Is Camp Site Electrical Source Test Necessary?

I have been reading some camping books. (I know it is better to rely on
the real experts and that is why I am asking this question in this forum). A couple of the books suggested testing the 50 amp source (or 30 amp) for ground, polarity, voltage, phase and a couple of other things I barely understand. Well I have a multi tester and a basic circuit tester for electrical circuits which I can stick in a 120v AC outlet to determine all kinds of good stuff. The books say it is a good idea to test the electric source before going through the effort of backing into the campsite. They are playing to newbies like DW and I who are not very good at backing the 5W yet. But they don't explain how to do the test.

So my question is (to use electrical jargon) two phase.

1. Is it necessary to check the electrical supply before dragging out and plugging that big heavy and dangerous looking 50 amp line into the connection box on the post?

2. If it is, how can I test it? I only have two probes and the 50 amp female
outlet has four contacts. I have been thinking about getting a tricorder like Spock used in Star Trek which test anything without even touching it.
But Campingworld is all out of tricorders the last time I checked.

Thanks for your help. Obviously I don't really understand electricity, but I would rather it not screw up our trailer if it is bad.

FarmerBill (Newbie)

I read the same things 3 years ago. To avoid all the trouble you're having, I just bought a Surge Guard. We still back in first, then hook up. But if Surge Guard doesn't like the power source, we get a different site.

Happykayakers is right on. The idea of getting protection for your rig is something you should consider. There are a few brands out there that do an excelent job of it, The Surgeguard brand and the Progressive EMS come to mind. You might even consider an Autoformer. You mentioned testing, so know that some of the more sopisticated units will tell you what the problem is, how much current you are drawing on each 120 leg and shut down on under or over current. As well as the Autoformer will boost or decrease the voltage. Continue doing your homework. Good luck.
Peace
Dave

Here is the situation. You back in, plug in without testing and then turn on the breaker and hold your breath that everything works okay. Without testing somehow you run the risk of: 1. The outlet is dead, no power 2. the outlet is defective, either too much power or not enough power, defective ground or worse, some idiot wired the 50 amp 120 volt outlet for 220 volts, then when you turn it on you fry everything. Why take the risk. Spend the money and buy some surge or circuit protection device. Personally I have the Progressive Industries EMS system. I use it all the time even here at home because even if I know the outlet is good, The EMS protects against surges, and low voltage. You see I have no control over what the electric company supplies and voltages constantly vary up and down and sometimes do spike.

Farmer Bill
There have been some discussions about this on the forum. Many of us that travel full time have to protect our investment. All the electronics can be damaged from over voltage, low voltage or just spikes. 50amp can loose one branch. Here is what many of us use. There are other brands but this is what I use.

http://www.tweetys.com/surge-guard-surge-protectors.aspx

We use the 50A Portable...

Don't mean to hijack the thread ,have related question. I have the 50 amp cord but have a bone to reduce to 30 amp as that is what I have at the place where I park my RV. I know the connections are good as they are on my own property. I have been able to run the elect water heater,A/C and fan, I have not tried the microwave while running the other stuff. No tripped brakers. Do I need to run 50 amps to operate everything or is the 50 amp only if I add a second A/C? Also Would I need a surge protector for 30 and 50 amp?

Thanks alot everyone.

I purchased the 50 amp Portable Surge Guard which is now attached to the end of my 50 amp cord. I wanted to know if there was some pocket sized 50 amp plug-in testing device that the book authors knew about and I didn't.

So if I plug the end of the surge protector into the junction box I now have an exposed joint in my 50 amp line between the 50 amp cord and the surge protector. Should I do anything about this exposed connection to try to keep it watertight?

I did find something called Liquid Electrical Tape at Home Depot which looked promising. It is made for protecting splices which are difficult to tape.

Thanks again for your help.

FarmerBill

tmcran, we have run everything other than the second AC on 30 amps. So far no problems. As far as your surge protection, if you plug the 50 amp into the adapter and then into the receptacle you should be fine. As long as your protection is between the pedestal and the coach. I use the hard wired Progressive EMS, that way no matter what I plug into I am protected. Last fall while camped at my daughters place the only thing we had to plug into was a 20 amp about 125 feet away. I used a #12 wire extension cord (2 of them) and the EMS tripped out because of under current. To much voltage drop for that wire at that length, 104 volts. So I know it works.
Peace
Dave

tmcran said:

Don't mean to hijack the thread ,have related question. I have the 50 amp cord but have a bone to reduce to 30 amp as that is what I have at the place where I park my RV. I know the connections are good as they are on my own property. I have been able to run the elect water heater,A/C and fan, I have not tried the microwave while running the other stuff. No tripped brakers. Do I need to run 50 amps to operate everything or is the 50 amp only if I add a second A/C? Also Would I need a surge protector for 30 and 50 amp?

Click to expand...

When running 30 amps alone on a 50 amp rig you will probably find you cannot run everything like you do on 50 amps. Examples: Running both AC's at the same time probably won't work. Running the AC, water heater on electric setting, Refrigerator on electric, Television and then turning on the microwave will probably result in tripping the 30 amp breaker. There are charts that will list how many amps different appliances will draw. By referring to these charts you can figure out what will work at once. After Hurricane Ike we lived for 2 weeks on our generator running only 30 amps in the RV. We were conservative on the electricity and could not run both ac's at the same time but it is doable.

Thanks for the info. I only have one A/C at this time(living in Texasthat may change.). So It would be best to get the 50 amp protable protector and then I could use the 30 amp with the bone or 50 amps without.

I owned an RV for 3 years before I bought my North Trail last march. I finally joined this forum and the North Trail forum last summer. I have learned so much since then. I ordered my surge protector from Tweetys.com just yesterday. I just wanted to thank everyone who takes their time to share their wealth of experience and knowledge.

tmcran said:

Thanks for the info. I only have one A/C at this time(living in Texasthat may change.). So It would be best to get the 50 amp protable protector and then I could use the 30 amp with the bone or 50 amps without.

Click to expand...

tmcran
You are correct. You can use the 50amp Surge Guard while using the 50-30 adapter. Also you might look for a 50amp extension. When you go to some campgrounds you will find the Surge Guard's top conductor is to short to fit in some boxes and will slip out.. I had to tie mine in once.. and you will find some very low to the ground and you can not fit it onto the shore power box. Right now my Surge Guard is laying on the ground because it will not fit into the shore power without slipping out. The connections are tight enough that you will not have a problem. It has been raining here and everything is working well.

Here is an example of what I am using... http://www.shoprvparts.com/product.do?no=18325F

FWIW

TXBobcat said:

tmcran
You are correct. You can use the 50amp Surge Guard while using the 50-30 adapter. Also you might look for a 50amp extension. When you go to some campgrounds you will find the Surge Guard's top conductor is to short to fit in some boxes and will slip out.. I had to tie mine in once.. and you will find some very low to the ground and you can not fit it onto the shore power box. Right now my Surge Guard is laying on the ground because it will not fit into the shore power without slipping out. The connections are tight enough that you will not have a problem. It has been raining here and everything is working well.

Here is an example of what I am using... http://www.shoprvparts.com/product.do?no=18325F

FWIW

Click to expand...

Very good idea. Will get that when I get the surge guard.

tmcran.. You can run almost everything , just like most have said. The exception would be , of course , if the park breaker is a little tired . It may then trip early. You just adjust your use accordingly.