Tow Vehicle question

bighorn3370

Well-known member
Bachj123, I would think you would not have a problem. We need to know more about the truck. Is it 1500, 2500, or 3500? Also, what engine and gearing in the real axle does the truck have? Ernie
 

RollingHome

Well-known member
Check the owners manual or stop in a dealers. It doesn't matter what it can pull, what matters is what the maker says it can pull. My 3/4 ton Chebbie pulled my trailer fine - BUT - the maker (GM) said it was a No, No. The Police go by the maker not me... Good Luck.
 

bachj123

Member
I would never have thought about police! Just one more thing to think about but I am so thankful to everyone for all the infomation. Nothing like finding out how much you don't know but we will learn.
 

bachj123

Member
Well we got our NC home and the 1500 did okay but there was a strain on the engine. Hubbie's on the net looking for a 2500.
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
Well we got our NC home and the 1500 did okay but there was a strain on the engine. Hubbie's on the net looking for a 2500.

Why not go for a 3500 not hardly any difference in price and you will be set for you upgrade down the road.
 

Bighurt

Well-known member
Why not go for a 3500 not hardly any difference in price and you will be set for you upgrade down the road.

I agree people always seam to think they are saving buy purchasing the 2500 or 250 vs the 3500 or 350.

When I had my F350 built, I priced out both. The difference was less than 5K, for a 53K truck that wasn't much. Considering the payload difference is significant. Now I was comparing SRW to SRW, I'm not sure the difference between a 3/4 ton SRW and a 1 ton DRW as we didn't want a dually

Another thing to consider is not buying off the lot. I purchased my F350 from the dealer custom ordered which meant the price was set before order, no dealer fluff or haggling. MSRP for the build with discounts rebates etc was 53K. I paid 41K, my friend just bought an F150 for 40K off the lot.

I'm not saying that it will always work out better, but if you find one on the lot that's close to what you want, ask the dealer to run a build, and make them run a build and price it out. You might be surprised, many times the reason is with the order they have no overhead, no lot storage, no test drives eating up fuel, no potential non sales. Truck shows up you pick it up, they are out nothing... Dodge is different however when I bought the Ford dealer showed me the build invoice and said we want $500, I agreed and they ordered the truck...when confirmation came back the price quoted was lower than actual cost, dealer only made a $136.

Of course aftermarket add on's, sealer, undercoat, etc. add to the dealers pocket but I was very satisfied. I actually priced out a build from more than one dealer and went with the one who was lowest.
 

TimDyck

Member
I picked up my Chevy 3500 for less than a 2500 with the same options. I bought it midsummer when the new model lines were coming out soon and I was looking for a diesel extended cab with a full size box. Most of the customers in the 3500 market are either contractors who want a 4 door with the full size box or people who want a shorter box so the extended cab with the full size box was not moving so they let me have it for less than the 2500 I was previously dealing on. Since I run my own company the truck is used to pull a bobcat or small excavator on a trailer and now will be used to pull the camper trailer we just bought. So check into the 3500s and see what’s out there since they have a higher GVW and will generally pull better than a smaller truck. Also look at the diesels, I have been pulling equipment trailers for many years and I have tried several different truck/engine combos and I find that for pulling a diesel will cost less over the long term.
 
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