Cheap Heat - RV Comfort Systems

lwmcguir

Well-known member
65000 would put them at about 71% efficient so any calculations you run you need to factor the efficiency in. Most of the electric units are going to be near 100% with the heat pumps getting 200% or better as long as you are above their minimum temp. You fall back to the strip heaters then.

Heat pumps are really the way to go for long term heating in extended stay Coaches.
 

CheapHeat

HOC Vendor Partner
Point 1
They don't put strip heaters in RV roof top HeaT Pumps and if they did they would only be limited to 1500 watts because of the voltage and wire supplied to the rooftop Heat Pump.
Point 2
With a roof top heat pump your trying to heat from the ceiling and all of the heat stays up there (I have one and that's what happens. Also as the temp decreases so does its capacity and when it gets to 45 degrees its output is only about 6000 btu's with a 100% run cycle trying to keep up. With this guys system you still have 17,500 btu's an hour at temp down below freezing AND your heating from the floor and heating your underfloor were all of the freezing problems happen.
Point 3
I am willing to bet when you factor in the ceiling against underfloor and the reduced run times of this system operating cost across the board is even cheaper than the over rated RV roof top Heat Pump. (Home systems are much different, I have a heat pump in my home and work on them for a living).
HVAC_TECH
 

CheapHeat

HOC Vendor Partner
RV Furnaces ARE NOT 71% efficient and never have been 60% Max I have tested them more than once with a flue gas analyzer and have never got more that 62% and that was a brand new furnace. Most of them test out at 55% to 60%.

HVAC_TECH 30 years
 
The benefit of the Cheap Heat system is that it is a high output electric heater unit add-on in a fire safe housing that taps into the existing ventilation system of an RV. Spot electric heaters don't give the distributed output of this system, and they are not always fire safe if run for longer periods of time. Gas furnaces run at much higher temps, causing undesired residual heating effects within the ductwork. The factory-installed Cheap Heat add on is analogous to adding an centralized air conditioning system to your residence, as opposed to using one or more portable or window air conditioning units. It creates a more comfortable/controllable environment for the end user. The cost is not much, but it does depend on where you have it installed. Just MHO.
 
No. I don't work for their company. I am just an electrical engineer that is familiar with the Cheap Heat product. I just noted that the primary advantage over spot heaters is heating efficiency and distribution. It is beats gas furnaces on price and safety. To me this aftermarket product seems relatively inexpensive, although the dealer installer might double or triple up on the total cost with their install fee.
 

westxsrt10

Perfict Senior Member
How how about a link to your solution westxsrt10. Thanks
See if this link helps //heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...r-New-Sundance?p=107247&highlight=#post107247

Basically I wired a "Line Voltage Thermostat" in series with the furnance blower, then isolated the furnance IC board with a toggle switch. The thermostat on the table leg mounted electric heater cycles on and off, the cabinet mounted line voltage stat circulates the warm air to the underbelly via the gas furnace blower.
 

JamesD

Member
My first post, you have been warned.

I'm looking for a fulltime (or close to it) 5er and find Cheapheat interesting but it seems all the supporters are new posters which makes me suspicious.

A few points here.
1. 100% efficient
Sorry, but I don't think any system will be 100% efficient. Gotta be some loss somewhere even if it's only a few %. Some energy is used on the blower for example but that is with either system. Some energy may be turned into light rather than heat. Some energy is lost just traveling through wires in the RV. Sure the loss is a small amount but 100% certainly isn't true.

2. Green claim
How is getting your heat from a coal fired power plant somewhere else and transmitting it for miles in power lines (loosing some energy along the way) greener than burning propane locally?
This ranks up there with electric cars. It might cut down on smog in a city but until the original source is "green" there is no improvement as far as greenness goes. *Someday* that may be true but for now I'd call it marketing hype.
I suppose you could run the heater from batteries and recharge them from solar panels but just how long would batteries run this?

3. The website
This screams of being a 1 or 2 man operation. I'm all for entrepreneurship, been there done that. But what happens if the heating element dies? What kind of support will you get if the company goes under? But that could be said for the entire RV industry as of late. How about some photos?


Points in favor of such a device...
1. Not having to run to get propane in the middle of the night during a snowstorm would be priceless

2. ... as would not having angry family members complaining because someone didn't properly calculate how much propane they would need, and someone got too cold the last night of a camping trip.



With the total cost of the system I'd say it would take the expected life of the coach to pay for itself as far as $$$ goes... unless you negotiate it into the original purchase at the last minute. Then the dealer might split the cost to get the sale.
Still, I'm single and will probably just keep a BlueRhino (those tanks you just swap at Wal-Mart) tank in the basement as an emergency backup for a much cheaper price.

Once some manufacturer wises up and makes heaters gas/electric at the flip of a switch it will be a great option. But as an add on that may void the furnace warranty, with no photos of the device, no company background, and the only reviews seemingly lacking in first hand experience... I'll wait and see.
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi JamesD,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and hopefully to the family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.

I am with you on the Cheapheat addon... just can't see it could be better.

Enjoy the forum.

Jim M
 

JamesD

Member
See if this link helps //heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...r-New-Sundance?p=107247&highlight=#post107247

Basically I wired a "Line Voltage Thermostat" in series with the furnance blower, then isolated the furnance IC board with a toggle switch. The thermostat on the table leg mounted electric heater cycles on and off, the cabinet mounted line voltage stat circulates the warm air to the underbelly via the gas furnace blower.

Interesting thread. I planned on insulating the storage compartment on any 5er I buy and that looks like a good way to do it. I also considered some foam as well.

As far as your thermostat mod, I was thinking about adding a 2nd thermostat just for the "basement".
The 2nd thermostat would switch on the blower at lower temperatures. Any electric heater in the RV with a thermostat would switch on as the temp drops in the RV and if it drops enough then the main furnace would kick in. I think the 2nd thermostat would be a good idea even with a Cheap Heat system.
 

lwmcguir

Well-known member
I just looked at this cheap heat and what is cheap about it? Just resistant heater as I could see. If you want cheap electric heat then you have to have a heat pump. Otherwise install any 120 volt heater or heaters like most folks already do.

Electric Resistant heating is going to cost you near $40.00 per MM BTU if not more. So what if the heat pump discharges in the ceiling. Don't you want the air warm up there to? More and more parks are going to have individual meters for the longer stays so you have to factor in the electricity may not be included.
 
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