2012 Cyclone 3010HD Mods - wishes and dones...

u243412

Active Member
Some things I did to our 3010...

- changed that table top to a swivel.
- add a wire mesh piece under the 2 propane bottles - that's where my wheel chocks now rest. (2 chocks per side)
- solar panel hooked up to the 2 - 6V's
- added bottom trim in garage above the checker plate so quads don't tear up the wall paper.
- made some skylight and bedroom window covers (velcro on/off) - I like to sleep in once and a while.
- added shelves to a couple spots in the bedroom closet. (we don't have a washer/dryer installed.
- added a cover for my gas dispenser nozzle - it gets really dirty back there.
- use my rear grey tank to store my sewer hose and elbow.
- Broom and mop holders in garage
- labeled all the stupid buttons that Heartland failed to label. Cable locations (3), Black flush connection, light switch, etc




Some things I'd like to do (or are thinking of how to do)...

- remove the hydraulic arms on the front left slam door and have it lock upright like the opposite side slam door.
- install "drag bars" around my rear electric stabilizers. I've bottomed out and dragged my spare tire a few times now.
- add those Walmart carpet pieces to the steps. But I think there's not enuff clearance when you flip up the bottom step.

Anyone care to comment if the carpet pieces from WallyMart will fit without binding on the upper step?
 

Vtxkid

Well-known member
Your mods sound great but if you had pic's to show us, we could appreciate your work more...
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
For the steps, I just bought black (dark gray) carpet runner. Cut pieces long enough to wrap and put grommets in. Secure with wire ties. Clearance is close but they work great.
Before doing the slam door mod, make sure the hinge is capable of allowing the door open far enough to engage a latch.
 

porthole

Retired
- changed that table top to a swivel.
- add a wire mesh piece under the 2 propane bottles - that's where my wheel chocks now rest. (2 chocks per side)
- use my rear grey tank to store my sewer hose and elbow.
- Broom and mop holders in garage
- labeled all the stupid buttons that Heartland failed to label. Cable locations (3), Black flush connection, light switch, etc

Some things I'd like to do (or are thinking of how to do)...

- remove the hydraulic arms on the front left slam door and have it lock upright like the opposite side slam door.
- install "drag bars" around my rear electric stabilizers. I've bottomed out and dragged my spare tire a few times now.
- add those Walmart carpet pieces to the steps. But I think there's not enuff clearance when you flip up the bottom step.

  • Your table top looks pretty good
  • I also put the chicken wire in the propane; you’d be surprised how much stuff you can store in there.
  • Rear grey tank – do you mean the holding tank?
  • I did the broom and mop thing too – then took them off
  • I pulled just about every label off. Put the holding tank labels on the frame inside the access door.

The left side door – that ram holds the door in a position that allows the bedroom slide to open with out hitting it. If the room is in or the door not open far enough you can push it up to get additional clearance

The rear stabilizers – I have thought about adding something to the rear, small wheels etc. The problem with that is you would be suspending the entire trailer between the pinbox and the rear most part of the frame, just don’t know if I am comfortable with that.

What I have done is to move the spare tire as far forward as I can on the frame. This has helped, but I am limited on how far due to the level up. To get in and out of my driveway (garage loaded) I now use two 2x8x8 boards to drive up on.

Note on the spare tire – you should pull yours down and check the mount. The winch has slots for 5/16” bolts. It is held onto the frame with ¼” bolts and no flat washers. Mine was just about pulled through when I moved spare tire frame forward.
I also hit the rear Level Up pads on my driveway, but they seem to only “slide” for a moment.
 
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gpshemi

Well-known member
- install "drag bars" around my rear electric stabilizers. I've bottomed out and dragged my spare tire a few times now.

I bought another crank and turned mine into a double spare holder, then moved it to just in front of the axles. Works better than drag bars.
 

u243412

Active Member
I would (shoulda) take pictures but the rig is in storage right now - till our next trip. This is also why I can't work on some of my mods.

- yes - I meant the Rear Grey tank door compartment area. I think my hose is now 15 feet long with an elbow on the end of it. Fits in just perfect.
- There is a lot of room under/around the propane tanks. It's a great spot for something like chocks that might be dirty or can get dirty wet when travelling down a road.
- if anyone wants, I did post pix of my 3010HD Kidney Shaped Table Mod in this section. Take a look there to see the table and how it turns.
- I painted a white strip on my king pin latch -so I know when my hitch is open (or closed). I got the idea from here. I double check, but it's really easy to see when it's closed.
- I never thought about the part where the compartment door opens up and the slideout is there. doh. I'm usually in there when the slide is in. Oh well.


Rear Drag bars... I haven't had a problem with ashphalt - but some of the roads we travel down are gravel and have big dips. The pads might not slide on the dirt/gravel as well as the pavent. Friends have ripped off their rear stabilizer bars - so I'm trying to be proactive before that happens to me.
Maybe a combination of dropping the 5th wheel hitch by one notch (which I had to do anyway - to leve things out), short drag bars around my rear stabilizer motors so they don't rip off and what about some kinda "Krazy Karpet" slider/protector Tin or Alum plate on the spare tire - so if I do drag, then it's dragging on the Alum tire cover rather than the tire/rim? It would be better if I had 2 spare with covers on them if the back end did drag.
 

u243412

Active Member
I got one side of my drag bars done.
I used a industrial pipe hanger, and a couple spacers.
It hangs low enuff that the rear stabilizer bars won't break off - but mainly - I wanted it to save the motor from being ripped off.
I think it turned out good. Cost for me - Zero bucks.
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gpshemi

Well-known member
My plan it to take out that 4" riser instead and move the whole thing forward as far as the wiring will allow (~8").

