Winterizing a Greystone

jheitman

Well-known member
I've been reading in the Sundance forum that the winterizing hose is behind the rear side wall of the basement, behind the Universal Docking Center (UDC). I have not attempted to remove this panel yet to see for myself, but if it is there, I'd like to bring it out. Can I bring out this hose into the basement area, coil it up and attach to the wall so that I don't have to climb in there and dissemble the panel each time I winterize/dewinterize?

As I understand it the hose has one end free and the other end attached through a valve to the pump manifold. I was thinking of leaving the existing valve on the pump open and adding another valve in line with my hose extension within the basement.
The ultimate would be to have a valve and hose in the UDC but that isn't the case in the 2011 32RE, so I'm thinking of giving up a little basement, pretty small already, to make this operation a little easier. Will this work?

I can already get to the water heater bypass pretty easy under the kitchen sink.

How do I keep from getting drenched when I remove the anode rod to drain the tank?

Also, should I leave the anode rod and plug out when winterized? If so, shouldn't I put something in the plug hole to keep creeping criters out?
 

Duramax1

Well-known member
Re Winterizing Hose

The winterizing hose is accesible by removing four screws and removing the panel.

This is somewhat tedious even though you only do it twice a year.

The solution: purchase some velcro and reattach the panel with velcro rather than screws.

It is just that easy.
 

jheitman

Well-known member
Great Idea Thanks, Duramax1.

Just to refresh, the panel to the water pump, valves and hose we need to winterize, are located behind a cloth covered panel just behind the UDC.

I was able to get the original panel screws out easily, but I could not get them back in, I just couldn't find the original holes behind the cloth material. The screws are long and using them to winterize and dewinterize would be very frustrating and a pain in my back.

So, I tried something like Duramax1 suggested. I wasn't sure the velcro would stick very long to the felt like material on the wall. So, I took three small wood blocks, (1/4" x 1" x 3" ) and glued them up against three sides of the panel (3" block side against the panel, bottom and both sides) and screwed them in with small wood screws. Then I attached "butterfly" shaped rotating retaining clips by screwing them into the wood blocks I attached previously. Then I removed the four black head screws originally holding the panel to the wall.

Now to remove the panel, just finger turn the three clips and pull off the panel, reverse to install.

I couldn't find a good way to get the valves and hose outside the pump area, so this easy panel removal will have to be my solution, unless someone else can think up something better.

Thanks,


jim
 
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FennerJ

Heartland Dealer Service
A better idea if you do not want to remove the panel would be to buy an inexpensive access door and install onto the panel to give you quick access.
 
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jheitman

Well-known member
You could drill a hole in the panel and run the hose out. Then coil it up with your own valve on it.

Hey, thanks. Its good to hear from a Factory rep.

However, I thought there were two lines on the suction port to the pump. One through a valve to the winterizing hose and one through a valve to the fresh water tank. Don't I have to close the one to the tank and open the one to the hose, to winterize?

I could permanently open the one to the hose and then add another further down the hose and bring both outside the panel, I think that is your suggestion. However, how do I close the valve to the tank, I can't move that outside too, can I?

Thanks again,
Jim & Marilynn Heitman - Owners Club # 1756
2010 Chevy Silverado, Ext Cab, 4x4, 6.0 L Vortec
2011 Greystone 32RE
Reese Select Plus 20k Slider Hitch
 

bighorn3370

Well-known member
Jheitman, I did some reworking of the plumbing behind the UDC. What I did was extend the hose from the freshwater tank to right behind the UDC. I the hooked up the valve for the RV antifreeze to be pumped in. Then I ran the water line back to the pump. I did this so that when I need to winterize the BH, I will not need to climb into the basement. I now can reach the water heater bypass and the hose for the RV antifreeze from just outside of the BH. I'm not sure on the Greystones but on the BH, I have three screws that go throught the UDC to hold the panel shut. I just unscrew them and swing out the panel about 20" to acess everything. This works for me. Ernie
 

jheitman

Well-known member
Jheitman, I did some reworking of the plumbing behind the UDC. What I did was extend the hose from the freshwater tank to right behind the UDC. I the hooked up the valve for the RV antifreeze to be pumped in. Then I ran the water line back to the pump. I did this so that when I need to winterize the BH, I will not need to climb into the basement. I now can reach the water heater bypass and the hose for the RV antifreeze from just outside of the BH. I'm not sure on the Greystones but on the BH, I have three screws that go throught the UDC to hold the panel shut. I just unscrew them and swing out the panel about 20" to acess everything. This works for me. Ernie

That sounds pretty good, but I don't think the Greystone UDC swings out like that. Stuff is pretty crammed everywhere. I think I have two valves, one to open the winterize line to the pump and one to open the fresh water tank to the pump, One needs to be open and one closed all the time. I'd have to move both. I have put a simple to remove access cover, but I still have to crawl in on my belly to get at stuff. Must look strange with a big butt and leggs hanging out of the coach.

Did you move two valves?
 
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bighorn3370

Well-known member
Yes, I moved two valves. Here are some pictures, before and after. The bulkhead runs at angle from the UDC back to the center of the basement storage. I hope this helps you out. If you have any questions, you can pm me. Ernie



101_2460.jpg101_2377.jpg 101_2458.jpg
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jheitman

Well-known member
Yes, I moved two valves. Here are some pictures, before and after. The bulkhead runs at angle from the UDC back to the center of the basement storage. I hope this helps you out. If you have any questions, you can pm me. Ernie



View attachment 9909View attachment 9910 View attachment 9911
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Wow, You really have some room in that rig.
Here are some pictures and descriptions of my unit.
Attached is a pdf file showing the Greystone access for winterizing.
 

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