The electrical side of the water heater would not work and after some troubleshooting I isolated it to the rocker switch in the main control panel. After hunting for a replacement, I decided to take Bill Knight's (WDK450) advice (from an older post) and clean the external and internal contacts...
An entire brass body would be nice. It wouldn't surprise me that after seven years my rig's original plastic Anderson body has worn to the point that the core does not seal correctly still allowing water to flow. My water heater bypass valve finally cracked (luckily I caught it before a massive...
I finally had the dreaded fresh tank overfilling from a leaking Anderson valve. I replaced the valve, but it was still bypassing some water and dripping out of the overflow. My fix was to install a PEX shutoff valve to prevent anymore water filling the tank. See the attached picture.
The gas strut bracket came loose from the baggage door and I need a reinforcement to re-install it. I know I've seen it posted here before, but I cannot find what others have used. Does anyone know what I can use to reinforce the door so the bracket screws will not tear out again?
Try setting it to "Cool" and the fan to "Auto". Also, over the years I've had three times where the A/C fan would run, but the compressor not start...I got it to work again by removing power from the whole RV and reconnecting. This reset procedure got everything working again.
I showed the swivel connector to several old-timer RVers, that have made many repairs, and they said they had never seen anything like that before. So I'm sure everyone else is OK.
I'm super happy I changed out the check valve on the water heater. Besides the check valve internal seal coming apart, the swivel head was at imminent failure.
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