Step-by-Step Bighorn Plumbing Winterization

Jim-n-Leslie

Jim-n-Leslie

Active Member
Like many others, I am quite disappointed in the quality of guidance provided in the owner's manual for my Bighorn. Using my 2009 Bighorn 3385RL as the basis for this discussion and crawling through the many posts addressing the need for a step-by-step plumbing winterization guide across the Heartland forums, I put together the attached checklist. I added line numbers down the left and bullitized each entry so it can be used to check off steps as they are effected. I am interested in anyone providing feedback based upon their personal lessons learned (positive or negative) so I can finalize this and post it as a finished checklist here in the forums. Please provide the line numbers where changes are recommended. If the order of any steps needs to be changed, let me know and I will fix it. If there is a place in the forums where owner checklists are posted and I missed it, let me know. Thanks in advance for any feedback I receive. When done, I will go out and winterize my RV for the first time before the first freeze this winter.
Jim
 

Attachments

  • Bighorn RV Plumbing Winterizing & De-Winterizing Steps (draft).pdf
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P

palebluedot

Active Member
I don't know about previous years, but our 2010 3610RE has a detailed set of step-by-step instructions attached to the inside of the docking station door.
 
jimtoo

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi Jim,

Your check list for winterizing is very good. I do not need to to do it myself, so I have never actually even thought much about it. But when you get it completed, with Jim B's OK, we will post it in the HOOT section, Heartland Owners Online Tools. I know some of the folks from up North may have some more to add also.

I think at line 19-20 you need to add that on a lot of the models you will need to remove panel inside basement near UDC or where ever is needed to get access behind the water heater to have access to bypass valves. Not all units have bypass valves in the UDC.

Thanks for your interest.

Jim M
 
CrazyScotsman

CrazyScotsman

Well-known member
$45 and it's done by the dealer, that way I don't have to mess with the combo washer, and if not done properly I can't blame myself :) :) :)
 
Jim-n-Leslie

Jim-n-Leslie

Active Member
Bill (PaleBlueDot) -
Unfortunately, it appears that it may be a new practice in 2010 if you have such posted inside your docking station. Looks like the customer was heard!
Jim
 
Jim-n-Leslie

Jim-n-Leslie

Active Member
Boca_Shuffles said:
Please add a step to winterize the washer line in the closet, even if you don't have a washer connected.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I added guidance that states, " Ensure the washer lines in the closet are included, even if a washer is not connected" after line 28 in the winterizing steps as well as after line 87 in the de-winterizing steps.
Jim [FONT=&quot][/FONT]
 
Gaffer

Gaffer

Well-known member
water inlet re-set

I winterized my 2010 BH 3055 yesterday (first time). The instructions on the door said to open the low point drains. The only drain line I could find was for the fresh water tank. I blew the lines out. Cycled the ice maker a few times to clear the solenoid of water and put some antifreeeze down the drains to protect the traps. Okay so far but when I pressed the little button on the water inlet connection to get the water out of it, I can't seem to get the little sucker to re-seat. Tried pressurizing it a couple of more times. No luck. When I sucked a little RV antifreeze through the pump and through the outside shower (to make sure there was no water left in the pump) I got some out the water inlet. I had my compressor regulator set to about 25 psi. Will more pressure cause it to re-seat, or do I need to live with it and make a cap for the inlet when using the pump?
 
T

traveler44

Well-known member
winterizing the bighorn

This article got me to thinking. I am going to add a small piece of hose onto the end of my fresh water drain with a screen in the end of it to keep bugs out, like the one on the end of the fridge drain. That way I can leave the valve open to prevent freezing and just close the valve to refill. I've only winterized my B.H. once, but I had a SOB trailer before and I thought all you had to do to dewinterize was to leave the waterheater bypassed untill you flush all of the antifreeze out of the waterlines and then to make sure you refill the water heater before you fire it up. But then we drink bottled water alot. --Tom
 
airedale

airedale

Active Member
jbeletti said:
It does, though I have never added anti-freeze directly to it.

Jim
Click to expand...

tnks jim.......though do not have a washer/dryer hooked up and the factory winterized the unit before shipping to the dealer [who then dewinterized it for my trip home, and probably pdi] , while winterizing it at home i made sure there was antifreeze coming out of the taps and added a couple of cups to the drain......what the heck.....4 bucks a gallon.....used 2 and a half........cheers
 
Jim-n-Leslie

Jim-n-Leslie

Active Member
Time to Dewinterize

Gaffer said:
I winterized my 2010 BH 3055 yesterday (first time). The instructions on the door said to open the low point drains. The only drain line I could find was for the fresh water tank. I blew the lines out. Cycled the ice maker a few times to clear the solenoid of water and put some antifreeeze down the drains to protect the traps. Okay so far but when I pressed the little button on the water inlet connection to get the water out of it, I can't seem to get the little sucker to re-seat. Tried pressurizing it a couple of more times. No luck. When I sucked a little RV antifreeze through the pump and through the outside shower (to make sure there was no water left in the pump) I got some out the water inlet. I had my compressor regulator set to about 25 psi. Will more pressure cause it to re-seat, or do I need to live with it and make a cap for the inlet when using the pump?
Click to expand...

I have had issues with those little buttons before, but was successful in getting them to eventually re-seat bu fiddling with them in the inlet. I am unsure if more pressure might do the trick, but it may. I put them in the same category as the door locks (which I consider to be cheap and frustrating to use if I do not squirt a little WD-40 or graphite in them periodically). I'm heading out the door to give my checklist a go, since we were just notified by the Nat'l Weather Service that we are under a Winter Weather Advisory for the next 12 hours. I suppose in VA, that means it will be a chilly rain in the low 40's/upper 30's :rolleyes:

After I finish winterizing, I will make any final adjustments to the checklist, then post it here. Thanks to everyone who contributed. I tried to make this based primarily upon my 2009 BH. I'll throw a cautionary disclaimer at the bottom, since evidently not everyone has low point drains, etc. :angel:

Thanks!
Jim
 
Jim-n-Leslie

Jim-n-Leslie

Active Member
Bighorn RV Plumbing Winterizing & De-Winterizing Steps

After much review and analysis, and having gone through the listed winterizing steps, I am posting the finalized checklist. I have not wlaked through the de-winterizing steps yet, so if there are any additional comments and after I de-winterize in the Spring, I will update only if necessary. Happy Camping, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year to all!
Jim & Leslie :cool:
 

Attachments

  • Bighorn RV Plumbing Winterizing & De-Winterizing Steps.pdf
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