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That's correct, never a leak.

If you do nothing the gooey stuff eventually dries up and starts flaking off...I guess UV rays. Mine still doesn't leak but I can see the black rubber membrane. I'm starting the process of Henry's coating. We'll see.....

Very cool job. How does it work?

I suspect that if you keep the old stuff you wouldn't have a problem selling on the used market....probably in demand. With the current leadership, I'm not sure I would even talk about it.

That will work up to a point. I guess I had tightened too much and finally had to replace that gasket. Not too bad of a job.

That doesn't look like the one I received many years ago for a replacement. As to if it's worth it....I say yes. I use mine for raising and lowering the front when hooking up, also nice to be sitting inside and retracting the awning when windy. Also, it's the only way to turn on the "scare"...

Sounds like you're figuring it out. I have the same model rig and think it is one of Heartland's better designs. I added an inverter for the fridge after pulling out that Nocold fridge and installing a Samsung RF18. I leave it on all of the time, except when I want to turn the fridge totally...

Thanks....will make a lot of folks feel a little better about not being a felon. I sure can't imagine a jury finding an individual at fault for trying to make their truck run better, and less trouble free.

I went and looked at that tuner. I guess it doesn't really do anything much regarding the DPF. If that thing is defective your're not going to really gain anything. You need a real tuner that deletes all of that crap, which you have to remove off of the truck, which makes you a felon. You...

When you did the delete I sure hope you removed all of that crap from the downpipe to the tail end. If you left the DPF in line, and no regen, it will plug up and cause real problems.

No wheel chocks? Although to tell the truth, I don't use them with the leveling system.....

What you need is a TDR.....lol, expensive. I used to have one that I used for TSCM sweeps but sold it when I retired. You might have to do some deep digging to find out where that wire goes. Good luck and have fun.

The USB jack probably doesn't use a switching type power supply. Switching power supplies are generally for stepping up a voltage, not down. I suspect a simple solid state type 5V regulator chip, which probably has a capacitor in it. You stated that you did not see a direct short but rather...

I've been doing this kind of stuff for 50 years....no engineering degree, life degree. I always use the "cause and effect" rule. So, it was working before you started messing with the lights in the slide, and it had a problem when you finished? Obviously you need to take apart what you did...

If I were worried I'd solder and tape those connections.

Try unplugging the microwave and see if the breaker will reset.

If you've been around here a while you would see that the crappy "china bombs" need to be removed immediately. My first replacement set were Sailuns...and they weathered out after 8 years, so I decided to go for another set from Walmart. The provider mistakenly sent me Transeagles and after...

Interesting....I recently got on the roof of my 2014 Big Country expecting to find the same gooey mess. Amazingly I found that most of the defective coating had disappeared. The roof is now getting down to the black EPDM. Now is the time to re-coat with another product....I'll probably go...

If the wires are small enough I would either try to re route or forget vinyl plank

If you're painting or putting up wallpaper on the vinyl covered walls, one piece of advice. Pre-prime with "Kills Adhesive" primer. This is not the regular Kills, and the big box suppliers don't carry it for some reason. Get it on-line at the big "A" site. This is the only primer I use for...

Probably not bad idea. Pretty pricey, but filtration is excellent. I've got over 150000 on my CP4 and it's going strong.

Very interesting....I hope the FASS system I have will help.

On the dually I run Bridgstone M700HD's...kind of pricey but excellent tires.

Isn't it mounted in the return air area, which is accessed from inside?

I try to stay off of the gummy roof. If necessary I use boards. Hasn't leaked a spot anywhere, it's just the colored coating getting gummy.

I put a drain pan under my Splendide and ran the drain hose into the main drain pipe. Never have smelled any kind of sewer gas so there must be a trap in the basement area. Not guaranteeing that your model would work that way.

I don't have that slide system, but on my hydraulic slides I can use the bolts underneath to make adjustments. Surely it's sliding out on some kind of rails? Do the rails have big bolts on them to adjust things with? If it's mounted on sliding rails maybe you can shim it up somehow. Sorry...

If it's been raining.....tighten the bolts a little, as someone else recommended. I'd start there first.

I've heard of people wedging a large piece of Styrofoam between the top of the fridge and bottom of the ceiling in the enclosure. I don't think they're going to slide straight out, but maybe tip.

Try resetting the thermostat...that works for me. There is a procedure in the book.

Probably the best solution in the end would be to get rid of all of the splitters and try to make homeruns from each area you might put the receiver and label them. No splitters allowed on the SAT in to Directv receiver.

The wall material is vinyl covered wood...I think. I imagine the glue on the command hooks is somehow reacting with the vinyl and causing it to come loose. When I applied some wallpaper to the walls I had to prime them first because they were vinyl. The best primer was Kilz Adhesive, not...

I have the Tork lift steps installed and they work great. I don't know why OEM don't install them originally.

You might look to raise the slide on the side it's rubbing by using the adjustment screw on that side. I raised my slightly rubbing side and it fixed the problem. I did re-coat the rubbed area with epoxy.

Aren't those axles installed with a slight bow....going up in the middle?

I had the heater problem on a Chevy. Of course the outdoor temperature was no where near freezing. I suspect the ECM checks continuity of the heater and if it sees an open it signals the code. The problem is that even if it's 100 degrees out, and the heater fails to show continuity, you will...

Neither....call Dicor directly.

Route the new water line alongside the existing cables for the slide into the belly area with this. https://www.amazon.com/Shark-Industrial-Stainless-Braided-Connection/dp/B083Y6FJD6/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=1%2F4%22+stainless+steel+covered+water+line&qid=1608039658&sr=8-2

That's interesting about the vent. I noticed that the vent for the burner vented straight up into the area above the fridge. This seems counter to common sense because I was trying to get the heat out of that area with fans. I thought about putting some kind of 90 degree piece on it and...

You're going down the same road I did. I bought 5 12dc muffin fans and installed three at top vent and two at the bottom vent. I left them running all of the time and they were very quiet from the inside of the rig. It helped a little, but if your fridge is in a slide then, unfortunately, the...