Slide stuck

jayc

Texas-South Chapter Leaders
Yesterday, when getting ready to come home from an RV park, the big living room slide in my 3055 stopped about a foot before closing completely. Now it is stuck and won't go in or out. Since the dealer was closed, I had no choice but to leave the trailer at the park and will call the dealer today when they reopen.

Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas?
 

katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
It sounds like the problem I had after just getting mine. I was playing and tinkering with running the slides out manually and when I went to run them in no go. :( In the front storage compartment on the wall, theres a terminal block with the battery wires, etc with red caps covering the connections. If you look, feel, on the left side of this block there is a tiny reset button, push in and give the gal a try again. I hope this is the problem and helps. Ken
 

Cheryl

Well-known member
Do the Landmarks have this reset button and where is it? Nelson couldn't find one on either side of ours.
 

Cheryl

Well-known member
Okay, I'll admit it, Nelson was right - this time:p. The battery was just dead. Slides are in now. Still didn't find a reset button though.
 

katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
Cheryl said:
Okay, I'll admit it, Nelson was right - this time:p. The battery was just dead. Slides are in now. Still didn't find a reset button though.
Cheryl in the owners manual theres a small picture of the location of the resets. My bigHorn set up is a little different than the one in the picture, so I figured it was from those high class Landmarks.:D Hope this helps.

Ken
 

jayc

Texas-South Chapter Leaders
I never did find out where mine was. After working on it, my dealer removed the circuit breaker reset and replaced it with an oversized fuse so it wouldn't give me a problem again. There was never an explanation of whether the circuit breaker was bad or if the pump has a short in it, causing the trip. After replacing the breaker, it has worked well.

Time will tell.....
 

Pulltab

Well-known member
jayc said:
I never did find out where mine was. After working on it, my dealer removed the circuit breaker reset and replaced it with an oversized fuse so it wouldn't give me a problem again. There was never an explanation of whether the circuit breaker was bad or if the pump has a short in it, causing the trip. After replacing the breaker, it has worked well.

Time will tell.....
:eek::eek::eek: Putting a larger fuse in to keep it from not working is not an acceptable idea! I suppose the dealer will accept the responsibility when your trailer burns to the ground due to the wires melting from no fuse protection. I would contact someone at Heartland about this. The dealer gave you an unsafe fix and I think Heartland would not be happy about it. I know I would not!
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Pulltab,

Perhaps it was a good call. Using a larger fuse/breaker than what was initially spec'd is not always a bad thing. It depends on the true actual load versus the rating of the components, the wiring etc.

Take a look at this post by Mark Comer as an example.

In Mark's example, the Lippert spec'd 50 amp breaker was perfect for the initial design parameters. Then something changed. Not a short in the line or some other parasitic load but Mark's load changed due to using a stickier slide seal. This put more strain on the circuit. Lippert suggested he go larger, so he did and all is well.

Granted, the component, the wiring etc. all need to be able to carry a larger load but hopefully Lippert is aware of their circuit's capability before recommending the fix.

Jim
 

Pulltab

Well-known member
Jim, if that is the issue then Lippert should issue a recall or upgrade the breakers. Otherwise you will have someone assume that using a larger fuse is fine. Then someone burns down their rv due to something they read of a forum. Not good thinking in my opinion. There are way to many people in the world that don't understand fusing and wiring. I personally would want to see proof that the wiring and other components were capable to carry the amperage the fuse will allow. Just my personal opinion. :)
 

Cheryl

Well-known member
katkens,
Thanks. I'll have to get out our literature and take a look, just in case. I keep it all in the bottom "file cabinet" drawer.
Cheryl
 

mrcomer

Past Ohio Chapter Leaders (Founding)
Just to add to what Jim wrote, and I guess I should edit my entry that he linked to, Shad from Lippert who was the one who called his Electrical Engineer also made sure the the 6 Gage wiring that was currently in place would handle the amperage of the new breaker and the Electrical Engineer said yes. I am not an Electrical Engineer by trade therefore I do rely on experts in the field to guide me as Lippert did in this case. I most certainly would not approach this lightly as I understand that there could be repercussions from making a mistake when working on electrical issues.

That's all I have to say 'bout that.

Mark
 

Uncle Rog

Well-known member
Pulltab, I have to go with you on this one. Unless the manufacturer specifically warrants a larger fuse than original specs, to use a larger fuse would be folly, and if I was told to use a larger fuse I would assume the original engineering was flawed. That would also make me nervous.....
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Hi Pulltab,

I do agree with you in principal. Merely replacing a fuse or breaker with a larger one to cure a problem is rarely the best answer. I just wanted to point out that it "can" be done safely in some circumstances - like Mark's. No need for Lippert to do a recall for his matter. The breaker they supplied with his trailer worked fine "as designed". It was not until Mark changed his slide seals to a nice wide, really sticky material, did it create additional drag. Lippert checked their engineering and determined that everything would hold up with an 80 amp breaker. Installed - working...

Jim
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Sorry if I have contributed to getting this thread off-track from Jay's issue.

My only point was to state that it "can" be okay to upgrade a circuit's protection to a higher rating. "Can", meaning if the engineering shows that the system can handle it and of course, only when the load requires it - not just to do for the sake of doing it.

Jim
 

Pulltab

Well-known member
I understand what you meant Jim, my only concern was that someone would misinterpet the info and get themselves in trouble. I think we are all on the same page now. :)
 
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