the door for me. I used a flat blade screwdriver to move the glides into the lock at the top of the door if the plastic locks are there, clip them in place around the stem of the glide that you just inserted into the lock at the top of the door. The lock was missing on the rear one of mine so I had to be very careful in lifting and installing the front glide, one nearest to the shower. It still had the little lock so I snapped it around the shaft of the glide.
It opens and closes like new again. I suspect that it wasn't secured properly when a previous owner moved the unit, and the door slammed and broke that little plastic lock allowing the rear glide to become detached, then the owner tried to move the door and detached the other one. Moral, make sure the door is secured prior to getting underway. :)
Hope this helps someone, oh and reattach the trim pieces with you brad nailer.
 
Again, with the preface of this being an old thread, my experience might eventually help someone. Our pocket door would pop off of one of the hangers attaching it to the runner and I would then have to fish the running piece along the track back to the hanger piece mounted on top of the door, re-insert it and secure it with the nylon retaining hook. So first of all, this can be done without removing any trim, but you must take the four screws from the track and let it hang down so you can get your fingers and tools in there. The reason the hanger piece would separate is that the nylon retainer was under engineered and got worse as time went by. So, this very day, in preparation to selling our rig, I changed out the hanger pieces on top which the running pieces attach to (the new ones have metal retainers and should last much longer). I had to remove the door entirely to access the top of it. I lowered the track, detached both hangers and then got very frustrated as the door would almost, but not quite come out. Turns out the key was removing the floor guide which I was able to do by lifting the door up with a lever and getting access to the screw holding the guide. After that, the door came right out, five minutes to swap out the hardware and another 10 or so to reverse the process and have the door properly hung and re-attach the track to the top of the frame. Hope this helps someone. Ciao.
 

woodcycl

Member
Again, with the preface of this being an old thread, my experience might eventually help someone. Our pocket door would pop off of one of the hangers attaching it to the runner and I would then have to fish the running piece along the track back to the hanger piece mounted on top of the door, re-insert it and secure it with the nylon retaining hook. So first of all, this can be done without removing any trim, but you must take the four screws from the track and let it hang down so you can get your fingers and tools in there. The reason the hanger piece would separate is that the nylon retainer was under engineered and got worse as time went by. So, this very day, in preparation to selling our rig, I changed out the hanger pieces on top which the running pieces attach to (the new ones have metal retainers and should last much longer). I had to remove the door entirely to access the top of it. I lowered the track, detached both hangers and then got very frustrated as the door would almost, but not quite come out. Turns out the key was removing the floor guide which I was able to do by lifting the door up with a lever and getting access to the screw holding the guide. After that, the door came right out, five minutes to swap out the hardware and another 10 or so to reverse the process and have the door properly hung and re-attach the track to the top of the frame. Hope this helps someone. Ciao.
Thanks for this information BobieNicole! One of our doors that slide closing off the bedroom continues coming off one of the two hangers and now the hanger pieces have all come apart on our last trip after the drive home. Do you happen to have the parts/pieces hardware numbers or a link to where you obtained them? If not, I may simply call Heartland. Or, did you just buy something close online and it worked for the application? Look forward to hearing from you. Thanks, Brian.
 
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