Hot Water Presure - LOW

Ratowns

Member
I have a 2009 PineHurst and it's just past the 1 year mark in age. My hot water pressure has went south. I have great cold water pressure but the hot water pressure is very low. What's your take on this problem?? I have used a water filter from day 1 which I have changed out on a regular basis. I do have HOT water but like I said - LOW pressure on the hot side.
I appreciate your thoughts.
BTW we are full timers...
Ron
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
Have you changed the anode in the water heater lately? Just a thought. It should be changed at least once a year.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
A couple things come to mind here. Have you checked the bypass valve to be sure it is all the way in the normal use position. It's possible that you have a kinked hot water line from the heater, but not likely. And on Jims train of thought, have you flushed the water heater when checking or changing the anode rod.
Let us know what the final cure turns out to be.

Peace
Dave
 

Ratowns

Member
Problem solved

Problem solved. RVIA certified mechanic fixed the problem in about 10 minutes. The valve (backflow) was sticking mostly shut which restricted the flow. Unfortunatly it cost me about $70 to find that out. So donations will be accepted.. LOL :p
Hope this helps someone out in case you have the same problem.
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
I had to replace the check valve as well. mine was stuck open, so I could not winterize the system when we left on vacation in March. I installed a brass ball valve, so now I am sure that it is open or closed, and it flows better now.
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
It is located on the output of the water heater. it is a 1/2" NPT fitting and being plastic they strip and break easily.
 

Duramax1

Well-known member
Thank you for the information. I now realize that I was confused and thought that the check valve was something different from the bypass valve.
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
Thank you for the information. I now realize that I was confused and thought that the check valve was something different from the bypass valve.

The check valve is different than the bypass valve, if I am understanding your terminology correctly. The check valve is on the top back of the water heater and keep fluid from flowing back into the heater. The bypass valve will control whether or not fluid is allowed into the the heater input at the bottom of the heater, and can redirect fluid to the hot water system without passing through the heater.

My check valve stuck open, so when I would winterize, antifreeze flowed into the output of the heater and began draining out since the plug/anode rod was out: otherwise I would have just filled the heater with antifreeze.
 

kakampers

Past Heartland Ambassador
Well, our luck finally ran out! Not complaining though...two years of constant use and no problems with leaks...until today! Crap happens!

Went to get something from cargo bay on roadside...noticed large amount of water in center of cargo floor. Emptied bay, removed panels and noticed water had been leaking, apparently from bottom of water heater at the inlet. Looked rusty and platform it sits on was wet. Went to investigate, and while moving the water lines attached at back of water heater...it suddenly started spraying water from top connection where the check valve is installed, which is directly above where we first saw water.

We realized that the plastic check valve was leaking...but here's the BIG problem...DH went to remove the check valve...it snapped off, leaving half of it stuck in the threads of the water heater...UUGGHHH!!:mad:

So now he's out trying to find a replacement valve, hopefully metal...and an easy out to try and remove the rest of the valve without damaging the threads...

What's the point of this post...to let everyone know...if you need to replace that check valve...BE VERY CAREFUL!:eek:
 

XXLRUNR

Member
My check valve broke off as well. I also had a portion of the check valve stuck in the threads of the water heater. There was no easy out, I used a small propane torch to melt the plastic piece out of the water heater (after I drained it). There is no plumbing harnessing, I think the constant up and down of a traveling coach eventually will break this valve through the movement and weight of the water lines. I highly recommend everyone replace the plastic check valve with a brass valve. This is a 10 minute job if you do it before it breaks. I have sprung several leaks always at the junction points on many of the hoses behind the cargo bay. There is some sort of factory clamp used to attach the lines to various "L" and "T" line fittings. Once they are loose, you will leak and there is no way to make these fastening bands tighter. I re-plumbed most of the rats nest of blue and red hoses and have not had a leak since. If you have not looked behind your cargo bay wall yet, now would be a good time. As 2010Augusta stated in a previous post, "there is a lot of extra storage space back there". If you look at the top shelf outside, just above the batteries you will see a storage compartment that extends four feet back into the rig. If you remove this compartment you get a ton more space and can actually get in there and do some work. I also had to replace my step down transformer located in the same general area. When the voltage converter goes out, you lose all your DC power once your batteries draw down.
 
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