What would be the best and safest way to raise my 2011 Cyclone 3010 4"s. I have a 2005 F250 4x4 that has a 6" lift on it. The bed rail is 5'2". The trailer height is 5'4". I've heard some horror stories about people flipping the axles on there 5th wheels so I would like to stay away from that option. Any ideas?
Safest way to lift a Cyclone?
- Thread starter David3010
- Start date
porthole
Retired
How much do you want to spend?
Talk to Ben at Mor/Ryde, Under 2500 probably, and you will end up with better suspension that is welded to the frame and have no shackles to worry about bending. The way they replace the suspension sets the height by the steel box that is welded on.
Talk to Ben at Mor/Ryde, Under 2500 probably, and you will end up with better suspension that is welded to the frame and have no shackles to worry about bending. The way they replace the suspension sets the height by the steel box that is welded on.
westxsrt10
Perfict Senior Member
I think your axles are allready flipped. I raised my RV 3" by a combination of taller tires, taller wheels, and a 1.5" block placed between the axle support bracket and the spring pack. For your setup i'd change out the box chair support on the frame with a larger longer beefed version.
jimtoo
Moderator
Hi David3010,
Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.
Be sure you check your height when you finish lifting your Cyclone. You will be getting up there.
Enjoy the forum.
Jim M
Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.
Be sure you check your height when you finish lifting your Cyclone. You will be getting up there.
Enjoy the forum.
Jim M
Ray LeTourneau
Senior Member - Past Moderator
I hate to say this but you should probably contact Lippert. Any frame modifications might affect the warranty. They should be able to advise your best course of action.
My thoughts are welding lengths of 2"X4" rectangular tubing along the length of the frame and remount the spring hangers. Then add cross braces/gussets to eliminate the possibility of side to side flex.
My thoughts are welding lengths of 2"X4" rectangular tubing along the length of the frame and remount the spring hangers. Then add cross braces/gussets to eliminate the possibility of side to side flex.
branson4020
Icantre Member
Lower the truck.
rustyshakelford
Well-known member
I think the ramp is pretty steep as it is! I wouldn't want to add another 4" to it. I agree with the others about maybe lowering the truck or switching to an air ride suspension so you could dial it in for towing, them raise it for the look or function. Check our kelderman suspension. We have it on an f550 at work and it's pretty impressive.
Brett
Brett
Thanks for the warm welcome and all the good info everyone! truk, I believe only the 3 axle cyclones have the adjustable shackles. Port, you are correct, the model I purchased sits at 12'11". I Purchased my 5th wheel on Friday and I'm going to pick it up today if Giant Rv and myself (along with the help from my new family) can figure out this hick up. I do not want to make any modifications that will void the warranty on my Cyclone. This is my first 5th wheel and I wanna make this thing last. I'm going to print out this page and run these ideas by the guys at Giant Rv. Worst case I guess I will lower my truck and consider it a lesson learned. Thanks everyone I'll keep ya posted.
jimtoo
Moderator
Hey David3010,
when you go for delivery, be sure and do a really good PDI. Make sure everything works and you can work everything. From TV to sewer dump and water connections. Check it over good and if something is wrong or does not work, get it fixed before you leave if at all possible.
Enjoy the forum and your new Cyclone.
Jim M
when you go for delivery, be sure and do a really good PDI. Make sure everything works and you can work everything. From TV to sewer dump and water connections. Check it over good and if something is wrong or does not work, get it fixed before you leave if at all possible.
Enjoy the forum and your new Cyclone.
Jim M
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
David, welcome to the HL family. As the SoCal chapter leader, I would like to invite you to our Spring Rally on April 8th and 9th in Anahiem. Here is the link for the information.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...Chapter-Rally-CA-Anaheim-4-8-2011-to-4-9-2011
Hope your PDI goes well and you have many great days of camping. As to the truck bed height, you have to very careful about the trailer to bedrail height. You need about 6" of clearance. If not you could damage the trailer and the bed rails. To me, the easiest way to repair your issue would be to lower the truck.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...Chapter-Rally-CA-Anaheim-4-8-2011-to-4-9-2011
Hope your PDI goes well and you have many great days of camping. As to the truck bed height, you have to very careful about the trailer to bedrail height. You need about 6" of clearance. If not you could damage the trailer and the bed rails. To me, the easiest way to repair your issue would be to lower the truck.
caissiel
Senior Member
I will never pull a heavy 5th wheel with a lifted truck. I let mine lower the back of my truck to create lower points for stability. I would be scared to apply to much braking in curves, because a 5th wheel pushes so high above the axle.
The lower the hitch the better the stability. Thats why I prefer F250 compared to F350 SRW setup.
Besides I see so many lifted rear that it actualy looks scrary and stupid and unpracticle.
The clearance has to be checked closely.
The lower the hitch the better the stability. Thats why I prefer F250 compared to F350 SRW setup.
Besides I see so many lifted rear that it actualy looks scrary and stupid and unpracticle.
The clearance has to be checked closely.
I too have a 6" lift on my 2006 Chevy 2500. I just had a shop add 4" box steel between the frame and shackles on my 2011 Cyclone 3010. I raised the trailer, because the front was angled too high when hitched and created low clearance at the back of the rig. The extra height added a lot of clearance in back and it is nearly level when hitched. I also had them relocate the spare tire mount closer behind the rear axle and added a second tire winch to carry a 35" spare for my truck. Now the trailer and truck spares are side by side behind the axle. This freed up a lot of space in my truck bed. While they were at it, I had them add wet bolts and repack the bearings. I'm happy with the setup and if I ever want to lower the trailer back down 4" in the future, I can just flip the axles.
I measured 13' 3" at the top of the A/C. I knew I'd be getting up there, so I downloaded many of the posted low clearances throughout the US into my Garmin Nuvi 660 as Points of Interest. I'll pay attention to my routes when traveling to unfamiliar places. For where I usually drive, the nearly level rig and added ground clearance to mount my 35" truck spare underneath was worth the extra 4" height. It tows fine and doesn't feel any different than stock height in the turns. I'll be adding shocks soon to help out.
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