ATF: Road Warrior - garage heat

i would like to enjoy my 305 late into the season, so i was glad to see that it had a heat duct in there. well first time out the kids were chilly back there so i cranked the heat, and we had air flow no heat. i blocked all the other registers in the rig since it was 90 deg every where but the garage. still no warm air in the garage. outside temp only low 50's. i brought the rig in to fix the 30 or so issues with the trailer, they denied the warranty work for the heat. the warranty rep at heartland Mr. Steve Kenne apparently told my dealer that it is how it is designed there wont be much heat in the garage. i told my dealer about the other owners that have added their own heat ducts using 4" instead of the 2" that the factory used with good results. the dealer said they cant do anything since the factory declined the claim. So why put a duct there if it isn't designed to blow hot air? I guess i will have to do it right on my own unless i can get the factory to change their mind. i mean i only spent almost 60k on a camper why would i expect it to be built or engineered properly. if i built the aircraft that i work on the way they build these campers we would have smoking holes in the ground.

RANT OVER

I'm with you on this as I know a lot of others Heartland toy hauler owners are. I have looked into it also but being a 2" line which is snaked in and out all the way from the furance to the vent, it's understandable why it doesn't do much for the garage. I have a ceramic temp controlled heater that I use in the garage when necessary. Shouldn't have to be that way but its a easy resolution to a otherwise complicated fix.

i know that some other owners have added a 4" duct on older models and have achieved good heat i think doing a 4" duct like the others would improve the heat. if it proves effective than they could do a design change for little or no cost on future models. i showed my dealer the mod that others have done here on the forum, and they said easy fix, however the factory wont let them under warranty. the answer by Mr. Steve Kenne is that the duct isn't designed to heat the garage, then why put it there if you know it wont work??? i will call the customer support line and maybe get some where tomorrow.

JJ, the 2" line would probably work ...IF.. it was a insulated hose. From where the heater is to the rear of the coach is probably a LONG run. By the time the hot air travels thru the hose all the HEAT is lost. Most heating places probably have the hose in bulk that you can buy. You might even look a Lowes or HD. A bigger hose will give you more air flow but wont help with the heat loss unless the hose is insulated.

I have the same problem. Does the 2" hose run behind the fridge & then below the rig? Can this hose be seen if the underbelly is removed? Also, Bob, what type of insulated hose should i look for? Sorry for the questions, but i'm a gear head not a handyman. But i'm learning.

Thanks,
Ivan

Ivan, yes the hose should run thru the underbelly. Well I think it would anyway. Pull up the register and see what kind of ducting is in there. If its the rectangular cardboard stuff, then you would have to take a different approach to fix the issue. If it is the 2" round ducting, you should be able to get it at Lowes, HD or any heating and A/C repair store. The ducting has an inner and outer covering with insulation in between. Its what they use in sticks and bricks.

Bob

Your on spot with that analysis. the 2" hose runs most of it's travel under the coach then up through the floor just ahead of the wall where the register is. The members that have run their own duct have most of it inside the coach behind the kitchen cabinets. I talked to the factory warranty rep and he is going to take it to engineering to see if they can change it. I know i can do the work myself, but it would be nice if the factory would make it right, not just for me but for future owners if they change the design.

JJ

We find it cheaper and easier to use an electric space heater. The furnace will blow thru the propane and currently doesn't even work while on shore power or using the genny.

Brett

What does this 2" hose look like?
Does it look like the picture below?

The 2" round ducting in my RV is grey, single wall and not insulated... It travels from the furnace, underneath to the underbelly, up in the cavity under the stove and then behind the drawer underneath the frig, to the garage wall vent. After all that, you can hardly feel anything come out of it!!!

Duane, yes, that be the stuff I was refering to.

Bob, that particular hose pictured is from my Unico HVAC in my attic.
Don't see how it would work efficiently in our applications as it is designed for "high pressure" HVAC. Would make adding heat easier if the furnace is capable of pushing air through it.

Duane, I think that the fan will push air through it. When I did the underbelly up grade and added and cut slits in the ducting....the air flow will now will blow up your "kilt" if you stand over a heater vent. I do believe that the way HL and maybe all RV manufacturers build in restrictions to slow air flow. It seems the more places air can escape the more the pressure. Dont ask how it works....but it does. Maybe "volumnmetric efficency" has something to do with it. I added 30' of 2" duct in the underbelly and cut slits every 6" and the air flow almost doubled. Go figure. We also have a warm floor when the heater is on.