ATF: Cyclone - Winterizing/Water Heater By-pass

Typically I utilize my air compressor to blow down the water system to prevent freezing. I drained the water heater, ensured all faucets, toilets, shower, and low point drains were void of any water. After having done so, I decided take the precaution of sending RV antifeeze through the system. Following the instructions located inside the cargo door of my 3800, I turned the water heater by-pass valve to what I assumed was the closed position. I then proceeded to pump 2 gallons of RV antifreeze via the siphen tube in the Central Docking Station into the water system. Every drop went into the water heater. Am I missing something here? Is there another valve somwhere that needs to be closed? On our previous RV the W/H had 3 valves. 2 needed to be closed and the third opended.

I was just under the kitchen sink on Saturday to fix a PEX clamp leak. Mine's a 2011 3812 but suspect it's similar to your new 3800. I noted a pretty obvious set of 3 valves which allow isolating and bypassing the water heater.
You may want a more authoritative answer from the factory but this is something you can look at while waiting. Note, I had to remove a couple of small wood panels that screw into the 'floor' of the under-sink space.

TwoGypsies said:

I was just under the kitchen sink on Saturday to fix a PEX clamp leak. Mine's a 2011 3812 but suspect it's similar to your new 3800. I noted a pretty obvious set of 3 valves which allow isolating and bypassing the water heater.
You may want a more authoritative answer from the factory but this is something you can look at while waiting. Note, I had to remove a couple of small wood panels that screw into the 'floor' of the under-sink space.

Click to expand...

Sounds similar to the DIY bypass kits they sell (put one on our previous TT). One valve each at the hot outlet and cold inlet, and the third between them to open/close the bypass line.

CabinetmakerII said:

... Following the instructions located inside the cargo door of my 3800, I turned the water heater by-pass valve to what I assumed was the closed position.

Click to expand...

I think the valve you turned to "Winterize" is the one used to re-direct the water pump's input from the tank (NORMAL) to your anti-freeze bottle (WINTERIZE). You first have to close the aforementioned hot and cold valves on the back of the water heater and then open the the third "bypass valve". Not to worry, we've all been there. Just ensure you clean out the water heater.

If you have a bad check valve on the water heater like I did the antifreeze will run through the water heater. This check valve screws right into the back of the water heater and then the hose screws back on to it. The first time I winterized I had the plug out of the water heater and the antifreeze just poured out as I pumped it through. After changing the check valve everything works like it is supposed to. Tom M.

There are three valves, two you close, cold water in-hot water out.
And the valve between the top and bottom hoses is opened.
Pull the anode to drain the heater and it wouldnt hurt to rinse out the heater through the anode bung.

I thought it sounded like Cab had the same kind of simple water heater bypass that I have in the Bighorn where you just switch the handle marked water heater bypass. If you do that and water or antifreeze continues to flow out of the W.H. then it sounds like a bad check valve on the water heater. I didn't know there were a series of valves that need opening and closing. I guess I'm just lucky that the Bighorn is set up so simple.