RV dump valves.

Has anyone replaced their manual blade valves with electric valves? How difficult is it to do?
My grey #2 won't close and my black water leaks.
2016 landmark charleston.

Seems as if I read some other threads on here a while ago, and the report was that the electric valves can leak just as easily as the manual versions....and are just a lot more expensive.

After owning many RV's I came to the conclusion most valves will leak at some point, as debris gets stuck at the gate. It tends to come lose over time, but my best solution was to add this after-market valve. That way I never have the SURPISE flow of whatever fluid might leak. Great investment at only $49.

https://amzn.to/3vJb5ZM

To actually reply to your question: Yes, I have transitioned between the 3" cable operated valve to the electric valve, Valterra to be precise. The difficulty factor is based on where your current valve is located, if there is room to accommodate the sliding action of the valve, and how many valves you want to replace. For my situation, I had easy access to the valve and I had installed a 12 Vdc outlet in the UDC for a previous need. Just recently I somewhat observed a double valve replacement (two bathrooms) on a Landmark and the process was significantly more complex than on my Bighorn because of the tank locations and the drain manifold that also serviced the gray water drainage. I resisted the swap but now really like the new valve and the installation solved the soft, non-sealing, action of the cable valve. I still see no need to replace the gray tank cable valves as they operate efficiently.

5 or 6 years ago, I replaced my cable valves with Barkley electric operated valves. Have not had a single issue yet and would do it again. My cables were bad and wouldn't close the valves completely, the electric was only $10 more than replacing the cable

Oregon_Camper said:

After owning many RV's I came to the conclusion most valves will leak at some point, as debris gets stuck at the gate. It tends to come lose over time, but my best solution was to add this after-market valve. That way I never have the SURPISE flow of whatever fluid might leak. Great investment at only $49.

https://amzn.to/3vJb5ZM

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I would like parks to recognize adding a double valve like this after the main valves the same as a cap. I hate removing those caps because not only are they hard to turn but they may have a suprise on the other side...BTW, do they make a wrench or tool to assist in removing hoses or caps, I looked around but didnt see one in the camp store.

My kitchen gray tank valve (cable actuated) stopped closing completely while I was on a five week road trip. When I got home I dropped the coroplast (what a pain that is) and removed the valve. I spent a bit of time cleaning it with simple green and blowing air into it. A lot of sand/grit kept on coming out on the blade. You can see the grooves in the blade caused by the grit. The upper box needs a little lubricant so once done , I sprayed white grease (lithium grease) into the area where the blade recedes, ie in the open position. Then I exercised the valve until it opened and closed freely. Reinstalled and it worked like new and no leaks. Doing what I did is not everybody’s cup of tea. I like to understand how the valve stopped functioning as intended so I do what I do😂 Replacing with new may be preferred. I would expect all valves experience the same issue as I described whether they be manual or electric.

I have to lubricate the plunger on my dump valves every spring to get smooth movement. I don't take things apart - just spray on the plunger and run it back and forth.

the valve is the valve, and the way its activated wont make it seal any better.... when a piece of debris gets caught in the groove that prevents the blade from sliding fully closed, its going to leak...

the concept of the electric activators is great, but a more affordable solution is to remove the existing cables, and have new, better quality cables made for the purpose... they work easier and make a more solid connection, due to the stiffer cable components...
and I like knowing that I will never have an electrical failure that will prevent me from opening or closing the dump valves....

Trouble with the cable pulls is when installed they do NOT cut to length and just coil the extra cable up, tie wrap it in there and call it good. The cable can be cut to a shorter length and that could make the pull easier/smoother.