Porch Light Out

berky · May 27, 2012

The "porch" light, the exterior light at the entry door steps, is out. I have 12 V at the switch, but no continuity from the switch to ground. Does anybody know how to open up one of those exterior lights. It's an oval-shaped light, the same as what I have for the hitch light up front.

I can't get to the light from the inside. It looks to me like I have to cut away the caulking and hope to find some screws underneath, unless someone can tell me otherwise.

cookie · May 27, 2012

I don't know what kind of oval light you have on your NT but every other one I have seen the lens pops off.
Can you post a picture of it?
At the switch you should have 12 volts. You should not have continuity to ground.

Peace
Dave

JohnDar · May 27, 2012

I believe that's a 12V 1141 automotive style bulb, which burn out more frequently than I change my underwear. Same kind as the interior lights. As Dave said, you should be able to pop the lens off by squeezing it or prying it near one of the tab slots. Try that before removing the entire mounting.

But, do yourself a favor and order a motion sensor unit with a LED bulb and replace the whole thing. Brighter and more secure.

berky · May 28, 2012

Right you are guys. A closer look in broad daylight and I could see the lens' retaining tabs. A skinny screwdriver popped it right open.

Alas the bulb is good. So 12 V at the switch and nothing at the lamp makes me suspect a bad connection between the two. I'm guessing the light fixture came from the factory with pigtails, and now a splice to one of the pigtails has let go. So for now I've pushed this one lower on the priority list and will pull the fixture later. The dying household clothes dryer has just become a higher priority. Imagine that.

wildwolfproducts · Jul 6, 2012

JohnDar said:
I believe that's a 12V 1141 automotive style bulb, which burn out more frequently than I change my underwear. Same kind as the interior lights. As Dave said, you should be able to pop the lens off by squeezing it or prying it near one of the tab slots. Try that before removing the entire mounting.

But, do yourself a favor and order a motion sensor unit with a LED bulb and replace the whole thing. Brighter and more secure.

Do you have any numbers for the light you used? Also my light over the door has not worked, the Amber one up near the awning. That or I have not found the right switch for it.

Pete

JohnDar · Jul 6, 2012

wildwolfproducts said:
Do you have any numbers for the light you used? Also my light over the door has not worked, the Amber one up near the awning. That or I have not found the right switch for it.

Pete

I used the Smart Light 1000 to replace the one you're talking about. AST.com had a better price than StarLight.

http://www.alpinesandtoys.com/12VoltMotionSensingPorchSmartLightWithLEDBulbUTV-6175

As I recall, the OEM light is wired in using a couple of crimp connectors. If all you want to do is get it to work, you'll have to remove the thing from the wall and check them. You can't get to them otherwise.

wildwolfproducts · Jul 8, 2012

Thanks will check it out this coming week. Temps are going to be 20 to 25 degrees cooler. Sure bed nice to see highs lower then 101. Our best so far in West Tn 115.
Pete

zigzag3337 · Jul 14, 2012

I had a problem with a couple of the connections getting hot and coming loose behind my panel due to poor crimping at the factory. Pull the panel off, check the line voltage on the switch to ground and see if you have 12 volts. If so, then check the load side of the switch to ground. Operate the switch on and off to make sure the switch is okay. If it is, and you are 100% sure you don't have power at the light using a meter, then it's time to start pulling wire to see where the bad connection is.

berky · Jul 16, 2012

zigzag3337 said:
I had a problem with a couple of the connections getting hot and coming loose behind my panel due to poor crimping at the factory. Pull the panel off, check the line voltage on the switch to ground and see if you have 12 volts. If so, then check the load side of the switch to ground. Operate the switch on and off to make sure the switch is okay. If it is, and you are 100% sure you don't have power at the light using a meter, then it's time to start pulling wire to see where the bad connection is.

That's pretty much what I figured.

I measured 12V before and after the switch. I popped the lens and tested the bulb in another location ... tested good. Checked for 12V at the socket .... no joy. Looked at the wires leaving the switch .... they disappeared up into the wall. I figured the only thing left was a crimp connector between the switch and the socket.

At that point I just heaved a big sigh and moved on to more pressing matters. I'll save it up for my next project days on Labor Day weekend. Beats fighting the crowds on the roads.

ksroll · Jul 16, 2012

I had the same issue with the porch light. It was because at the factory the had to many wires in one twist on cap behind the light switch. The light switch wire came out of the twist on cap.

Porch Light Out

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