It's a nice execution, but I think it's going to fold up like an old map under the force.
 

u243412

Active Member
Step covers - I might get them. I should get a couple mud flaps and install them behind the last axle so there isn't as much mud that cakes onto the garage steps. I did put on some reflective tape on the stairs so you can see the stairs in the dark. We use 2 solar powered spot lights that shine on our trailer at night. (easier to see when you stumble back for another pop)

Light switch - I put a white reflective sticker around the main living room light switch. I could never really see which switch it was when it was dark inside the trailer. Hopefully, I'll just smash my fingers around the white tape and lights should appear.

TV - I moved the mount higher and straightened out the TV. (now it's level) I also installed a 300W inverter off that 12V cig plug by the stereo. BTW - I just figured out that I can run an IPod or ITouch thru that plug on the Jensen Stereo. As well, I don't like how the 32" TV just 'sits' in a hole in the wall. If I could match it, I'd put some nice trim around where the TV sits. I did buy a 19" TV for the bedroom. Brand new out of another trailer - for 100 bux. (c/w HDMI cable and wall mount) I also installed my Starchoice Sat reciever in the basement.

Sliding doors - just noticed that I can get the sliding patio door to open almost 2 more inches if I remove those 2 little rubber stoppers. (I'll reinstall a 1/2" stopper)
 

u243412

Active Member
Another nice to do - was to have hangers for keys just inside the door, at ground level beside the fire extinguisher. Easy access.

Another minor change - I installed the holder on the shower nozzle upside down - so now the shower head only tilts down so far - instead of haning straight down. Now my other issue is that the shower nozzle still slides down the rail. It doesn't seem to have much grip on that silver bar to stay up high. (I'll have to do a search on that)

As well, I needed more tie down areas in the garage.
I found E-Track and D-rings at Princess Auto for real cheap so I installed a few on the floor. The D-rings are rated at 3000lbs and the track is screwed into the 1" flooring. (D-rings are moveable)
Pic's below...

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jasons09cyclone

Well-known member
I had a problem with scrapping the rear spare tire and eventually lost the spare somewhere, Eather it fell off or was borrowed and never returned.. So I placed the tire above the spare rack.. The tire fits between the floor and the crossmember so you can't even see it from the side view.. I just secured it with a cable a lock system so it will not fall this time...
 

Vtxkid

Well-known member
Some things I did to our 3010...

- remove the hydraulic arms on the front left slam door and have it lock upright like the opposite side slam door.

The purpose of the hydraulic arms is to maintain the DS basement door open with the front bedroom slide is open... If you removed these arms and clip your door as the ODS is then it might not be pretty when you go to open the slides some day and forgot the door is cliped open...
 

u243412

Active Member
Here is a picture I took of the stabilizer bars I bought off EBAY. Easy to install, work well - as they travel up and down with the front legs.
I forget the price, but they work pretty well.

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u243412

Active Member
Here is a picture of the LED bulbs I put in. ($5.80 each online)
I think I needed about 26 LED's for the 3010. (I only bought 20 bulbs)
Our rig has the option of selecting either 1 or 2 bulbs when the light switch is turned on. So for some lights, I only installed one LED in the light.

Pretty happy with the lighting. Online people who've done same switch out are claiming you can run 21 of this LED bulbs for the price of one regular bulb.
Now I can live in piece w/o worrying about kids and wife leaving the lights on while boondocking. lol
 

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u243412

Active Member
Here are some pictures of my new motorcycle wheel chock bracket.
It might be tough to understand, but....

I took a piece of U channel, cut 3 holes in it where the 3 Cyclone hold downs are.
The 3 hold downs come up threw the U channel.
I then have 2 Princess Auto Wheel Chokes, bolted onto a black 2x4, which the 2x4 is screwed into the U channel.

The bike rest nicely in the wheel chock.
The tie downs ratchet straps pull the bike forward and down, while the U channel is pushed against the 3 Cyclone hold downs so the bike/chock can't go forward or backwards.

It's low profile, and temporary - and was free and easy to build.

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u243412

Active Member
And while I'm posting stuff...

I painted a big screw black and drilled/screwed it into my truck box bed rail.
Tie strap around the breakaway cable and tighten it up onto the big screw.

Great attachment point - some guys put the break away strap on the handle of the 5th wheel hitch, but I think this is a better safer option.






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rick_debbie_gallant

Well-known member
Here is a picture of the LED bulbs I put in. ($5.80 each online)
I think I needed about 26 LED's for the 3010. (I only bought 20 bulbs)
Our rig has the option of selecting either 1 or 2 bulbs when the light switch is turned on. So for some lights, I only installed one LED in the light.

Pretty happy with the lighting. Online people who've done same switch out are claiming you can run 21 of this LED bulbs for the price of one regular bulb.
Now I can live in piece w/o worrying about kids and wife leaving the lights on while boondocking. lol

Where did you find your bulbs for under 6 bucks?
 
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