water heater check valve

hi, we have a 3055. do i have to take out the 1/2 inch pipe on the output port of the hot water heater to repair/replace the check valve? thanks, tom

Hi twowheelers,

I moved your question to the Bighorn plumbing section, I think you will get quicker answers from our members that have done the replacement.

Jim M

Tom, yes, the check valve is the 1/2" x about 3" plastic outlet on the water heater. It can be a pain to remove if it breaks, so be careful when removing it. I replaced our with a brass ball valve because the check valves corrode/break so easy.

Ok mechanical whizzes. Is this what they call the anode rod that is sacrificial? I was told to check that baby out every 6 months. Is the check valve a different part and what is its purpose? And finally is it something to be changed periodically and how would you know?

Larryheadhunter said:

Ok mechanical whizzes. Is this what they call the anode rod that is sacrificial? I was told to check that baby out every 6 months. Is the check valve a different part and what is its purpose? And finally is it something to be changed periodically and how would you know?

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Larry,

The Suburban water heater has an Anode Rod. It is sacrificial. Check it at least twice a year by removing it using a 1-1/16" socket. Replace it if 75% or more of it's original mass is gone (typically once a year depending on water quality). Be sure to wrap the threads with Teflon tape each time the rod is put back into the tank.

There is a check valve and a pressure relief valve. The check valve is at the back of the water heater. It is there to allow water to flow out of the water heater and not allow water to come back into the water heater from the RV's hot water lines.

The pressure relief valve is located on the outside of the water heater near the top. As its name implies, it is designed to relieve (blow) pressure in the hot water tank if it climbs higher than the design limit. You may also use that valve to manually drain a small amount of water of of the tank and thereby relieve the pressure. This can be handy prior to removing the Anode Rod. ALWAYS have the water heater OFF and the pressure relieved before removing the Anode Rod. I nearly shot a rod into my neighbors RV in 2005 when I was a rookie by not relieving the pressure. That said, I prefer to relieve the pressure by opening a hot water faucet rather than using the pressure relief valve.

Jim

2010augusta said:

Tom, yes, the check valve is the 1/2" x about 3" plastic outlet on the water heater. It can be a pain to remove if it breaks, so be careful when removing it. I replaced our with a brass ball valve because the check valves corrode/break so easy.

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hi, thanks. i put in the brass ball valve and everything is fine. thanks again, tom

2010augusta said:

Tom, yes, the check valve is the 1/2" x about 3" plastic outlet on the water heater. It can be a pain to remove if it breaks, so be careful when removing it. I replaced our with a brass ball valve because the check valves corrode/break so easy.

Click to expand...

2010augusta,

what is a brass ball valve ?? do you have a pic ?? or part # ?? you probably have the same w/h I have suburban 12Gallon. Thanks

A brass ball valve is just a regular 1/4 turn shut off valve available at most hardware and plumbing stores.

Bobby A said:

2010augusta,

what is a brass ball valve ?? do you have a pic ?? or part # ?? you probably have the same w/h I have suburban 12Gallon. Thanks

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hi, i got a valve and fittings from lowes. the number on the valve is 79440 and the brass nipples are 24841 (you need 2 of these). i will send a pic of the completed job if you need it. tom (twowheelers)

Brass Check Valve

Thinking that the engineers or water quality regulations had some reason for a check valve instead of a manual ball valve, I looked up a BRASS 1/2 inch check valve. I will install this in place of the plastic one. Here is the link:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/5739792

2010augusta said:

Tom, yes, the check valve is the 1/2" x about 3" plastic outlet on the water heater. It can be a pain to remove if it breaks, so be careful when removing it. I replaced our with a brass ball valve because the check valves corrode/break so easy.

Click to expand...

Hey Alan, I know we spoke a little about this in the past, but how can you install a ball valve in place of the check valve when it's in the back of the water heater? how do you get at it? Or when you re-worked your UDC did you replum it so you could activate it from the front? Also, is the only purpose for the hot water heater check valve to prevent anti-freeze from getting in to the tank??

Tommy

Hey Tom,
To get to the rear of the water heater you have to remove the partition wall in the basement.

Thanks Alan and Tom for the pics and info, sorry it took me a while to get back to ya, had some probs on the road, long story !! I'll post my problems soon.
Thanks again,
Bobby A

Re: Brass Check Valve

wdk450 said:

Thinking that the engineers or water quality regulations had some reason for a check valve instead of a manual ball valve, I looked up a BRASS 1/2 inch check valve. I will install this in place of the plastic one. Here is the link:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/5739792

Click to expand...

ineed to replace my check valve didyou find this valve a better option

Thanks David