No more shakin for us!!!

mrcomer · Apr 2, 2009

I received my Ultra Fab Eliminators today, so I started the installation. Got the (4) on the front done before the thunderstorm started. I also got the swing bolt installed on the rear jacks but still need to mount the swing bolt to the frame. Not much to do but would rather not do it while it is lightning outside. Hopefully I will get to finish tomorrow. This also means I get to sell off my BAL tripod.

Later,

jgilbert · Apr 3, 2009

We need pictures when you are finished.

Joe

Nabo · Apr 3, 2009

Yes would love to see how they are attached. Pics please.

mrcomer · Apr 4, 2009

Nabo said:
Yes would love to see how they are attached. Pics please.

Just added the pics to the first post, check them out.

boatdoc · Apr 4, 2009

Hey Mark, Did your instructions show the rears going forward instead of side to side. I looked at your pics and said Holy #$% I put them on wrong!!! I went out to the trailer and got my instructions and mine clearly show them going across towards each other. It also shows the two front cross arms tying to the same point, center of trailer, instead of the big gap your pic shows between the two. Have they changed their thinking on these things since last year?
Gary

boatdoc · Apr 4, 2009

Here's a pic right out of my manual!

mrcomer · Apr 4, 2009

boatdoc said:
Hey Mark, Did your instructions show the rears going forward instead of side to side. I looked at your pics and said Holy #$% I put them on wrong!!! I went out to the trailer and got my instructions and mine clearly show them going across towards each other. It also shows the two front cross arms tying to the same point, center of trailer, instead of the big gap your pic shows between the two. Have they changed their thinking on these things since last year?
Gary

Gary,
I am not one for reading directions as you have so well pointed out. So I went ahead and looked them over again and you are correct but, all of their drawings show the trailers with scissor type jacks on the back so I would agree with their placement of the stabilizers. Maybe it would be ideal for the Lippert style too but I really thought that what I did should work pretty good. If I experianece any shaking I will consider moving them.

Thanks for opening my eyes.

Mark

Pulltab · Apr 4, 2009

Mark, one thing you need to keep an eye on is the floor plate you attached the front ones to. That is just a thin sheetmetal plate and if you preload or forget to loosed the screws it will bend the heck out of it! I had to install a 1-1/4 sq tube with 1/4" wall to attach mine to. Just a thought for you to keep an eye on them. Great job installing them they look good!

Macattack · Apr 4, 2009

Mark,mine look exactly like your's except I have the generator and drilled the holes through the generator frame to get more metal to attach them to. Those 2 plates that are in the first picture are taken out of mine for the air intake and exhaust. From everything I can see, it looks like mine will work great as long as I don't try to put to much weight on the thin plate. For now I'm not going to put the rear ones on until I have tried it out and see if I really need them.

mrcomer · Apr 5, 2009

Pulltab said:
Mark, one thing you need to keep an eye on is the floor plate you attached the front ones to. That is just a thin sheetmetal plate and if you preload or forget to loosed the screws it will bend the heck out of it! I had to install a 1-1/4 sq tube with 1/4" wall to attach mine to. Just a thought for you to keep an eye on them. Great job installing them they look good!

Thanks Tab,
I do have some reinforcement in the front. I have a 3/4" OSB bottom on the inside og the storage compartment. So I had to drill through the sheet metal and the OSB and I also used the (2) holed plates that came with the stabilizers top and bottom. I do like your idea thought for others that need it.

cjbearden · Apr 5, 2009

Macattack, sure would appreciate some pictures of the front installation you did through the generator frame. We are going to have to do the same thing on our Augusta. Do your stabilizers have the gap in front or do they meet in the center?

JohnDar · Apr 5, 2009

Nice pics, Mark. I mounted my fronts together, instead of separated like yours. Put a stiffener pad on both sides of the floor plate. Yanked and cranked on it and it is solid. The bend at the front of the floor plate adds strength to the plate, so it should be fine. Any shear loading force will be borne by the stiffeners and not the floor plate, anyways.

I was considering mounting the rears to the frame in front of the rear jacks like you did, but kept looking at the instructions. Does it seem to work like that? Running them the way the instructions show, there is only thin sheet metal at the bottom of the rear cap and the jack support arms interfere with the struts when retracting.

