Low Point Drain 3610RE

We don't get a lot of freezing weather in south Mississippi, but usually get a few sub 20 degree days every winter. This will be the first winter with the new 2010 3610RE bighorn and the lack of low point drains concerns me some. With the mild weather we plan to make a few short camping weekends over the winter months. As a result I don't plan on pumping the anti-freeze through the plumbing. Our previous Montana had the drains and I used an adapter and air tank and blew out the water and never had any issues next spring. I have been considering installing low point drains on the Bighorn and wonder if anyone has undertaken this project - problems/advise. Thanks for any input.

Bill, you can buy an air fitting at wally-world for about $1.50. Screw it into your water hose fitting...open all your fausets. Blow some air through it and voila. There should be a fresh water tank drain on the off door side coming through the underbelly. My 2cts. Bob P.S. love your quote about "ask the indians."

I have been winterizing with air for the last 15 Years. I drain the Hot water tank and pump the air in the system with all system as if water was being pumped in with the air fitting and fill the h/w tank. Than I go to each tap and let the water out. Then I fill the H/W tank full of air again and go to each tap and blow air out. Only one tap open at a time. Never failed me, I think just using the adapter the air flow would be to small to realy blow the water out. Did you see the piping in the h/w tank area, no way I will use the pink stuff and garanty a good wintering. I have an air bladder tank that I will install on the discharge side of the 12v pump. This will allow the pump to flow the water more steadily.

//heartlandowners.org/image.php?u=6622&dateline=1252330114 caissiel

What size of an air bladder tank do you have in your rig?

I found a used tank with a great blader. The tank is all plastic and is 8" Dia by 18" long. When the bladder goes I will just install it with inlet down and let it fill with air. I have lots of room behind the access panel. It's an old reverse osmossis storage tank. Its realy light and has an air fitting on the opposite end of the pipe connection and valve. paid $3.00.

Caissiel,
That's an interesting method of using the WH under pressure to force the water out of the pipes. I was concerned that I would not be able to blow the water out going uphill with no low point drain. It was always easy to do with a portable air tank on the Montana. Your method seems better. I'll give it a try.

Bob (Bob & Patty)
I took a sign with this quote on it April 15 to the Tea Party in Ruidoso, NM. While sitting in my lawn chair, a tall man came up and looked at the sign for several seconds. With out saying a word he just looked at me, smiled and walked away. Later found out he was a full blooded Apache.

When you use the air from outside method on the water connection, do you know if the water regulator will be good with air, in other words, I would like to bring an air hose with 130PSI and run it through that water regulator to keep the pressure down. I have a regulator for the air tank, but it limits the air flow too much.

any thoughts?

MN

marknewbill said:

When you use the air from outside method on the water connection, do you know if the water regulator will be good with air, in other words, I would like to bring an air hose with 130PSI and run it through that water regulator to keep the pressure down. I have a regulator for the air tank, but it limits the air flow too much.

any thoughts?

MN

Click to expand...

I have an inexpensive regulator that attaches to the air hose. I wouldn't trust the water pressure regulator to handle air.

caissiel said:

I have been winterizing with air for the last 15 Years. I drain the Hot water tank and pump the air in the system with all system as if water was being pumped in with the air fitting and fill the h/w tank. Than I go to each tap and let the water out. Then I fill the H/W tank full of air again and go to each tap and blow air out. Only one tap open at a time. Never failed me, I think just using the adapter the air flow would be to small to realy blow the water out. Did you see the piping in the h/w tank area, no way I will use the pink stuff and garanty a good wintering. I have an air bladder tank that I will install on the discharge side of the 12v pump. This will allow the pump to flow the water more steadily.

Click to expand...

I also found this method last week by accident. I only was interested in pressure testing for a leak I fixed and didn't want to un-winterize so I just aired up the system. then when i opened the faucet, out came the antifreeze. I put a jug under it and caught about 3/4 of a gallon, almost every bit I put in, all coming from the air in the hot water tank pushing it all back out, which I had in the circuit to also look for any leaks (not bypassed).

so I may consider this as my new go to method, plus its slow to pressure up and you have time to stop the flow of air if you dont have something correct about your incoming air pressure. Also the water heater has a pressure valve. not sure if the pipes will go or if the pressure valve will go as i have not read the pressure rating, but I am sure it is well over 40psi though, but it is something.

FYI this thread is 11 years old.

Peace
Dave

cookie said:

FYI this thread is 11 years old.

Peace
Dave

Click to expand...

Ok. I suppose waiting another 10 years for the answer is unrealistic 😂