Furrion rear camera wiring

Dahillbilly

Well-known member
anyone change the rear camera wiring on a 2018 TQ327 from being on full time to with the running lights? If you did let me know how you did it!!
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Your rear camera should be at or near the top in the back. There are running lights at the top front, rear, and along the sides. Remove one of the lights close to the camera. Tap into the 12V line there and rout it to the camera. When you turn the running lights on, the camera will be on. You may have to be creative using 12ga solid wire to pull the wire where you want it.
 

LBR

Well-known member
anyone change the rear camera wiring on a 2018 TQ327 from being on full time to with the running lights? If you did let me know how you did it!!

Haven't done it on a 2018 TQ327. Did it on my 2017 CY4018 tho...a little extra wire and some time did the trick.
 

pedirob

Member
Mine came prewired without the camera. I installed the camera, and found it only works with the running lights on. That's how they prewired it.

So I keep the running lights on when I'm driving. I like having the camera on all the time. I find it very helpful to have that rear view when changing lanes or to see if people are behind me.

On a side note, the prewire came with about 10 feet of extra cord that filled up all the space in the box. To get the camera to fit, I had to shorten the cord and splice it, which negated the instant plug and play benefit.

Rob
North Trail 24BHS
 

Dahillbilly

Well-known member
Mine came prewired without the camera. I installed the camera, and found it only works with the running lights on. That's how they prewired it.

So I keep the running lights on when I'm driving. I like having the camera on all the time. I find it very helpful to have that rear view when changing lanes or to see if people are behind me.

On a side note, the prewire came with about 10 feet of extra cord that filled up all the space in the box. To get the camera to fit, I had to shorten the cord and splice it, which negated the instant plug and play benefit.

Rob
North Trail 24BHS

the newer models come wired that way, mine came hot wired to the fans, now to trace the wire & change it over to the running lights; drains the battery when not on shore power. that's why I wanna change it.
 
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jmarnell

Well-known member
On our Cyclone, the wire and 15 amp fuse that power the rear camera were easily accessible in the front battery compartment, I picked up a simple 12V toggle switch and some wire, pulled the fuse, cut the wire and spliced in the toggle switch. Popped the fuse back in and now I can easily turn the camera on and off with the toggle switch.
 

waltj

Member
A little late to the party, but I have the same issue with the rear camera pre-wire always on. I like the idea of the remote relay, but there will still be a nominal draw on the battery. Has any one found the actual point where the 12vdc is picked off for the camera? I know that on my 2021 torque 371 toy hauler, fuse # 7 is the source. That is power to A/C control and vent fans. The wire to the camera is a white- white/yellow pair (same as #7 output).
 

Dahillbilly

Well-known member
Wired mine into the running lights. Easy to do,just removed the camera mount & pulled the wire out some. Then removed one of the marker lights. Tied the camera wires into the marker light wires & replaced everything.
 

waltj

Member
That is an option, but it leaves an energize wire that does not belong any more. Do nothing wires with power, even if properly terminated, are bothersome.
Walt
 

Dahillbilly

Well-known member
That is an option, but it leaves an energize wire that does not belong any more. Do nothing wires with power, even if properly terminated, are bothersome.
Walt
True but you wouldn't believe all of the extra live wiring in an RV & if properly terminated and secured no harm done. Plus now I know where I have an extra circuit.
 

LBR

Well-known member
That is an option, but it leaves an energize wire that does not belong any more. Do nothing wires with power, even if properly terminated, are bothersome.
Walt
I extended the hot side of the camera wire (in the battery bay) up to the pinbox 7-way connector and tied into the taillight circuit. Since I always tow with park lights or headlights on, the camera always works when needed, and shuts off when not.

This will still use your dedicated, heavy gauge wire to camera with very little voltage/amperage loss, vs. tagging into a clearance light in back and sharing the entire trailer lighting circuit.

If I had done so, my camera would be at the end of a daisy-chained 16 clearance, 2 taillight, 1 license plate light circuit instead of it's own dedicated circuit as factory designed. More clean voltage/current to camera, the better it can transmit the signal.

I then extended the camera antenna to my ladder on side of Cyclone hauler, and the monitor antenna out to my side mirror. These 2 remote antennas actually have a true line-of-sight with each other now. Drop-outs are not an issue anymore on our 44' trailer and dually setup after doing so.

If you decide to remote your antennas, make sure to get the right pin-outs on the wires and connectors, as it can be confusing on which ones are male/female. All parts were sourced on Amazon.
 
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