I haven't mounted the rears yet, so I can follow your method, no problem. Now that I think about it, with the Lippert rears, they provide the side to side restraint and the struts will give fore/aft. Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand instruction manuals.

boatdoc · Apr 5, 2009

I'm starting to think along this line also. I went out last evening and sat there for awhile looking at the rear struts. I think Mark's way has a lot of merrit to it. We have 40' 5ers and it seems it would be better that way. Some testing is on it's way today!

JohnDar · Apr 5, 2009

I went out to the storage yard this afternoon and attached the swing bolts to the frame rail, like Mark did. I thought I'd try that idea of using the longer front bolts for the rear stabilizer pads, substituting a 3" one on the front. Didn't like the lack of threads to fully seat the nut past the end of the bolt, so I left it as is until I get the two longers ones from Ultra-Fab. One thing I did do was replace the jam nuts on the front shackle with the ny-loc nuts. The lift handles were not all that secure, and the jam nuts were removeable with only light finger pressure. Using the ny-loc nuts makes it possible to securely tighten the handles without collapsing the shackle onto the leg.

And then I found two more openings into the underbelly via the sheet metal, but didn't have my "stuff" to fill them.

Ya think HL would know about rodents and their affinity to get inside our rigs and secure those gaps.

Macattack · Apr 5, 2009

J.D. and C.J---Hope these pics help with your install. I did use the stiffener pads on either side of the floor plate. On the street side one, I put a stiffener pad between the floor plate and generator frame. As you can see mine are seperated on the front. If I remember right, the instructions said to measure 30 inches from the inside of the jack leg to the middle of the stiffener pad. Since you already have the triangle effect on the rear jacks, I am going to see how stable the rig is before I put the ones on the rear. Hope this helps you out.

JohnDar · Apr 5, 2009

Macattack said:
J.D. and C.J---Hope these pics help with your install. I did use the stiffener pads on either side of the floor plate. On the street side one, I put a stiffener pad between the floor plate and generator frame. As you can see mine are seperated on the front. If I remember right, the instructions said to measure 30 inches from the inside of the jack leg to the middle of the stiffener pad. Since you already have the triangle effect on the rear jacks, I am going to see how stable the rig is before I put the ones on the rear. Hope this helps you out.

The instructions say to measure 30" from the inside of the front legs if the distance between the legs is over 66" On my 3670, it's only 60", so the struts under the front compartment connect to the same stiffener pads (page 12 of manual). For whatever reason, the instructions say to mount the side struts with the T-handles toward the foot pads, not the frame. Yours are reversed, it appears. That may cause the T-handles to contact the frame when you raise the jacks, maybe.

mrcomer · Apr 6, 2009

Nice pics Mac,
I see now what you generator owners have to deal with. If it were me I think I would add a piece of angle iron to the inside and attach the strut to that thru the sheetmetal floor and add some additional screws thru the sheetmetal floor to the angle iron. If feasible that angle iron would cross over to the other strut location. Not sure that would work because of the sheetmetal cabinet for the generator.

Nice job and thank you for sharing,
Mark

Macattack · Apr 6, 2009

John, You are right about the instructions saying to install the T handles toward the foot pads. It doesn't look like there would be any problem with the way they are on now but I'm going to turn them around anyway. That is what I get for not reading the last part of the instructions. Thanks for catching my mistake. By the way, The distance between the legs on my Augusta is 74 inches.

JohnDar · Apr 6, 2009

Macattack said:
John, You are right about the instructions saying to install the T handles toward the foot pads. It doesn't look like there would be any problem with the way they are on now but I'm going to turn them around anyway. That is what I get for not reading the last part of the instructions. Thanks for catching my mistake. By the way, The distance between the legs on my Augusta is 74 inches.

I've never seen a Landmark in person. I didn't realize they were wider than the Big Horn.

boatdoc · Apr 6, 2009

JohnDar said:
I've never seen a Landmark in person. I didn't realize they were wider than the Big Horn.

Same here!!! Explains the gap.

No more shakin for us!!!

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