Recent content by centerline

Ive seen many aluminum wheels that leak... you can buy crack detector fluid at a welding store and check to see if its a crack or just a pin hole.... pinholes can be repaired with silicone on the inside of the wheel, or by welding on the inside of the wheel.... and if cracked it should be...

try closing the valves on the manifold, and if one of them still comes out, its THAT cylinder that is the problem.... but otherwise it may be a piece of debris in the relief valve.. which the relief valve CAN fail as well as a cylinder can... but the shut off valves will be the best...

the problem people are encountering is that with the integrated trailer brake controllers in modern tow vehicles, if it sees a problem in the trailer brake system, it will cut the power temporarily as it notifies the driver that there is a problem.... in the mean time, there are no brakes on the...

there is no chemical other than paint to get them the color you want.... all the plastic lights, stove vent exit, ac covers, plumbing vent caps and all other plastic parts on the outside of the rv will yellow in time also, but by painting them when they're new, they stay white and dont get...

it sounds as if you need a thermostat wired to the motherboard to reverse those wires when you want it to get colder........:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::cool:

if there isnt any distinguishing features on your RV, then its just another rv similar to all the rest on the market... and as it sets there, priced at you would LIKE to get for it, its just getting older, more weathered and less valuable every day... so a lower price may be the only incentive...

the voltage will decrease as you get closer to the axles.. this is normal, as the brakes work by applying voltage and current to the brake coils, which are GROUNDED and become MAGNETS.... so depending on how many coils there are and the wire size and length of run from the tow vehicle, will...

everything concerning the problem should be found in behind the stereo head unit..... depending on the option package, it may or may not have zone switches to control different speaker zones, but they should be marked... sometimes the switches may mounted into the bottom side of the upper...

the slide seals may need to be replaced if its leaking, but dont overlook the possibility of leaking around the window frame, or at one or more of the screw heads on the sealing flange at the outer corners of the slide-out..... the screws are a common source of leakage, but a layer of eternabond...

for anyone who has a rig with hydraulic issues..... if there are continual problems with the hydraulic system, the relief valve setting should be checked, as too much pressure can cause repeated/continual and unnecessary leaks and hose failures..... the relief valve only needs to be set high...

not a 3750, but I've done it to my 3055.... and added a 3rd axle.

I believe you are correct, but fridge manufactures still offer the 12v/battery operation for those that want it.... I have no idea what heartland may offer as options in their various units, but the 3 way fridge has never been a good option in an RV...

if the system is equipped with a holding valve, it probably has a small piece of debris keeping it from closing all the way.... it only takes a piece about a quarter the size of a small grain of sand...

make sure its set to either AC, or automatic.... because if your fridge has the "battery/12v" option, and if you happen to be running it in this mode, its a very power hungry mode that is intended for short term special purpose use, such as when you NEED to have the fridge RUNNING as you are...