And so it begins

tgrshk19

tgrshk19

Member
Keep in mind when done, when hooked to the truck and if you turn the flood lights on from inside the garage your truck's backup lights will come on. No big deal - how often you going to do that?

It was well worth the effort though.
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I believe you could have put in a diode to prevent this.
 
porthole

porthole

Retired
tgrshk19 said:
I believe you could have put in a diode to prevent this.
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Yes, a diode would have made it a non issue. But, there also would have been the resulting 6 tenths of a volt drop through the diode.

My lights are incandescent bulbs, so every tenth helps with light output. If they were LED’s the voltage drop might be a non issue.

With Fords the circuits in the 7-way are all controlled with relays, so there is the possibility the back up light circuit is not complete with the key off. So the only time it might pop up is with the truck running and manually turning the lights on.

The lights really help at night and is worth the effort if you have them on your Cyclone.
 
tgrshk19

tgrshk19

Member
porthole said:
Yes, a diode would have made it a non issue. But, there also would have been the resulting 6 tenths of a volt drop through the diode.

My lights are incandescent bulbs, so every tenth helps with light output. If they were LED’s the voltage drop might be a non issue.

With Fords the circuits in the 7-way are all controlled with relays, so there is the possibility the back up light circuit is not complete with the key off. So the only time it might pop up is with the truck running and manually turning the lights on.

The lights really help at night and is worth the effort if you have them on your Cyclone.
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Ok that makes some sense I was trying to figure out a way so they didn't feed back either way. I suppose you could use some type of relay but the way you describe probably don't need it.
 
porthole

porthole

Retired
tgrshk19 said:
Ok that makes some sense I was trying to figure out a way so they didn't feed back either way. I suppose you could use some type of relay but the way you describe probably don't need it.
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The relay is a good idea.
That would eliminate the feedback and allow for lighter gauge wire. Although with the run from the pinbox to the rear lights I would probably still use a larger gauge wire then the minimun required.
I rather run the wire once.
 
tgrshk19

tgrshk19

Member
porthole said:
The relay is a good idea.
That would eliminate the feedback and allow for lighter gauge wire. Although with the run from the pinbox to the rear lights I would probably still use a larger gauge wire then the minimun required.
I rather run the wire once.
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I do have to agree with you on that point
I do have another question for you though on your winch what gauge wire did you run and did you run it all the way from the battery boxes? interested in this idea as I am thinking about building/ designing something to pull the bikes up on their wheel chocks rather than riding up. especially when everything is wet and trying to pack up to get going. I have gotten half way up ramp before and started spinning to have to slide back down put throw rug on to get traction to get up ramp..... make it but it sux.
 
porthole

porthole

Retired
tgrshk19 said:
I do have to agree with you on that point
I do have another question for you though on your winch what gauge wire did you run and did you run it all the way from the battery boxes? interested in this idea as I am thinking about building/ designing something to pull the bikes up on their wheel chocks rather than riding up. especially when everything is wet and trying to pack up to get going. I have gotten half way up ramp before and started spinning to have to slide back down put throw rug on to get traction to get up ramp..... make it but it sux.
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10 gauge marine grade wire, from the batteries to the winch.

After the first time I had a slippery slope to deal with I made things a little easier to be able to pull the bike up when things were wet.

https://heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=134986&viewfull=1#post134986
 
R

Rangles

Member
I also am having a problem with the power cutting out when using the six point leveling as well as the slides .
My rig is only nine months old and really don't want to spend any money on repairs at this early juncture, it should still be covered under the manufacturers warranty right , I need to be back in the camper in about two weeks , anyone know of a good and fast repair spot in Arkansas???

Thanks in advance Cody
 
Bones

Bones

Well-known member
Rangles said:
I also am having a problem with the power cutting out when using the six point leveling as well as the slides .
My rig is only nine months old and really don't want to spend any money on repairs at this early juncture, it should still be covered under the manufacturers warranty right , I need to be back in the camper in about two weeks , anyone know of a good and fast repair spot in Arkansas???

Thanks in advance Cody
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Make sure you check all the connections to the Pump motor. If you can do this yourself you may be a lot happier. One recommendation is to increase the fuse size and get a resetting one.
 
R

Rangles

Member
Bones said:
Make sure you check all the connections to the Pump motor. If you can do this yourself you may be a lot happier. One recommendation is to increase the fuse size and get a resetting one.
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Thanks Bones , I will try messing with it a little, I wonder if I replace the fuse will it still be covered under the warranty
 
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danemayer

danemayer

Well-known member
Rangles said:
I also am having a problem with the power cutting out when using the six point leveling as well as the slides .
My rig is only nine months old and really don't want to spend any money on repairs at this early juncture, it should still be covered under the manufacturers warranty right , I need to be back in the camper in about two weeks , anyone know of a good and fast repair spot in Arkansas???

Thanks in advance Cody
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You may find it way less expensive and way less time consuming to fix it yourself. Take a look at our Hydraulic Slide Starts and Stops user guide.
 
F

Flooringit

Well-known member
jesstalkn said:
I love my B&W Companion puck hitch and my Trailair FlexAir combo. I think it's the perfect setup. Hitch is still small enough in the bed of the truck, it comes apart and can be removed in minutes by myself, The latching mechanism works perfectly, the shock on the side of the hitch holds the head in place when not towing and when hitching, my T-REX bar put it "over the top" for convenience.
I could not be happier with my decision to move from the Reese to the B&W Companion



Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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I have the Reese and hate it. I’m a very strong person and it sucks to move by myself. The locking system sucks. Has these little tiny pins to hold handles and they break and bend super easy. The head won’t stay in place while to back up. If you leave it in truck it makes noise in turns cause no shock to hold it. I wish I had the companion

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Bones

Bones

Well-known member
Flooringit said:
I have the Reese and hate it. I’m a very strong person and it sucks to move by myself. The locking system sucks. Has these little tiny pins to hold handles and they break and bend super easy. The head won’t stay in place while to back up. If you leave it in truck it makes noise in turns cause no shock to hold it. I wish I had the companion

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Which Reese do you have?
 
F

Flooringit

Well-known member
I’m watching for a companion now. Seen one for a good deal but it was a long drive. If a Pin breaks on the Reese for the puck locks your in trouble. I really lucked out was able to get it to turn and out.
 
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