Fastners for Awning Assembly Stripped

TX_Clay

Well-known member
OK, I had to replace the non motorized side of my main awning again as I got stupid and didn't set it to drain the rain. (1st time due to wind) When I replaced it the first time, I noticed that some of the screws would start to tighten up and I could tell they where going to slip, so I stopped and left them as they were. This last Saturday, I removed the 5 screws/fasteners holding the assembly on and took the old one off, cleaned the surface, applied my sealant around the holes. When I went back to begin tightening them up, 3 of the 5 would not tighten, stripped. I was able to get one at the top and one at the bottom to hold. (I was 3 hours from home when it broke, so we left it and went home. Ordered the new part and went back the next weekend to replace it.) Brought it home, but before I left, someone mentioned that they had started using 1/4" pop rivets to fasten theirs on. If they ever needed to replace it, just drill the center out and let the inside part fall into the wall.
Made since to me, but I wanted to see if anyone else has used them to replace over torqued fasteners? Pros - Cons ?
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Can you use the next size diameter screw? Can a dowel be inserted and epoxied into place? That would be my first choice unless the fastener is going into a metal stud. Then I would use a screw insert. You can also use a metal blind insert rivet nut. I would not use stainless steal since it would be difficult to drill out encase you needed to in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...l&field-keywords=metal+blind+insert+rivet+nut.

They also make screw nut inserts for wood.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...ew+inserts&rh=n:16310091,k:wood+screw+inserts
 

Bones

Well-known member
Can you use the next size diameter screw? Can a dowel be inserted and epoxied into place? That would be my first choice unless the fastener is going into a metal stud. Then I would use a screw insert. You can also use a metal blind insert rivet nut. I would not use stainless steal since it would be difficult to drill out encase you needed to in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...l&field-keywords=metal+blind+insert+rivet+nut.

They also make screw nut inserts for wood.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...ew+inserts&rh=n:16310091,k:wood+screw+inserts

If you can use the nutzert that would give you the ability if per say the arm is broken again to remove it.
 

TX_Clay

Well-known member
Thanks for the suggestions. The nutzert looked good, till I realized that it has a lip on the outside which would not allow the base of the arm assembly to be flush against the camper wall. It feels like there is a backing plate when I probe the hole. Think I will go with the blind rivets and see how it does.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Thanks for the suggestions. The nutzert looked good, till I realized that it has a lip on the outside which would not allow the base of the arm assembly to be flush against the camper wall. It feels like there is a backing plate when I probe the hole. Think I will go with the blind rivets and see how it does.


The lip is not very thick at all. The fiberglass will give some when they are crimped in.
 

TX_Clay

Well-known member
I got my arm assembly installed over the weekend. Finally went with 1/4" blind rivets with 7/16 grip length. I did a test hole on a piece of wood to see how hard it would be to drill out if I needed to. Less than 2 minutes I had the head drilled off and was punching the center piece out. Time will tell if I made the right choice.
 
I too have the same issue with my 2021 Heartland Elkridge 5th wheel. The only thing that makes since is installing blind Stainless steel rivets. There is obviously quite of bit of strain on the idler cap to back out screws. Adding larger screws is not the answer.
 

Hollandt

Well-known member
I too have the same issue with my 2021 Heartland Elkridge 5th wheel. The only thing that makes since is installing blind Stainless steel rivets. There is obviously quite of bit of strain on the idler cap to back out screws. Adding larger screws is not the answer.
What is recommended are called Oscar rivets. Work well. Below is the Dometic version. Just make sure the awing is pulled up close to the camper before using.

Dometic 3311579.016 3/16" x 1" Awning Oscar Rivet 10 Pack Bagged
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
If you use SS rivets, they will be extremely hard to drill out later. They are harder then the material and wall they go into. When removing the rivet the drill will grip the center of the rivet and then cause it to spin. That will ruin the hole and awning assembly. Aluminum rivets are best and plenty strong.
 
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